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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. Main Deck I had a great holiday season with my family, I hope all of you did as well. So after a lot of “time off” from the workshop I guess its back to work - at least until I head off to Patagonia next month for the 2020 photography trip that, paid for then, can finally happen. Time to make the coamings and gratings. The coamings are laser cut and a lot quicker and easier than making them scratch as I did on Cheerful. I got this RPToolz cutter after seeing it on James’ Indy build page. I’ve had my Chopper for years, this cutter though makes much more precise cuts, they don’t require a post cut visit to the sander. They’ll both have a home in my workshop, can’t ever have too many ways to cut stuff. Here they are assembled and loosely positioned. The char removal wasn’t as essential beyond shaping and removing the crust since I’m painting the black. I’m using my favorite Admiralty Paints Ironworks Black, which as I’ve noted in earlier posts works nicely in providing a matte look to wood. I only used three coats with 600 grit sanding between coats as it covers well. The gratings are easy to initially assemble using Chuck’s kit and jig but that’s just the beginning - I did a good deal of sanding to get the two crossed layers much thinner. The left is as assembled, the middle is sanded and coated with WOP, I then lightly sanded it once more for the finished look shown on the right. Next up was the partners. Once assembled including #2 pencil to simulate caulking off to the mill to drill bolt holes. Not a fast process but an accurate one, as long as I didn’t loose track of the turns of the axis wheels, 1mm, 2mm, 3mm……… While I had the main mast partner on the mill I included the holes for eight eyelets that will come later. It pays to look ahead in the monolog (and at all the wonderful build logs so much further along than I am). After I’m done building models I really need to consider deep sea fishing. Per Chuck’s recommendation I have black monofilament fishing line in multiple weights, it’s something you can’t buy just a little of. Here I used 20 weight for the capstan partners and 15 for the fore and main partners. It really does work perfectly, easy to install with PVA and a nice crisp look once flush cut (no shiny silver or crushed look that might happen with wire). So with the first phase of the main deck complete and loosely dry-fitted here I’m ready to plank the deck beginning with the center pieces. It won’t take as long as the hull, but it will take a long while. Thanks for looking in, your likes and comments are always appreciated. So many good Winchelsea builds to see and enjoy.
  2. Glad i was helpful. The trial fit of the friezes really helps visualize it all. Nice work, you’re on your way.
  3. Likely not a big deal but carefully check the start point for the top of plank 1. The transition from upper and lower counter is important and not as obvious as you’d think. Try a little. dry-fitting there. We all know our models won’t be fit like Chuck’s. I made lots of little adjustments here and there. The planking transition from sternpost to counter took me multiple tries and a couple of weeks to sort out. But it does sort out…
  4. Not at all, that’s because you’d never get above about 30mph the whole way😂
  5. Now that you have excellent experience with the guns can I send you mine to make😁 You continue to impress, looking really good!
  6. I have these as well, modified the smallest one for the larger moulding but none are small enough for the two strips running the lengths of the hull. Masking your own isn’t hard with a piece of brass, just make much smaller cuts than you’d think you need, it doesn’t take much. I hadn’t done it either…until I did😊
  7. Already I forget, but I explained what I could in my log. Seems like the counter is planked first to give you the place to end the planks. It is a challenge for sure. Definitely yes on the red mark or something close to it.
  8. So many models so little time. I suggest building both at the same time with all the parts intermingled, it would be a fun challenge. Even better replace all the planking with Alaskan Yellow Cedar. 😁
  9. They still require a lot of care and fitting, you’re not chickening out just taking a only slightly less challenging approach, plus you get to develop a new skill…char removal 😁
  10. That is really nice work. The cherry cannons and capstan are a nice touch. I really like the lanterns, what a way to make it your own and a special work of art. I look forward to reaching this point some day and having it look half as nice.
  11. I used Cerulean Blue mixed with White and wound up pretty close. It’s good you’re taking the time to find a good complimentary color to the friezes.
  12. They didn’t want to use that door anyway😊 Looking good, very nice work.
  13. Well, there goes the finger exercise I got from scrolling 🤣
  14. I actually have the wood set for Echo, so someday I may follow your log. 😊
  15. While you have it taped and lined so nicely, one thing that helped me was a red hash mark on the bulkheads signifying the butt shift pattern. Easy to lose track of them while planking.
  16. Thanks, good information and explanation. After the initial mix I do add a little water from time to time as it starts to thinning in the paint jar, just a touch.
  17. Thank you all for the kind comments. I wasn't sure about going off book, I might not have without knowing the eventual quarterdeck will leave just a glimpse. I did something similar on my Fair American years ago, liked it then, like it now :-). Now I guess I can't enter it in the annual historical accuracy competition 😄
  18. Having started modeling with the old soaking method I now easily and successfully bend planks using heat exclusively with no water and can say through experience dry heat is so much better than soaking. A travel iron and my bending station is all I’ve used on my last several models. The process is detailed in both my Cheerful and Winchelsea build logs.
  19. Happy New Year! Good to see your back in action. Those lamps are just so cool.
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