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Everything posted by popeye the sailor
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consider that site book marked.........I was in there looking at some of the gassers........WOW! awww.......cool paint jobs are always a crowd pleaser is that their version of decal bonder.........that's what I use. I use their decal maker. luckily, you found out with decals you can imitate with paint. I love the 3 in 1 kits.........used to have boxes of spare parts under my bed as a lad. guess I dated myself too
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well........I'm still fumbl'in with the hoses and stuff.......trying to get this stuff to stretch over some of these pins is near impossible. I find I need to work fast because it will go back to it's normal size, if it takes me too long to attach them. not all the pins are the same though.........the brake line tee seems to be alright. now to get them on the calipers....that's the next feat in the meantime, I devised a plan for the wires. after a few failures with those black boots I was supposed to use, I thought to cut the pins off and drill a hole for them. the magneto was my test......seemed to do the trick. the distributor will be the bigger task.........I removed it from the engine with no problem. after cutting all the pins off, the same drill was used to make these holes. being so close to the edge of the cap, I started on an angle, straightening the drill out as it dug in. took time......being very careful.........got 'em all drilled out. the distributor was cemented back on the engine...had to wait until the distributor was dry enough to run the wires. for unseen reasons, the freshly cut wires wouldn't fit in the holes..........too tight a fit went up a drill size and started to drill them out again, but the distributor came loose and had to be removed again to finish the job. once back in place....and more time was wasted, it's back to square one. it was touched up with flat black. once starting to run the wires.......which was working much better, I got to thinking about the main fuel rail.....I really should get that in place first. there was trouble getting it to fit, as you might recall....and then the breakage. fitting it at this time, there was success, and it was cemented in place using the needle tip nozzles that can be bought separate, comes in a two tube pack, or in some model paint sets. I use them also to extrude filler, in tight areas and gaps for my wood projects. just for fun, I dry fitted the rear slicks on the chassis. what a messy garage........ before long though.......all the wires were installed.......the electrical part of the model is done now to get to the plumbing parts. once done using the needle nozzle, here is how I clear out the remaining glue........I just stick a long pin in it. give it time to dry...twist......and pull it out. it's ready to use again hope to get more done today!
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more like spatter CDW...........the caps are likely no good anymore. i'll likely sand it down in that area and shoot it again. I've been mess'in with the hoses.......being all balled up for as long as they have, kinked it terribly. still working with it........gonna try some hot water......it might help get the kinks out. I need to fit it on the pins J........this hose stuff just doesn't want to stretch over them.
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on the site that I frequent, some of them even require insurance, if you buy them......collector's items. I forget what the Revell kit I'm working on went for.......but it was produced in 1988.......really not that old. there are some that are a lot older. I really like what you've done with the chassis......you did a super job on it! your mod work looks good too.......so sorry to see what happened to the decals. yep.......that's what I call micro cracking....thousands of tiny shards. can't wait to see what you do pro stock and pro modified divisions have aero-ed the bodies too
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I'm bumping heads with the hose and wire dilemma..........I've done a couple thing at the moment that did perplex me. but, if things work out right, I'll solve the silly black boot thing and I can move on. this plagued me when I built the English Leather........I managed to do it, but there were some headaches along the way. update soon.........let cha know what I decided on
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..a continued great job EJ.........she's looking awesome!
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glad to see you're posting the revival you raised a very interesting point.........I never really thought about the height of the body off the ground. I've just built them.........but the thoughts of aerodynamics didn't come into play until later in the sport. before the flip body cars, gassers ruled the strip......but in looking at them, the rear of the car was never higher than the front..........they were always level to the ground. the idea of the 'straight shot frame led to the rail dragster........they thought that length would better get a handle on stability .......wrong! {whole 'nother soapbox} this is probably why they got away from the street version body styles and started using the bodies you see today, although you can still see the resemblance in pro stock and pro modified cars. they corrected the angle in which the frame relates to the ground, but the bodies are made to decrease the amount of air that can get under the car. still love what you did for the hoses......making me want to rethink what is supplied in this kit.
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amazing job on the stands Doris.....your attention to detail is fabulous! I know that you like to make all your decorations from scratch, but imagine what a time saver it would be if you worked from molds. especially the ones that can be used on other models.
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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I'm flattered that your bringing something out of mothballs on account of 'lil 'ol me I would suggest though, that you post it where I have my car build. folks might get distracted from the Hannah. it appears that you did away with the chrome.....I think it looks better I hope your planning to post it........looks like you were off on a very good start.
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yepper....deck layout is taking shape
- 714 replies
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- lady nelson
- victory models
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I hadn't thought of that J............most of it will be covered with decals......just various spots along the rockers will show. thanks for the firing order, there is a illustration of it in the instructions. I'll compare the two, to keep them honest I haven't done much......been dealing with work, snow, and sub zero temps. perfect to be inside......wish I could be....☃️
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I recalled from having built the English Leather car, the hoses and wires were the biggest pain to do. the diameter of the rubberized tubing is vastly inconsistent with the pins that they need to be pushed onto. the ends need to be stretched out to accomplish this. I've been using one of my picks, since the end is tapered........it works, but you need to be quick about pushing the hose on the ignition wires pose a different problem.......black rubber ends need to be fitted on, so they can be pushed onto the distributor........the magneto wire need to have them on both ends, to be routed where it need to go. the wire is metal cored.......the kind of wire you would find in toys and such. if it had some body to it, would be a big help, but it is pretty flimsy. this adds to the problem of assembling these pieces. the black ends I need to put on the wires are 1/8 of an inch long. I cut the wires and arranged them on a piece of tape, from the magneto , to #8. after futile attempts to fit one of the black 'boots' on the wires, I tried it with what was left of the wire material, and I managed to get one on. no glue.......it's just pushed on there...........not only that, from all the mess'in 'round I've done, it looks distorted. I have a thought about a plan B, but I want to try a little more before I go drastic with this. as for the body........I took a couple of pictures of the passenger side, to show the paint imperfection.
