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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I might suggest an expanded definition for a ruler: RULER: A blameable device for measuring twice, cutting once, then finding the piece too short .
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Why masts are square at the top?
druxey replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Good question. Real wooden masts and spars are first cut to a square cross-section, then octagonal, then sixteen sided before being rounded off. Some sections are left square so that other things (such as mast caps) attached to them can't skew around. -
NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
druxey replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lovely! -
Harvey: The Rope is a group of extremely talented Japanese ship modelers. See: https://blog.agesofsail.com/2018/03/07/fantastic-work-of-japanese-ship-modelers-the-rope-tokyo/ and: https://theropetokyo-en.jimdofree.com/about-1/jsmcc/
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Well done so far!
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Certainly a thorny problem, Claire. Are there any members of The Rope that you could ask technical questions of?
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OK, so the Japanese cedars could easily provide planks of 100 feet length. I'll buy into that, then! One reason there may not be too much discussion on this thread is that most of us have little knowledge of Japanese historical ship construction. I, for one, look in to learn from you, Claire.
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Allan: The Veritas system is for full-size tools. For miniature ones you either have to hand-hone (tricky!) or design your own honing guide/fixtures. Usually 25 degrees is my preferred angle as it's an all-purpose one.
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Whether water or oil stones, or diamond grit for sharpening is a matter of personal taste (I use water stones), but a good sharpening system like Veritas is a must, in my opinion. I could never get a truly sharp edge before I bought a sharpening guide. You know whether the edge is sharp by the sound it makes as you slice through hardwood. It should make a nice crunch like cutting a crisp apple.
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Interesting stuff, Claire! And already kit-bashing your model at this early stage. I'm surprised at the Souvenirs statement that planks 30m long were one-piece. That's 100 feet, which seems unlikely.
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When using a well sharpened chisel, to prevent breakout on the far side of the cut, you should a) cut thin slices off and b) use a hardwood block underneath to support the part. Your photos show that you are getting the hang of things!
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It's a not very good knock-off of the Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832. And not exactly 'HMS' either!
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One of the proposed alternatives to the Panama Canal
druxey replied to bruce d's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Fascinating stuff! -
Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Don't be frightened, stuglo! Take it one piece at a time. If you look at it all at once, it's certainly daunting. One small step at a time.... -
There are a number of items of interest to the MSW readership in a coming auction. Check out lots 6, 12, and 14 to 17. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/26775/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=WK47_202125112021&cid=22129756#/aa1=1&MR1_length=317&w1=list&m1=1 I have no direct connection with Bonham's.
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Style is definitely post 1800.
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M. Jaques Guydal: En anglais, SVP! Beautiful progress. Love the finial - or is it a weather vane?
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Jewelers' saw or scroll saw, there is still no substitute for a well sharpened chisel to cut a clean, tight fitting joint. (Greg might disagree, but he has heavy milling power at his disposal!)
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A little wood filler and sanding will make the breast hook joints much more acceptable! Otherwise looking good so far.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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Note about pawls: The rotating flat variety was in use by the Royal Navy until very late in the 18th century, and only then superseded by the drop pawl mechanism.
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I find the rainwater theory doesn't - wait for it! - hold water. This arrangement is on the lower deck, not on a weather deck. Mark's hypothesis is more likely.
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Yes, it's always good to test anything new on scrap material first! Unless, of course, you like living dangerously....
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During this period the ensign staff was held by two items. At the base was a roller with a blind hole for the foot of the staff. A block of wood on each side of the roller acted as its bearings. This allowed the staff to be rotated out of the way of the gaff and/or boom. To keep the staff in place, a capsquare was mounted on the fore side of the tafferel to retain it.
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