popeye the sailor

either that or about to be run over by the tank! look'in sweet!

nice work with the planking......looking really sweet.

look'in amazing so far........don't know how your not plagued with eye strain quite impressive

she's coming along great EJ.........the added decorations and dead eye / channels look really super. very nice work

look'in good, as you unravel the spaghetti saga! the sails look really good too

thanks J....I was relieved to see the body comes down with plenty of clearance. it will fit much better when the cockpit panels are in place. hope to get something done on her today....errands to run. once the chassis is complete, the rest of the build should finish quickly

too much eye candy.............I'd be broke in a second! beautiful stuff though

wow.........now this brings her more into the light! looks great with a full skin can't get over how much detail is in that power plant

with how attentive the police are here in Manchester....we'd probably get away with it thanks for the good word CDW

today, as I mentioned, I was around quite a bit. .......and as I said earlier, I got some work done. I need to find a remedy for that hose problem, that I feel will impede the installation of the engine. hopefully, it will make the hose routing look neater too. I was using some really thin brass wire from one of my boat projects. it fits easily into the gray tubing, but I found that CA had traveled down one of the oil hoses, so the wire couldn't go the full length of the hose. not having a drill that was that long, I resorted to clamping a piece of the wire in the chuck of my drill, and tried to ream out the hose. that went over about as big as flatulence in a frat house, so I gave up that idea....I might as well as used a wet noodle! here are the hoses with the brass wire inserted. they bent well, but not as good as I would have liked......seemed to have some 'give' to them still. the exhaust overflow line can be seen in the picture above. I must have something stiffer, I thought..........then it hit me! I have some copper colored wire from past billing's kits....I have a lot of it too! taking the length of gray tubing I have left, I inserted the wire into the full length.........holds the bends a lot better I replaced the clogged hose........no way to clear it out. bent up and out of the way, I'll be able to install the engine, and route them the way I want them. here's another shot of the steering assembly, now that I have it under better lighting. I may cut off the pins on the oil filter housing and drill holes for the wires to go instead. the other hoses assembled well doing it this way. the drive shaft tunnel has to be aligned with the tranny and differential....it was cemented into the splatter shield {gearbox shroud}, and then fitted on the pin of the differential to dry. there is to be a clutch pedal, which locates on the bell housing, and the hole you see in the side of the tunnel, is where the bracket part of the shifter, will locate. once the engine is cemented into place, I can finish the steering assembly. I've done some painting to it, to get it ready. so, this is how the beast is shaping up. I like the looks of her with the gray headers. I forgot to mention.........there is some 'toe out' with the front end..... that's what one gets when assembling only part of an assembly, and then letting it dry. most of it is because I keep moving it around, but once I set her up, it fairly small. haven't checked how much, but there is some play in there too. would be a good name if I had to change it...........the Loose Goose I also got the driver side logo decal on there too today..........yep, confirmed........another year or two, and these decals would be junk! I even used warm water and decal set, and I still ended up with a couple of areas to touch up. overall though, it's not as bad as it looks...the decals for the Jukebox Ford were worse than these. I really shouldn't show this.....I would think you'd like to see her in ALL her glory, but I did dry fit the body on the chassis. she has a few thing hang'in up the body, so she's not sitt'in at 100%.......but I like the way she looks in this picture. did you think it would be that easy?

hey there folks. I've been all over the place today........but I managed to do some work on the car. thanks for the info Mark......but they already have a hole in the body for the chute cable. just so there isn't an unsightly hole there, I'll route it that way. in looking at the logic here...... if the body goes flying, so does the chute...it's attached to the body. I get what your saying.....I've seen it myself....don't know why model companies make mistakes like this. that's only part of the plumbing CDW....the wires are done what I'm experiencing with this model.....I had the same go around with the English Leather. this time though, I've gotten a bit smarter. the hose tubing is soft, but very stiff....and doesn't want to forget how it was packed in the kit. I will be covering more with this next update........whether my idea worked or not I hope so J........I've done much more than what I did with the English Leather. thinking back to those days, I can see how much I've learned......without the visual aides {models in front of me} I used to do minimal painting.......just detail work on some; but that depended a lot on how drawn to the model I was. the Revellution won't be perfect, but I do hope it will show the effort I'm putting into her as always........thanks for the likes! glad to see folks are look'in in so......anyways.......the admiral went to bed last night........and I was getting creamed in my video game {just couldn't gt my hack 'n slash together}. to get a breather, I tinkered a bit, attaching the drag link to the steering arm. the little cap that was to be cemented on took a fly from the tweezers, so I spent a few moments looking for it. I had a spare........I'll continue the search in the morning. these are a little blurry........but you can see the U bracket that the drag link runs through.......and how the steering linkage pin goes through the frame bracket and how it looks. the pin won't be moving once it's cemented into the steering box, but the rest of the assembly will have full mobility. when the outer cockpit panels are added, the lower part of the linkage and drag link will be hidden. so, with the completion of the steering, being movable is a complete success earlier in the afternoon, I made up and printed the decals I needed. meet Fred..........

