augie
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Everything posted by augie
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I didn't order it for the floor!!!! I have a different idea for that. The big problem now is ---- what am I going to blame my horrible finishes on??? The crummy wood is 'off the table'- 2,191 replies
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I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by the lack of brush strokes with that acrylic. Just don't panic when the first coat dries --- it will look horrible. Things come together after a few coats. Also, it's always a good idea to practice your proposed finishing technique on a scrap piece of identical wood before you decide on the final sequence for the ship. This is also true with stain. Now go have fun!!!!
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No progress to report. BUT -- I did receive my order from Jeff at HobbyMill. It came in early, nicely packaged. And I must say that I'm impressed at the quality of both the wood and the milling. Never realized that all the pieces in a given package are supposed to be the same dimensions Great stuff and service. THANK YOU, JEFF !
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Take a look at Rogers Syren log. His is unpainted and it's gorgeous. But keep in mind that it is 1:32 scale and that he has used some exotic woods in his build. As for that question concerning painting, I use brushes only and acrylic paints, diluted....so it takes many coats.
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Planking looks to be coming along well. Let me express my appreciation of your efforts to get the coloring you want. I'm sure it will be terrific.
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Simply great photos. Thanks for taking the time to share them with us. GREAT to see you back in the shipyard.
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WOW..... Lt. Commander. CONGRATS! But I think there's a move afoot to change that to Windbag JG
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Nice to see you back at it. Winter should prove productive for many of us!
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HMS Victory by JPett - Corel - 1:98
augie replied to JPett's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Erik's comments tell us you can proceed and nothing will jump out and bite you in 6 months. MSW works! -
Sweet! You're getting to the point where you almost need to stand across the street to get her all in one photo.
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I don't know how you do it Mobbsie. Such high quality work at breakneck speed. Amazing ---- and a pleasure to watch. I'm looking forward to the ship's boats. And your promotion As for Sjors method, I believe partial credit also goes to Pythagoras. No big deal.
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There's the 'p' word
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Nice to see her back on course.
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BEN- yup, thanks to you (and indirectly Rusty), put in some support up there. Think I'll play with the beakhead planking before I hit the gunports. Got a couple of days of 'real life' rearing it's ugly head coming up.
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VERY nice.....thanks Andy. Will put this in my 'play book' for next time around. Best of luck on the timing for your upcoming 'shift'.
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Coming from our resident expert (real) sailor, I shall heed this advice. Look out below
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But wait.....I thought those were up in the head on a ship of this rate?
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Syren Hull Assembly
augie replied to Charley54's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hello Charley! Always best to do your thinking before you grab the glue or sandpaper. I built Syren but still had to go down and dig out the instructions before I sent you a reply. Chuck has had the bulkheads pre-marked with approximate fairing or bevel lines scribed on one face. He instructs to remove some of that material prior to fairing the hull. That's a good idea. Then it does get, at least to me, a little murky when it is suggested to temporarily fit the bulkheads to the former and do the actual fairing. To me, that wasn't where I wanted to go. So after the off-ship pre-trimming of the bulkheads, I squared them up and glued them in. Then glued in the filler blocks making sure the bulkhead former was dead straight. Then I went to the typical fairing, checking all along with some planks to see the run of things. It's the only way I could think of to make sure everything was true. That's my experience, hope it helps. Take you time on the fairing. Things depend on it later. -
Thanks everyone for your continued interest. Taking a day or 2 mental break to prepare for the next phase. Sorry SJORS, might be a few days before planking starts . Ferit's question is interesting. But the answer is simple ....... never even thought of using nails ! I'll keep that technique in my armamentarium for possible future use. One does need to be careful with the weight/epoxy technique to assure everything is sitting right or it can burn you. Weight or clamp carefully and check 3 times before you walk away. This is the reason I used 6 minute epoxy ---- I have 10, 30 and 120 minute epoxies sitting right on the bench. But with 6 minute you need to work quickly, get it set right, get some weights on in appropriate places and then use your fingers as weights to be absolutely sure. Then stand still for 10 minutes and you're done. If anything is wrong, grab the isopropyl alcohol. Please keep in mind I've used this technique to plank airplane wings with 1/64 to 3/32 balsa wood for years so I'm used to it. Clamps and PVA are a much safer way to go on a ship. Bob- 'ease' is not in the dictionary out here. TRUST ME :)
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HMS Victory by JPett - Corel - 1:98
augie replied to JPett's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
I'm delighted the heat treating worked. Not so sure what's going on with the 'discrepancy' between those 2 bulkheads. Obviously the slots need to be tweaked to get them to mate, but that bottom overhang on 16 is strange. Sure there's no 'false keel' to be attached to 15? -
Yes, I'd like to see how you do those as well.
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Chapter 3 has been completed. I mentioned previously that the last bit on the stern was the addition of a few fillers. This turned out to be an exercise in Olympic-level Freestyle Sanding...but I think the fairing came out OK. So here's one last pic of the stern framing (I promise): Yes, JP, the pencil sander came in handy again. I'm sure both Proxxon and this Microlux are both worthwhile. And that brings us to the false deck. It is 1/32 ply, laser cut and supplied in 4 pieces: Amazingly, the 4 parts slipped right in without any sanding whatsoever. I laid them in one at a time being careful to line up the lazer drawn alignment lines around the hatches and masts. Checking RustyJ and Trussben's logs, I decided to glue the decks down using 6 minute epoxy. There are not enough clamps West of the Mississippi to use PVA. The epoxy gave me time to maneuver and, with just weighting each section for about 20 minutes apiece, the job was done.: She's back on her keel now and ready for starting gun port framing. She's growing up
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And just to clarify my position.... there is nothing less 'magic' about a boat or ship designed without ratlines. I greatly appreciate canoes, whaleboats, tugboats , submarines and heavy metal battleships. We are, after all, modelers.
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