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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    I see that it has been awhile since my last Speedwell update. Here are some current photos. David Antscherl (of Greenwich barge fame) and I are currently working with SeaWatch books on a book featuring her construction in both plank on frame and plank on bulkhead versions. She's a sweet little vessel and will be fully rigged. At 1:48 scale she won't take up a lot of space in my study. The fore platform with the boatswain's cabin and sail room. There is a properly tagged and stowed sail on the lower sail rack but it is no longer visible. The well sitting beneath the main mast partner with it's two octagonal pump openings. there is a small cleanout door at the bottom of the well. I made a jig to shape the round-ups of the various deck elements. Basically, I have connected several properly shaped deck beams (laser cut by Chuck) with planks on the convex and concave surfaces. I then affixed 150 grit garnet paper with rubber cement. Adding the round-up is then a simple matter of moving the piece up and down the paper. i use a small plank to keep the pull straight. You know when you are done as the dust spreads entirely across the paper above and below and the bottom of your thumb is raw. The upper deck back to the aft platform has been framed. It is a fairly tedious job adding each new beam with it's lodging knees, hanging knees, carlings, ledges and bolts. Depending on the amount of deck planking one plans to add, some of these elements could be omitted. I plan on adding very little deck planking so most of it will be visible. In the final photo, the capstan upper and lower partners have been added. Speedwell's capstan is a bit curious as it is designed to be raised and lowered. It seats on a removable spindle cup on the lower partner. Neither David and I have any idea why it was designed this way. That's it for now. Next will be the framing of the aft platform and quarterdeck.
  2. dvm27
    Great video, Kevin. Well done on the challenging bollard cross-chock. Took me a couple of times too. I'm impressed by your ability to understand and fix discrepancies as they occur. As you have identified, it is very difficult to set a cant frame in three different planes. It is imperative that the aft part of the heel aligns vertically with the plan on the board. If not, you will get creeping error that will show up in an ugly way a few frames down the road. When setting cants or other frames I use a ply-90 degree jig to insure verticality and a steel machinists square to insure the half-breath location while the glue is setting. You can simulate the chock joints on the outside of the frame with an exacto knife if you like. I'd also strongly recommend PVA glue due to it's ability to be debonded. I used almost two bottles on my first POF model! Keep those videos coming. It's something I wished I had done while building my Swan prototype.
  3. dvm27
    The transom support piece is a very nice addition to the building board. Should make installing those pesky transom timbers a breeze.
  4. dvm27
    If there's dust in the photo it must be scale dust because I can't see it. Could you please share how you came to be a professional ship model maker with TAMU? Did you make model airplanes and ships as a kid? How'd you get to be so damned good? Enquiring minds want to know!
  5. dvm27
    You are one talented SOB to turn that boxwood ring into the mast coat you've shown..without a lathe. My hat's off to you.
  6. dvm27
    Great start Tim. Stern deadwood looks spot on and the tabled boxing joint is seldom seen on models. Is your keel and rising wood milled from one piece? If so, I don't believe I've seen that approach before.
  7. dvm27
    Great work, Gary. I'be be conservative with fairing the fore face of the foremost aft cant and aft face of the last fore cant until the first full frames are test fitted. For some reason this transition has caused me problems on a couple of plank on frame models.
  8. dvm27
    Nice work, Frank. Who makes that razor saw? It appears to have teeth on each side.
  9. dvm27
    That's beautiful work, Ryland!
  10. dvm27
    A beautiful model accompanied by beautiful photography. What more could we lurkers ask for? Looking forward to your next build.
  11. dvm27
    Now you're just showing off Druxey! Gorgeous work.
  12. dvm27
    The sheer excellence of your woodwork and metal work makes this one of the most enjoyable logs on MSW. It looks like this could be a working model with the proper engine.
  13. dvm27
    I am enjoying your build Vitaly. It looks like you are using the methods developed by Dr. Mike and featured on his video. Is this correct?
  14. dvm27
    Now she looks like a ship, Mike. The next huge reveal when you cut the frame extensions and free her from the jig but wait as long as possible to do this. Have fun with that internal fairing. I foresee some bloody knuckles!
  15. dvm27
    Don't feel guilty, Glen. I have been using simulated nuts from Scale Hardware http://www.scalehardware.com/simulated-micro-hardware-c-47. You can't fake it any better than this.
  16. dvm27
    Those gentle sweeping curves are poetry. Michael.
  17. dvm27
    Looks terrific, Toni. I also notice in the last photo that you have hung some hammocks between the battens. Must have missed them before but they look really good.
  18. dvm27
    Wonderful Giampiero. You rarely see the rudder coat included on models. I suspect that fitting and nailing it over the tiller opening is not easy!
  19. dvm27
    They look great, Chuck. I think one of the hardest things to do is create realistic looking rope, along with it's natural tendency to drape properly. It's most likely a scaling issue I believe. Oddly enough, it seems in order to achieve a realistic catenary, like the gentle drooping of the stays, a wire core seems to work best (at small scales). Many of the models in Annapolis show this graceful catenary but most of them were rigged with silk, a material which naturally drapes over time.
  20. dvm27
    Doc, check out the document by David Antscherl on our website "Tips" page, bottom. http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Tips.html While I can't provide a PE sheet at that scale it does explain the basics of lantern construction.
  21. dvm27
    We can't help it Druxey. We have cabin fever after a long winter!
  22. dvm27
    Your weathered wreck is truly fine craftsmanship, Glen. It's so convincing it's hard to believe it's not the real ship.
  23. dvm27
    Splendid work, Marsalv.! I usually fit the hanging knees after the beams are installed but I may rethink that after seeing your photos.
  24. dvm27
    She's already a gem, Druxey. We all wait with anticipation for your next update.
  25. dvm27
    Neat as a pin, Chuck! I'm sure you've researched it, but the bright trucks look a bit jarring next to the painted carriages. Is this artistic license or have you seen similar carriages on other models?

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