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Everything posted by popeye the sailor
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sounds like a good idea luteguy.........don't think there are too many logs on this particular ship.
- 13 replies
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- flying fish
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another older kit! these are like the first production........not laser cut, printed decks.......just like the Nordkap I built. I used to do customer service for Tom, back when he owned Billing USA. the printed decks was one of the biggest complaints good that the wood wasn't warped........or worse........PETRIFIED!!!!! the hull frame looks great Gil
- 60 replies
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- dragon class
- billing boats
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that stuff sounds a lot like the Testor's window maker I use. I love the stuff........it even will cement clear parts in place. awesome!
- 258 replies
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- harriet lane
- model shipways
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you may not need to make drastic bends.......it's more in how the planks are tapered. when planking, it's best to create a fairly straight line with the planking, and then try to maintain it. I usually dry fit the plank first to see how the plank wants to run. if it wants to run onto the preceding plank, then you want to taper {rule of thumb is not to taper in excess of half the plank width}. if the plank wants to run off the plank path, then you may need to use a stealer, or Jog two planks together {merge two planks together to create another row of planking}. there are many planking tutorials out there......some are here. a leisure browse should lead you to them I'm not an expert at it........I can articulate better than fashion be sure that the hull halves are straight when you cement them together........the only thing to worry about
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yes......there are thinner sheets around you also have luck looking in the HO train dept. I've made use of building siding, as well as other structure sheeting. I though I kept the package that the sheet brass came in.....but I must have thrown it away it is very easy to bend and can be cemented on with CA. don't commit if your unsure.......just keep studying the plans and the logs. I'm sure you'll figure out how thing go
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I built the Billing's America, which is the same process as yours. I glued the two sides together.......it really doesn't affect anything, because the planks start and stop resting against the keel. not only that, if you don't have the means to clamp the two sides together, it will be harder once they are planked. at this point you have numerous clamping points, and will have a more seamless assembly. I used the instructions for this kit to build my Andrea Gail........I also used the ABS hull kit instructions as well. the model's in the gallery if you wish to see her I'll be pleased to follow along!
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I hear the Jaws music now Patrick........ liable to scare the gold right off the little fellas! thanks for the good word.........and to you as well Rob! I didn't get to the port side net........and work is as I remember it...........what a drag! before I forget yet again..........I did fix that stern light. I'm also beginning to make the vents for the decks. more once the work week is over.
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she's look'in super Jack! another admiral who helps with the sails..........how do you gents do it?
- 250 replies
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- willie l bennett
- model shipways
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so cool! so glad to see another fine build by you! another build you may want to take a look at is by Borge Knudsen. his metal work is awesome!
- 60 replies
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- dragon class
- billing boats
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thank you Steve, Patrick and Sam .......and those who hit the like button. the decals that make up the stripe....I made them a while ago. I was going through my bag of decals...I threw out some of them...extras from the Andrea Gail, the Susan A, and a few others.........I'll never use them again. the stripes are part of a bunch of images that I cot from a HO train site, copying images of decal sheets. I blow them up to size ans set them up in the decal maker. the same can be made in photo shop, if you have it I cemented the fore deck in place.......thinking of how to make the mahogany border. the curved piece will be tough gotta get that planked. more to come, but first.....to get through the pesky work week. more soon! thanks again all for look'in in!
- 452 replies
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- thermopylae
- sergal
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now it will depend on what your going to use to fill in the glass panes. it might be good to use white glue......it will be a cloudy clear. I've come across tinted film.........the type they use on car windows. that might work in your favor as well. good progress thus far
- 258 replies
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- harriet lane
- model shipways
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there ya go Tom and John.........nearest I know of is Boston.........you can be there when they come to haul me away!
