glbarlow

16 hours ago, scrubbyj427 said:

Great progress so far!

Thank you, I’m working from the slower is better mantra, or else I’m just slow.

15 hours ago, KirbysLunchBox said:

Gorgeous

Thank you, I appreciate your saying so.

15 hours ago, starlight said:

That is some of the cleanest planking I have seen on this site.

Thank you, I appreciate that.  There is lots of great planking work,especially among the Winchelsea builders. With only single layer careful is key. 

6 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Excellent, crisp and clean, a joy to watch

Thank you. I enjoy watching yours and the other Winchelsea builders as well. Such a formidable challenge and a great model design

16 hours ago, BobG said:

Looks gorgeous, Glenn!

Thank you Bob, all done with CA btw.  It works great as long as I’m careful. 

18 hours ago, Gregory said:

Are you milling your own planks?

Thank you for the comment. All the planking is milled from sheets of Alaskan Yellow Cedar, which has a fair amount of color variation, sometimes on the same plank. I know from my Cheerful WOP evens out the color as does time still leaving enough variation to keep it interesting. It’s a great wood for ship building. The top 2-3 rows and the bottom 5 will be covered later in the build. 

I solve that problem by not including tree nails 🙂

Above the Wales Complete

After another two weeks work I’ve completed the port side above the wales, so yay.

The good news is it looks a whole lot like the starboard side so that’s good.

The bollard timbers turned out fine, folding into the curve of the bow nicely I think.  They'll look good I think when I later paint them black.

As an aside I’ve upgraded my most important tool, my light source. I’ve had the same Ott lights for ten years or more, they were kinda broken and hard to adjust, and were often in my hair as I bent forward.  I got a newer version of Ott light, amazing for their daylight brilliance using only 18w bulbs, that are both higher and much more adjustable. They make seeing things so much easier. I got them from Amazon and highly recommend them as my workshop primary light (in addition to the room’s under cabinet and overhead lights).

I mentioned in an earlier post that my 7/32 wale planks turned out to be 15/64 increasing my plank height almost 1/16 above the tops of the bulkheads, I also lost some of the S-curve as I planked higher which I didn’t notice until after a consult with Chuck. So I ripped off the 7/32 top plank called for by the plans and replaced it with a 3/16, it is now near even with the bulkhead tops. Later additions to the forecastle should go much better, or at least problems won’t be due to plank height anyway.  It wasn’t an easy surgery, there are a few flaws along the new seam between planks, but it will all be covered by the friezes and moulding. Sometimes you just have to suck it up and rip it off to get it right, or at least get it better.

Here’s quarter shot photos of the port side.  I’m going to do the internal fairing before adding the wales and the first two plank rows below. I just want to be past that step. So I’ll add the fairing caps next and ever so lightly, I hope, reduce the bulwarks to 3/16 and, I hope, without splitting the ship in half. So if you never see another post you'll know it didn't go well.

Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments. You have many choices in Winchelsea logs, I appreciate your taking a look at mine.

5 hours ago, SteveL said:

The little port jigs

I’m sure there are better ways.  They are just a short strip of 1/32 half of it glued to a scrap of wood I used for the ports. (I colored them with a highlighter only so I could find them in the mess, I have two to improve my odds of finding one😂.) The larger piece placed up against the inside of the port with the 1/32 strip defining the rabbet which I marked with pencil then aligned planks to, then used to confirm I had the right width rabbet.  

Like I said, I’m sure there are better ways. It isn’t perfect but it definitely helped me, especially with all the angles involved. For those the Byrnes sander and mitre gauge were indispensable. 

Nice looking cannon. I’m sure you plan to fully rig each one right😂😁

Excellent work in the cabins. It’s all looking quite sharp and we’ll fit. 

11 hours ago, Peter6172 said:

red pen marks at frames

Thank you for your comments. The red pencil marks the shift pattern butt joints for the second row of wales per the plan. I’ll carry those down the hull once I get that far. 

There is no need for a drop plank.  Determining the flow is, as Chuck points out, more art than measurement. I think you’re making that harder by trying it with three belts on this small hull, two is enough. You just look for a smooth flow and sweep of the lines consistent with the sheer. The top line doesn’t have enough sweep at midships and runs too far up the bow to maintain a consistent width of planks top to bottom.  I struggled with this too, you must become one with the ship. 

The jig for cutting the ladder angle is a great idea, wish I’d thought of that. Very nice work.

27 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Just having a devil of a time getting the hole in right position

For Flirt I did it like BE described, with the plans, a pin vise, and eyeballing the angle.  For Cheerful I was a bit more exacting by inserting a fake mast with lines tied on, I ran those lines to match the plans then pre-drilled the holes based on those lines and finally glued the chain plates on with the standard little nails. It’s shown in my build log (post #496), if that helps. 

Gun port patterns are never ever easy, you’re doing fine. For the record I did say lightly on those tabs, the good news is they’ll break off easily when you want them to now.

You work fast, took me along time to get to that point. 

Which is the correct carriage size for the 1 9/16 barrels?

I probably missed it, is the binnacle a mini-kit, I don’t see one on SSMS?

A fun little project, it looks great. 

Well done Frank.

😊Not what I was referencing, I’m glad it helps you. Btw, it’s a poor substitute for lining the hull to really get it right but it works. 

I’ll skip providing any further comments, enjoy your build. 

Common problem from not overlapping the next plank to the one above it and starting the taper where they naturally cross. You’ve started all the tapers for the bow too far back. Another reason for the importance of lining the hull. 
 

It gets better with practice. 

4 hours ago, rafine said:

glad that you took the time and care.

Thanks Bob, it’s definitely nice to have those templates now. 

It’s a process.

Still working on cutting out ports to complete planking above the wales. I finished the port side bow and needed a change of pace after fitting 20 ports (8 more to go) so I decided to do some preliminary fairing on the starboard interior. I’ve added 1/8 balsa between the frames to act as spacer, that plus the planking gets me close to the 3/16 required. I’m not done still more to do, but its close.

It’s a little heart stopping to grind this out with a very light touch of the Dremel. It is made a little easier, still requiring deep slow breaths, by my new addition of a Proxxon pen sander for a lighter touch, then by hand and with chisels to clean up when I get close. I have it close enough now to go back later and polish up what I’ve done and complete the starboard interior. Really I just wanted to establish a little confidence I could pull it off and not have a port sill fly off the ship.  Cheerful now seems like a piece of cake comparatively.

Good news, with both sides of the bow now planked above the wales I’ve confirmed via the Chapter 9 template they meet the required shape for when, in the far distant future, I get to Chapter 9.

Back to the port side planking now.

Looks good to go.

1 hour ago, SteveL said:

post text with pics and then more text and pics.

Upload or type in your text then upload the photos. Place you cursor where you want to place the photo. Hover over the thumbnail of the photo, then click on ‘Insert’ and there you have it. 

5 hours ago, BobG said:

but it looks like the 2mm thinned area around the deadwood gradually flows into the full, original, 3mm width of the false keel with maybe a little tapering into it from the bottom edges of the bulkheads. Is this right? 

That’s right.