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me neither.......that's why I modified the fitting on the EZ brush to run off my compressor. for a person who doesn't have the room for a compressor...... ......even a small one, they may be a fair substitute........but having to stop frequently must make it a long drawn out process. I have a friend...Don Wheeler, who has tried and evaluated many different types of airbrushes....some good......some not so good. I guess there is a love/hate relationship for the Testor brushes.......Aztek in particular. haven't spoken to him for quite a while now, but his blog site is still up. https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home the pressure coming from a can is unpredictable, I think
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very nice Vossie.....windlass looks the treat. as long as it looks functional.....that's my goal
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- lady nelson
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ship's boats look awesome Greg........I use the sprue method, like Carl, when painting as much as I can. the only drawback is flash.......trimming and cleaning the part before painting can null that thought out real quick superb job detailing her out!
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thanks for the kind comments gents........I did make a mistake. it's the passenger side that saw the goof up, but I looked at it a few moments ago, and a lot of it has actually disappeared since it's had time to fully cure. it's passable.....most of it will be covered with decals anyway. I'll just need to fix any overs prays and stuff. even I'm impressed with how glossy and smooth the finish is.........a website I used to belong to, swore by Future floor wax! I'll show the flaw CDW.........it's really not that bad I've built a few of those cars too Lou.......they are neat if the paints are good, they should still spray fine........I think it's just that the caps for the EZ brush are getting worn. I use thin wire to clean them. time for a new system, me thinks......I will continue to use the Spray Craft for the time being. that was an older bottle of light blue....to tell ya the truth, I think I thinned it a bit too much. it all worked out though.......so I'm happy. no......I haven't tried the A3205 yet. pulling out the paper work for it, I found that there was more stuff added to it. it comes with the airbrush, two glass bottles w/caps and siphon tubes, 1 side bowl {turns it into a gravity feed I think} and 1 general nozzle. the A3208 has the same, but includes a second nozzle and a can of compressed air. you can find it on E-bay for around $40.00 https://www.ebay.com/p/Testors-Aztek-A3205-Workhorse-Airbrush-Set/1000018725
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the Testor's site has a selection to choose from CDW http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes9326.htm http://www.testors.com/category/136949/Airbrushes I never used them much either........I bought one a long time ago.........got to be a pain setting it up for a small job, just to spend double the time cleaning it. when I started working on wooden ships, I felt that it would be good to have one......so many large areas to paint. the EZ brush was a big help........I painted many models with it. I'm not as good as others here on the site........I'm just lucky I get the results that I do
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I neglected to show a thing or two that has already been added to the chassis....one is the wheelie bars. I added them the other evening, before I ended the session. then, just for fun.........I dry fitted the engine in it's place... this morning, I though I'd start working towards painting the body. I've already painted a few of the parts for it. the body is supposed to be blue exterior, with flat black for the interior. I wanted to do something a bit different, so the interior will be gray, with flat black for the cockpit shroud. I was going to do flat black on one side, with gray for the other side.....but I later opted to go completely flat black. the interior of the body was painted gray. the shroud is still a little wet at the moment.........the body is pretty dry for the exterior of the body, I chose to leave the rear window white........I'll give it a shot of clear gloss when the body is painted. I gave it some more drying time, before the windows and interior was masked up for painting the exterior. it took some time to do it {the tangent that I spoke of} so I could spray in the spare room, I had modified the EZ airbrush to run off of the compressor for the Spray craft airbrush. it's a small compressor.......I haven't used the Spray craft outfit { I got it new.....long story}, mainly because it's a gravity feed and a lot more cleaning is involved. I was initially going to paint the body in Grabber Blue........I have what's left of a small rattle can of it {its the same paint I used to paint the Nordkap....tells ya how long I've had it}. that quickly became a bust........it wouldn't spray right, and leaked all over the place........even on the floor! well........after cleaning up that mess, I was left to choose another paint, since I don't have any small bottles of Grabber Blue. I chose a lighter color blue.....it's still within the Chrysler / Plymouth spectrum, that and I like the color......should be good. if your looking in Lou.......it came from the lot I bought off you thinning it down........setting up the airbrush........I was ready to go.............NOT! goshdarn thing wouldn't spray, if it's life depended on it! not only that, I was getting really bad results to boot! thinned the paint some more........no good........traded caps.......even worse! now I'm getting angry and running out of things to try! with things look'in quite bleak....there was only one thing to do.......try out the Spray Craft airbrush! the only saving grace here, is that the bad area that I did with the EZ brush, will be covered over with a decal. I thought about redoing it, but I don't think it needs to be done. so.......it is what it is light has a lot to do with this color........I think it will darken a little as it cures. the driver side is the skeptical side....more toward the rocker panel. the bin doesn't help either.......light is bouncing off from every angle. I have another airbrush that I haven't tried yet...surprising since it's a siphon feed. it's an aztek A320 airbrush set. comes with instructional videos and other literature now.......I'm not sure, but I think there are more parts here than there should be........like two extra bottles and other parts that are floating 'round in here.......I haven't looked at anything about it. it also came with several tips.....the colors indicates the spray, I believe. keen to note that it's set up to run off of an air canister.......same type that can be used with the EZ airbrush. as I read...the canister needs to be placed in warm water when in use, to prevent moisture and freeze up. I will need to order the caps from Testor's, if I want to continue with the EZ airbrush. for now, I guess I'll use the Spray Craft, since it is now set up. it looks like it did a decent job
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