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Mike Y

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Everything posted by Mike Y

  1. Mike Y
    Brian, it is 55cm (21.6in). Good size if you do not have a workshop. Grant, yes, I believe that mutual respect to hobbies of each other is a mandatory condition to achieve a harmony at home
  2. Mike Y
    Yes, I bought a compact vacuum cleaner to remove the sawdust quickly. Hope it will help
  3. Mike Y
    Finally finished most of the renovation works in the apartment, and here is my modelling corner! All the tools are in a large drawer, only most popular ones are stored in the table itself. The band saw is hidden under the table, it would be rarely used. The drawing is a Cromwell plan from NMM, but it is purely for decoration - Hahn plans are much more detailed. Since my wife occupied another corner for her knitting stuff, it is a time to rename the "living room" into a "hobby room". But hey, isn't hobby a big part of our life? (Yep, I know that furniture is quite not in same style, will slowly fix that over time) So now I can finally start cutting the frame blanks! Finally! Time to make a first bucket of sawdust
  4. Mike Y
    Divarty, congratulations with a decision to redo the planking, I thnk that model is perfectly suitable for it. Have you considered a boxwood package from Hobbymill? A bit more expensive, but worth every penny. Planking with boxwood is such a pleasure comparing to basswood. I planked two models - Pinnace with bass, and Longboat with box - the difference is very big, boxwood planking is easier, more stable, etc. And just a mere fact that after initial sanding basswood planks from the kit are like twice thinner than boxwood ones from hobbymill. It means a lot! You can compare the photos in my logs (see links in the signature). Longboat planked with box is not sanded yet, and already looks much better than basswood after sanding! But beware: when you will try a booxwood package for longboat, you will never go back to inferior wood, and will end up paying quite a lot for a good one!
  5. Mike Y
    Congrats! One of the finest longboats, and a really nice and elegant stand!
  6. Mike Y
    Used Lego blocks for small models (like Pinnace and Longboat), they are amazing - square, perfectly aligned, and very flexible to adjust for different parts of the hull. For example - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6801-18th-century-longboat-by-mike-y-model-shipways-148/page-2#entry201485
  7. Mike Y
    Thanks a lot for the review! Ordered a copy
  8. Mike Y
    Gaetan, thanks! Could you please point me to a right discussion than? I honestly searched by "light" or "lamp" keyword in that forum before creating a new topic..
  9. Mike Y
    Gaetan, pardon for an amateur questions, but I though that lux is simply a brightness. And brighter != better, it would be painful for the eyes to work under a very bright light. There should be just enough brightness Or I'm totally missing the point? Since looks like you know better, could you please share your knowledge?
  10. Mike Y
    Thanks everybody for suggestions! Ordered this daylight lamp: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Daylight-Black-D33041-Energy-Saving/dp/B002XVPQP8 According to reviews, at least it's not bad People do mention that it's not flickering, no headache or eye tiredness. Will post a feedback when I receive it.
  11. Mike Y
    Jud, you are right, it is a dark corner table Other setups will take too much space in a living room. And I can't afford an apartment with a dedicated hobby room. One day kid will grow up and move away... So the idea is to light that cave with a good lamp. Found some brand daylight, they say right things, but the website looks too much like a marketing blah blah. Gut feeling that they could just repackage some chinese lamps in a nice box.. Or I'm wrong? http://uk.daylightcompany.com/product/n1190/
  12. Mike Y
    Magnifier with integrated light is a different story. I will buy it separately it gives a spot light, and I am looking for a good background light, that will keep entire working area bright enough
  13. Mike Y
    So conceptually I am looking for a bare lamp like this: It would be mounted on top of that table, under the place where Pinnace stands on that photo: Unfortunately most of such lamps are designed for kitchen and have a terrible light quality. And if you search for a separate light bulb to make this lamp by yourself - there are gazillion of different technologies
  14. Mike Y
