glbarlow

The turn back loop is a nice touch and a good look. Clear acrylic verses diluted PVA helped me shape the coils

Brings back nice memories and it looks great. 

There are no words.  Your work is amazing, working cabinet drawers and door that are then covered by a deck…..

Really outstanding!

I wonder sometimes if I just like ripping off planks only to do them again,I do it often enough. Your revisited deck was definitely worth the extra work. 

Glad to see you’re still on it Mark. That unofficial Marine motto should also be the modeler’s creed and one I use often: Improvise, adapt, overcome!  There is no quit…

A full normal thickness planking isn’t best for checking fairing, it can’t make proper contact until it’s properly.  I use a long 1/64 batten of a soft flexible wood and slide it about, up and down 3-5 bulkheads at a time. 
 

The curves is why I use a thin batten. 

2 hours ago, hollowneck said:

Chris' earlier kits sold by Caldercraft

Key point here is that was Caldercraft, not Vanguard. His designs not his company, big difference. 
 

And yes I routinely replaced and upgraded those older kit’s wood as a matter of practice. 

It’s ok because I don’t know a lodging from a knee from a carling, it’s. Amazing I can build a model at all 😂🤣

6 hours ago, hollowneck said:

the deck strips will be supplied from a good quality, tightly grained stock.

Not sure why you’d think otherwise given Chris’ track record. 

7 hours ago, chris watton said:

Indefatigable is designed with individual deck planking and hull planking in mind

Makes perfect sense for a model this size and caliber. 

12 hours ago, Saburo said:

Your build here Glenn is adding more fuel to the fire

Welcome to the hobby and thanks for all the likes.

FYI, you can PM one of the moderators and ask them to add the NRG logo to your profile to display like mine does. It serves as a badge showing you support the hobby.

That’s a lot of complex work done well Bob.

Those look really good, and I know represent a whole lot of work. 

Leave the back edge of the char on bulkheads forward of mid-ship and the front edge of char on those rear of midships, that way you’re sure not to lose the proper hull shape. You may need to do more shaping at the bow and stern, use a very thin plank and slide it up and down 3-4 bulkheads at a time to check for a smooth run at that the plank makes contact with all the bulkheads.  
 

You may find as you plank you didn’t take enough, so adjust it then or if you took too much you can add shims to correct.  It’s all good, relax and have fun. 

37 minutes ago, Chuck said:

all fun in the end.

Yep

These deadeyes will never see rigging so to me it’s more how they compliment the model. The dark brown is too severe a contrast and the sienna doesn’t seem to match. So for me, and my Winnie in the far distant future when I get there will be left natural. At least that’s my thought for now. I’d consider black but I’d have to see how that looked up close. 
 

The acrylic sounds very promising. Having made them from metal for Cheerful I can’t say I was looking for to metal work in the quantity needed for Winchelsea. Maybe offer a sample pack so we can see first hand before we commit …

On 3/29/2022 at 10:41 AM, javajohn said:

color of the interior of the block and the sheave

A number #2 pencil lead has a nice effect, that’s the recommended technique for Winchelsea and what I used. 

Hopefully your diligently at work still…

8 hours ago, FrankWouts said:

plank master

Thanks Frank, but  no more than you and the many Winnie builders.

Modeler’s Central wants $167 for the Amati Keel Clamp which can be had multiple othe places for $79. I wouldn’t buy or trust anything from them with that kind of lopsided pricing. 
 

The best place for starter and intermediate kits is our own Chris Watton’s Vanguard Models, for advanced kits our own Chuck Passaro’s Syren Ship Model Company. 
 

I get most of my supplies from Amazon but even with international shipping I get my Admiralty paints and specialty items from the very reliable Cornwall Boats in the UK.

Don’t let the old guard push you off kits, historical accuracy is nice but sometimes - especially starting out - you just want to enjoy building something fun.

I’m sure you plan to take the balsa down. The bulkheads need to all be in contact with the planks. The balsa just helps hold the shape. Also need to be sure it’s below the bulkhead tops as well, it doesn’t help anything there. 
 

Excellent work Frank, it looks nice and tight.

11 hours ago, KirbysLunchBox said:

Beautiful

Thank you. I appreciate the comment. 
 

7 hours ago, Theodosius said:

Phantastic

Thank you for saying so.

18 hours ago, Paul Le Wol said:

keep a tab open to Glenn

So there’s an open tab for me at a bar somewhere 😂. I’m glad my log is helpful. Yours too will be an excellent reference for future Cheerful builders. I wish I’d thought of drilling the holes for the stirrups, they were a bear to line up.  

Nice work, clean and sharp, both the model and the photography.