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thanks very much everyone for the comments and likes........even I wanted to see how it would look I put it half together on the table and finished it on the ship.......it worked out just as well. I'm hoping to get something done today, but it don't look promising. if you read my Thermopylae log...you know why I will try to get the other net up. it will get the other net rig from hanging off of my crane light. the clothes pin that I'm using for a counter weight hits the shade {which is metal}, and makes the sound of a ship's bell, whenever someone walks by the table. it can get annoying when it rings past three bells
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Billing USA is a good place........Roger has done well in keeping it the way Tom did { I miss the old days....and Tom & Susan}. Ages of sail took over......done business with them as well mast looks super Doug....goose neck brackets look really good! you may want to push that tab further into the boom.......and to make it a little more decorative, get some thin brass sheeting and cut some narrow strip. fashion into a band and cement around where the goose neck is inserted. it will protect the boom from any breakage or problems in the future
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then there's the though of joggling these plank lines together further up the contour. you'd get the combination of a joining scarf joint and creating the needed plank row.
- 714 replies
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- lady nelson
- victory models
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thanks for the thumbs up, and thanks for the likes as well I do have to say that the lacquer coat dried rather fast, in both applications. for those who use Testor's or Model Master, the metallic paints tend to be soft, and prone to dings and scratches. finger prints and dulling is another problem......I'm hope'in that these problems are alleviated. thanks again for look'in in on my little build I'll try to make some more progress, but it might be hard to do....gotta run some errands and prepare to go back to work.......UGH!
- 452 replies
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- thermopylae
- sergal
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I hear you about work........this is the last day of my vacation. I'm afraid of what I'll find when I get back. look'in at a week's worth of unsettled weather to boot!.....at least I was off for the big storm that hit us the other week haven't tried it before, but I don't think an acrylic would stick to P.E. very good, since it's based with water. I would suggest good 'ole enamel, or suspension based paint. looking forward in seeing your results
- 258 replies
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- harriet lane
- model shipways
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I spent a little time with this build today.......I think everyone is waiting to see this. I installed the starboard side net. it involved fastening the net to one of the trawl rigs, as the first step, using metal rings to do so. a length of hemp rope was seized to one side of the rig, and about 26 colored beads were strung on. I ended up choosing the yellow and white ones. at the other end of the net, a ring was fastened there too. a shackle was threaded on some rigging rope, and fastened to the net via the ring. it's a bit blurry, but you can see that the sides were crimped together before it was seized. all of the beads {buoys} were spaced and cemented in place on the rope.when lifted, the buoys hang natural. {I laid it out to show} the assembly was then fastened using the shackle that I had previously threaded on the net rigging. the rigging rope that is on the other end of the net, was threaded through the block {double block} and tied off to the shroud spreader and given a rope coil. I made up a bunch of these curly looking things........these need to be trimmed and shaped, and used to fasten the bottom lip of the net to the buoy string. the upper lip of the net is fastened to the center chain supports of the rig itself. the port side net is on the desk.......it will get the same treatment and installed on the ship. thanks for looking in
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finally........done with that last bit! what a pain it was. the main goal here was to raise the waterline.......and I did so. as mentioned....the Billing's paint was a bust, as well as using the airbrush to do it. here is the Testor's paint. the difference is easy to see. I think that scrolling up will show you the Billing's copper paint pictures.........crap! it don't no matter....here is a picture of the Billing's copper bottom. big difference! from here, it got a coat of the flat lacquer. it needed more time to dry........it's a lot better than it was, I think. As an added bonus, I went through my bag of decals and got some white strips. they are actually the white decal paper, cut from other colored strips I had made. I cut them down even thinner, since they didn't need to be so wide. I will most likely need to paint the rub rail white. the waterline was such a pain.......I can imagine how bad the rails would be to line them with decal. so.....that's the big whop-t-do today....I devoted some time elsewhere
- 452 replies
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- thermopylae
- sergal
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window frames look cool.........like something you'd see in a factory structure are the window panes small enough?
- 258 replies
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- harriet lane
- model shipways
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progress looks good Tom....interesting jig for the dead eyes. I recently made a wire one....want to make a couple more in different sizes
- 1,348 replies
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- constitution
- model shipways
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well........it's true.......I haven't had one yet, that looked good at this stage of the game. it's when you get the hull squared away and start populating the deck, you begin to see the fruits of your labor. if you need to use a stealer, it won't be that large. you may see that you'll go another row before you'll need to do it. that will move you positions up.......if you plank from the keel up
- 714 replies
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- lady nelson
- victory models
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