that is a nice body scheme.........will watch this leopard change her spots

looking great OC! nice photo looking forward from the helm

the foil might not add that much to the thickness...but it does make them easier to shape regarding the decals.......your kit would specify if they are water slide or dry transfer.......but Jack is correct. I haven't done a kit with dry transfers. I've read up on them, and saw a video in you tube. they seem like a crap shoot.....if you don't get them right the first time ................😭

...and it continues all this talk about decals today got me all peckish. considering that this kit is a 1988 production...and the decals look good, it still got me thinking. everything is beginning to hinge on the engine being in place.......I don't want to put the steering assembly in place....might be in the way.......you know, that sort of thing. so I braved putting some of the hoses on.........the oil pump first. I hope they are long enough....some of them weren't and I resized them {cut new ones}. the upper ones are the fuel rail feed and return lines......disaster there.....the pin for the rail broke, and so did the one on the pump. I thinned down the wire I was using to replace the pins.......small gauge brass and they go on much better. to spread out the ends of the hoses, I used a short piece of that mig wire.......I was also using it to make the pins. by thinning down the wire, I can drill smaller holes.........for places like on the fuel pump, there's not a lot of meat there to drill in the first place I got them in place after the repairs were done. I spent some time making the decals.......the Accel decals and the back window dressing...I'll paint some clear lacquer there before it's put on. as for the Accel decals, I'll just fit them in somewhere. I should have taken a picture of the decal sheet, but for some reason or another, I didn't. as like what happened to J.........if it happens here, I'm pretty sure I can come up with something.....the Testor's decal program includes many images and car body designs. they's work best on 1:25 scale........but I think I can enlarge them to work for me. there is a nice big dragon, that I'd love to fit somewhere after cutting up the decal sheet, I started off with the front grille and the rear deck. everything was going fine, until I got a bit too aggressive with the blotting.....yea, these decals are borderline....another year or two, and they'd be trash. the body was on the main table...... before I started with the decals, I did a dry fit of the windshield.......fits really good. I had to take a double take around that passenger window.......don't recall seeing those white blotches. it's just the camera trying to make me look worse than I really am here's the front grille....you'll see the chip maybe I can blot it out with some black wash or something. the rear fared a bit better.....I was a little more careful with how I smoothed it out. I cemented the chute in place, but I held off on the cable routing {it's just black hose}........I may run it up to the driver seat..........although, I could also opt to run it along the roof. I'll need to make brackets from some flat brass......easy enough. it'll give the chute time to dry too. after touching up all the exhaust ports on the headers, they were added to the engine. once they were dry, the exhaust overflow lines were run from the headers to the fittings on the front of each head. I already am seeing a potential problem......the two oil lines. that darn tubing is so stiff, I'll never get them to connect to the oil filter housing without breaking them. they are also going to interfere with cementing the engine in place. I need to pre shape them somehow........if they break off with the engine in place, it going to be tough to fix them. I'll figure something out

look'in really really good! the engine looks awesome.......must be a real complex bugger

catching up with your build........you've made some nice progress the boats and cranes look great on deck! super idea on the planes.......should look very cool

looking really sweet! very nice clean job!

she looks great Jack! very nice.......and yes...the rigging would be a nice bit of detail to add nice tank

as long as you do all the standing rigging first, you'll be in good shape. my method varies from E.J's a bit, so, I won't confuse you with it. your doing a superb job!

good morning all.........reporting in from a snowy Manchester N.H.! not totally sure, but I think we got 6 inches of fresh powder last night. so, I gotta contend with that after taking Gibbs out {he'll be happy to see it}. sitting here last night, I did play around a little with the model...... the steering wheel assembly has been assembled.....just got to touch it up and paint the brackets. the chassis is partially rolled out from the garage.....I'll tow it out the rest of the way, when I get back from snow blow'in the driveway. the masking tape was removed from the back window......gonna paint it with clear lacquer. I'll make a decal for it, to dress it up a bit. now turned right side up. oh darn..........gotta get moving.... I'll be back!

goth! that's the biggest problem with decals.........unless they have been stored in a controlled environment, the chances that they'd be any good is quite slim. I keep all mine in sealed plastic bags and in my little cabinet.........in a drawer and kept out of the light. unless there is a stamped production date on those aftermarket decals, I would suspect them being the same condition. I ordered decals from Revell for the Cutty Sark, to replace the decals that were bad in the kit I got from E-Bay........but even those decals weren't any good! they have an extremely fragile shelf life. this also depends on the decals too......take the decals from my kit here. these seem rather thick, compared to decals from other brands of models, I cut the end tab off the decals the other day and wet it. it looked like an actual decal........likely could have been used for a plaque, if the model was to be cased up........it slid off with no trouble. so, I feel good about them.......but I'm still going to use an air of caution, just in case. micro cracking is a major problem

great looking winch Pat.....nicely done I like the face that the ruler has the numbers printed on it..........it would keep me from having that bewildered look all the time, when I try to figure stuff out in my head

I do ink jet as well....never tried it on a laser printer. a major drawback with it though, is that they don't print white. I cheat by using white decal paper. this also helps with the transparency issue the program has. using white paper, I change the background to the color on the model and them import the image...it's how I did the A.G. hull decals. if you run into problems, let me know. I'd be willing to take a stab at it the model looks super! you did a great job adjusting the ride height

look'in superb Kevin! keep up the good work. remember......the more you do, the less that's left