popeye the sailor

I do recall seeing listed parts from fellow with a similar user name.........you mentioned this earlier....cool yea......I just got the wood muffler plugs..way too thin to be taken as real I'd order more......but I'm getting serious rebuttals .........guess I'll be doing a lot of scratch

.........two tool boxes....full of tools.......and no sign of an allen wrench that small! so I guess the next step would be to visit the local hardware store and see what they got. I would have been happy to see a 1/4 socket set........or a collection of bits, that went down that small. I ended up with a standard and metric combo set. 1.5 mm to 10 mm metric & 0.05 to 3/8 standard.........fingers crossed that one will do the job. this set was around $16.00. I do have a 1.5 mm allen wrench, but it fits sloppy and slips {likely due to wear}. the 0.05 allen standard is odd.........why not do it in 1/32, or even 1/64ths? the actual size of these set screws turned out to be 1/16, and I was very happy to see there was one in the set. I also shaped the rudders......not exact, but I like the way they came out. I started to fill in some of the seams and joints and do some more sanding. I also did more sanding on the deck surface, in prep to lay the deck platform. I'm beginning to think I should have it in place before I do the resin .......the gap line around the gunwales. the excess along the stern was also removed, since it seemed to offset the deck platform forward, jutting it over the bow. sanding it flush with the frame, the platform was dry fitted, and it was seen that the platforms now jutted over the stern lip. adding a 1/8th strip connecting the gunwale sides, cured the overhang perfectly. to clean up the rest, I added a strip that joins the clamps too. side profile of the deck line...... more to come

looking great Mike! I've been wanting to mention that I found instructions for the 50 cal and deck gun........found them on the Shapeways site. you must have gotten the mufflers from there as well. did your kit have the vacuum form mufflers or wood?.......I got the wood ones......not cool. I'm thickening them up so I can sand them in the oval shape PT boats are known for. have you done anything with the rudders and props yet?

thanks Halvor! feel free to use any of the log you find useful. it's a fun kit, and there is some freedom in how you want to fit 'er out. I generally look at pictures and derive ideas from there. looking at other logs, you'll see what I mean about building styles. create your own style and above all....have fun

my word Mark........you do such beautiful work reading through your log was very enjoyable....some very precise work! glad to finally get caught up with your project......pulling up a chair

not much further to go...........I have been working on her off and on. I take it as therapeutic.....I turn to it when something else frustrates me ....am I going about this the right way?

a nice glossy sealer will make 'er pop!

here to echo what all has said.......I've had burn out issues too, as well as projects that get my goat sorry to hear your admiral has issues as well......I wish you well in that regard. take care of things man........look'in forward to seeing you continue

which catalog is that? that is the general shape of the rudders from Shapeways. as Lou pointed out, these are R/C parts I'm working with. as with any parts found in kits, some require shaping and trimming. I may shape them. I have been able to pick at the PT boat. the rudders don't match, so I'll have to make a match to either one. I have some sheet brass stock. I have a copper sheet, but it isn't thick enough, nor ridged enough. what I did find was some tin sheet........that was thick enough. the hull was sanded around the tubes....just a little more and it will be good. I still need to go over the rest of the hull, before I do the resin coat......the weather is getting better and better....I'd rather do it in the garage. the next step with the rudders, was to solder them on the shafts. another defect I had to deal with, was that the slots for the rudder weren't cut equally. the solution was to measure how much of the rudder would fit into the shafts, and notch the one for that particular shaft. I think it was like a 3/16x3/16 square cut out of the corner. soldered together, they now look even. luckily, there is enough shaft to go the entire length of the tubes......I can do what I want to do. fitted in place, the spacing looks good. the last picture had me concerned.........the starboard side rudder was a bit out of line with the prop. there was a difference of about an 1/8th of an inch. removing the tube, I remeasured and marked where it was supposed to be. this can be easily corrected. the hole was redrilled........to fit the tubes, I used sandpaper to ream out the holes. this was done by wrapping sandpaper around a bamboo dowel, secured in place with CA. it was fitted in the drill and then passed through the hole....in and out........over and over, until the tube fit, tight enough to be firmly inserted. it worked well for the first holes...........I guess I got too aggressive with the reaming, and I found out how strong bamboo is, before it began to twist. I still got the job done though one beauty of a round hole, is how easily it can be plugged. so the tube will be refitted and properly sealed. as for the prop shafts, there were no holes for a shear pin. for a static model, this isn't important, but I was able to drill them anyway. I located them so there won't be too many threads jutting out from shafts. inside the hull, the linkage levers for the rudders were sync together, and a connection rood was fashioned for them. so far, I haven't found an allen wrench that fits the jam screws....I know I have some that are THAT small...I just have to find them {I'm sure they are in a bag somewhere in the garage}. more to come