    Making a modelling corner in a new apartment, and want to do a proper light on my modelling table. No need for a table lamp, no mounts or clamps, I will integrate the lamp into the top part of a table itself. My table is in the living room, so the room is already light. However, need a guidance in what kind of a lamps are preferred.. * No high frequency flickering like in a cheap fluorescent lamps. Lamp should not make eyes tired * Not too bright * Neutral spectrum and colour palette, when I look on a wood or paint, I want to see a real colour, without effects of the lighting Basically, it should be a pleasure for eyes and it should not skew the colours. Price range - I hope to be below $150. Would really appreciate any hints, what type of a lamp to use. I saw some professional jewellery lamps, but they are around $400, which is too expensive.
  15. Mike Y
    Ok, so I just realized that all these photos were a macro, and model is much smaller then I though! Wow!
  16. Mike Y
    Modelling is temporarily on pause - was busy buying and moving into a new apartment. Now busy renovating it Used modelling tools to make a balcony, does it count? Next on a list - make a modelling table, so I can start my build!
  17. Mike Y
    Yes, it looks nice separately, but it definitely do not belong to the light Longboat Will think of something lighter.
  18. Mike Y
    Speaking of a fully framed models - a friend of mine visited an interesting project today - 1:1 reconstruction of Poltava, 1712 ship, partially designed by Russian tsar, Peter I, who studied shipbuilding in Holland. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_ship_of_the_line_Poltava_(1712) The site is located in St.Petersburg, Russia. Pretty interesting to see, looks very close to that build logs, and nearly-round shape of the hull make it look like Triton
  19. Mike Y
    Dave, I wanted to build a fully framed model, and there are quite a few kits offering this. Basically, POF kits in a good wood - none. Only sets of timber + plans, like Admirality models / HobbyMill or Lumberyard. And I like the challenge of blueprint interpretation Hahn jig is documented in some logs here (like Licorne by mtaylor), or here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/HahnMethodnew.pdf You build the hull upside down, and jig helps to align frames properly and space them evenly.
  20. Mike Y
    Just finished catching up with your log - incredible level of detail on such a small scale! Just... Wow!
  21. Mike Y
    Time for an epic fail! I had an idea to plank sheer strake in a anchor stock pattern, like the one I saw in Anatomy of Pandora book. So I took a sheet of wood a bit thicker then regular planks, cut lots of pieces on a band saw: Glued them together to shape all at the same time: Then shaped them with files, knife and chisels until I managed to make a nice joints... Glued shaped patterns on a paper strip to see how it will look like... (Ignore small gaps, final fine fitting would be done while gluing. Dots are just marks for treenails, there would be a real treenails later.) And it looks ugly - too heavy for a light model of that size. Hope that experiment will give you a good laughs So I wrote it down like a scarf carving exercise, and need to think again how to make a sheer strake. Still don't want friezes. Probably just plank as usual and add some light moulding? Any ideas are welcome, even the crazy ones!
  22. Mike Y
    I have one, can mail it to you.. Where you are on a globe? P.S.: but frankly, that booklet is quite useless, better use build logs here as an instruction. It is full of self-explanatory steps like "now plank the hull".
  23. Mike Y
    There is no kit for that ship (and there are not so many POF kits out there). This is a timbering set - plans, required amount of wood milled to a proper thickness, and some laser cut parts (Hahn jig, keel, some small parts). There are also no instructions, only plans. I have Hahn's book, but most "instructions" are build logs on that forum. See http://www.dlumberyard.com/shipkits.html Scroll/band saw is a must for that build, lots of frames to cut from that wood! You can also look on Licorne build as a good example of Hahn's method. Or Triton build (there is a sub-forum for it). Or just any other POF scratch build. It is not a 100% scratch because you skip the step of preparing 3d model of a hull based on old plans, and you already have a proper amount of wood in a sizes that you need. But that deviation is acceptable on that forum
  24. Mike Y
    Udo, the laser cut parts look pretty good from a first glance. Let's see how they will fit together I can send you some more detailed photos if you need.
  25. Mike Y
    Things will slow down a bit, because I got a new and a looooong project - Oliver Cromwell - 1:48, POF, Hahn / Lumberyard However, I will do longboat in parallel - especially since I have a lot of frames to produce, so when I would be bored - Longboat would be very useful to switch

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