...almost forgot..........the admiral and I feel fine after the second shot no adverse reactions

I just placed the next order for this vessel at Shapeways.......I saw that they also list the struts, associated parts and props as a set. if I knew that back when........ I ordered the 50 cals......and I ordered the deck gun as well.......I liked the way Mike's came out yea......I know Lou. what I should do is round off the rudders so they would look more like the real ones {the ones I saw at Shapeways are}. hopefully, I can set up the rudders so they can move.....I will connect them so they move together. I could have gone with the three prop/rudder set up, but I was concerned with the apex of the keel for the center shaft. I read in the instructions that when locating the 'single' shaft, the keel was flattened, to accept the strut.........I wasn't keen on drilling through the keel either. so I settled on having just two props/rudders........close enough for me I'm going to use the props too.......they are close enough. I've done some work on the rudders.......I'll have something to show later

yes...those bulwark panels can be a problem. usually, I don't use them...I simply plank the bulwarks. it comes out just as good. I've built a couple of these split hull designs, and to me, felt that it might be extra work joining the two halves once planked. I joined the halves together before planking, so I could properly clamp the halves together. I also though of the seams at the stern and the bow. most modelers will approach these steps in a different way.....there are no real wrong ways to build wooden ships. it all comes down to what is easier for you. the neat bit of research I think you will enjoy, is the net winch I did a lot of looking to find out how it worked........even more to find the right mesh for netting. I work for Walmart on the trailers and trucks, and one day I was working in a trailer, I happened on a hairnet that crumpled in a corner. it had been left behind from a shipment to a store, and repeatedly run over and beaten........it looked perfect! I didn't even clean it up.......cut it to size and used it be sure to fare the frames well, so the planking will sit on the bulkheads flat.......it will insure smooth contour to the hull

I'm back.........almost late for the vaccine appointment the admiral looked up and saw the time! we were given a time, but it didn't matter.......when we got there, we got in line with several other people. the end result of all this, is we got our second shots.......Hurray! where wuz I????? the screw shafts.....yea! swapped the props over to the other shafts and put 'em in place. I put the plastic spacers on this time around. I wasn't out of the woods yet........the rudders are problem No #3. the shape of the rudder is off, the shafts are different lengths, and the slot to insert the rudder in the shaft, is longer on one than the other. the long one is slotted on both ends...for what reason, I have no idea. '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''here we go again

when I bought the kit, it was simply called the Norden. with this model, the name is located on the front of the pilot house. in the case of the Cux 87, it was located on the stern. basically, most fishing companies number their boats, and usually they are on both sides of the bow. there are some companies {North Atlantic trawlers and deep sea fishing vessels} that will put the name of the ship on the bow. I do hope I'm reading the discussion correctly, because I didn't know there was a proper way to display a ship. I always display my models on the side that came out the best

likely........they recently opened up another branch that deals with kits that they bought from the general public. folks who wanted to thin out their stashes must have taken advantage of this..........the email I got showed pictures of the shelves......amazed with what I saw! I'm even more amazed with the differences between these two hardware kits. my only deduction is that what I bought from Model Expo, was old stock, and the one I got from Ages of sail was newer stock. the struts aren't the only issue.......there is one with the prop shafts too. the props from Amati are good......they have the slot in the back for the shear pin {locking pin to arrest the prop and key it to the shaft}......I only had to enlarge the center hole slightly so they would fit onto the shafts. the difference here are the nuts that secure the props to the shaft.......one is small and looks good, while the other one is so big, its an eyesore! before I found this problem, I filled in around the shaft tubes using a razor blade as a trough. I'll sand it and apply more if needed. the next thing was to drill the holes for the rudder tubes......I left them around 3/16 " out of the hull, just in case {but I can still adjust them}. I would have gone onto the rudders, but then it hit me about the props........and the second problem presented itself...... if I wanted to make spinners for them.......it would be impossible. I will see if I have a nut that small in one of my junk cans in the garage.......but wait! I happen to have a Billing's prop shaft......perhaps it will still have the nut on it?!?!? checking around......I found not only one....but two! one of them I had cut down for some reason or another........the other one had the nut and the collar still on it! of course, the nut was a different thread pitch.....rats! but...........then again, this is to be a static model.......so it really doesn't need to be a full shaft. I found the nut for the other shaft in the jar with the props and anchors { my inventory}. these two nuts are the same, and so I set it up again using the Billing shafts.......there are no holes for a sheer pin, but I can drill one.....got to go!

hey there Mark.......glad to hear it! Lou was telling me they did fine as well. well........good......that means I won't lose a day of my vacation because of this crappy virus I did a little tinkering with this one today. I started to add the eye bolts to the pin rails...a little more and I can paint them. then I made a capstan, using those wooden gear pieces I bought a while ago. along with the order for the PT boat, I included a windlass. it didn't include the sides.....but included a smaller pair of drums. I kinda adlibbed it a bit and came up with this.

neither.......it's a static model. sad.........but true. I haven't built an R/c either......but I have one in the stash future build.........

I played with the Agillis for a little while.......now its time for the nail biter. the holes were enlarged for the screws and the struts were fastened in place...it wasn't too tough to do once tightened down, I gave them a coat of white glue to keep them from backing off. .......little chance of it, but one can't be too careful getting the angle of the shaft tube right was somewhat of a problem.......I inserted the tubes and marked out where the entrance holes were to be. the angle was the real dilemma........had to make a few adjustments. the two struts weren't at the same angle either.......this brought the holes starting before bulkhead #10. this one needed to have a section cut out anyway......but I had forgotten about it. that's OK though.......resorting to a hammer to drive in the tubes in the rest of the way, cleared the obstacles in fine order! this didn't upset the applecart too badly......I removed the broken piece of bulkhead, and after the tubes were set in place, two lengths of 1/8X1/8 basswood was cemented in to fill in the gap. this didn't pose a strength issue, since the chine struts carry most of the hull strength.......but again, I may as well do it. the tubes were sealed with white glue there's a bit of buggering that need to be filled in, where they enter the hull. I'll do that in the next session, along with the rudders. I was hoping to set them up and remove them for the resin coating. but with all this........I think I'll just work around them more to come soon

the ground shook.....some movement on the PT camp! I had ordered the running hardware, but not through Model Expo, where I got the first running hardware set. so far, I've only ordered the running hardware......I've got to come up with a total for the other stuff...budget director's orders. I got it on Tuesday........so opportune, since I start my vacation...and the second round of shots on Friday. I am a bit dumbfounded though......the first set has a metal tube strut.......this one has a plastic one. ....ewww.....and it's that horrible plastic to boot! .......really a pain to clean off the flash {kind of the type of plastic that milk jugs are made from}. the rest of the parts are the same, I'm relieved to say...I only hope the angle of the shaft tubes is the same. I also got a pair of 30 mm three blade props, which I selected from Amati....I went to ages of sail for this order. Model Expo was out of the running hardware kit. looking at these......I could easily have gone to 33 mm props....think they would translate to 1 3/4. these I think are 1 3/8.....I'll see if they are big enough. if not, I just get another pair {I'm sure I have a model or two that needs a prop so......the first order of business is to mark off the location for the struts and rudder shafts... the nuts for the screws are small......and would be a frustrating affair, considering where I need to put them. but with the aide of my mega tweezers, it should make it a lot easier. it's 12 inches long, and will easily reach into the hull. centering the struts, the holes were marked out and drilled. one of the screw holes missed where I had added the reinforcements.....so I added an additional piece. got to wait till it dries now.

very nice progress Kevin....she's look'in super

look'in superb Greg......the detail is really amazing. I was looking at torpedo launchers the other day......I didn't see a four tube...interesting your art is awesome!

nice! I built one as well........a really fun kit to build!

I see the aft mast was removed by this time

looks awesome Mike!

that's a quarter of an inch.......when the hull is fully assembled, you would likely never notice it would just get sucked into the model. in the years I've spent modeling, there is a + and - to scale, that you can get away with. .......just don't stray too far away from it. one thing it will do though, is translate to all the other involved parts. luckily, parts are a bit oversized and need to be fitted.....you can use this to an advantage. the pedal looks really neat remind me of when I attempted to make foot stirrups for skis for the Phylly C. you have to know the story about the Lobsie twins...it was a fun project.....and I came away with two models for the price of one I did such a terrible job trying to make them, that I turned the skis backwards so you couldn't see that I gave up on making the stirrups