druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Note to Alan as well: on smaller vessels where contemporary framing plans exist, I've seen nearly all with chocked toptimbers, but there is the occasional scarph indcated. -
Questions, questions! Alan: I almost never, ever use CA. PVA is what I'm using on this model. Eberhard: I've never really got into 3D modeling since a frustrating brush with AutoCad early in the '00's. Greg: If it were a clinker hull, it could come off any any point for inspection. I'd rather not chance it with the small gluing areas involved on a carvel hull.
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The garboard completed both sides and pins removed, the second strake was next. In the first photo you can see two of the various hold-down strategies used. To spile planking at this scale is difficult to do the traditional way using a set of compasses. I now use Scotch brand matte removable tape. I lay a strip over the model and dot every ¼" or so. The tape is stripped off and laid on the stock (photo). The side to be joined to the existing strake is cut first and as accurately as possible. I use a sharp scalpel and ship's curve for this. The other side is cut a little wide of the marks. The plank is then fitted and fettled if necessary before refining the free edge. It is then shaped and glued into place. Once a strake is completed I sight along it to see if there is any waviness and file the edge smooth before continuing with the next strake. Now on to the second strake, port side. The process outlined above will continue until planking is completed.
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Bob: I don't have an answer to that other than I've never wished to test many hours of work to destruction! I agree that a three-piece plug would solve the issue, but at this size the extra work involved is simply not worth it. The last strake will be added after removal from the plug. This, however, is some time off yet!
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I love my Castroviejo corneal scissors (5)! The vintage/antique watchmakers' hand vice (2) is also a really useful tool. Haven't had as much luck with the sliding ring version; it always slips when I don't want it to! Its advantage is that it has small jaws.
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Generally a 3:1 ratio is about right. The chock maximum depth is ⅔ of the molded thickness of the frame and each arm of the chock is 3 times the maximum depth. The same ratios apply to most scarph joints as well.
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Keith: You remind me of an anecdote about Oscar Wilde. He was holding forth at some gathering making his usual brilliant remarks, after one of which someone said, "Oh, I wish I'd thought of that!" To which Oscar replied, "You will, my dear boy, you will!"
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Stain looks nice. The moveable centerboard is optional anyway!
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Another good reason to visit the AGO once it re-opens! Of course, readers here will head down to the ship model collection first!
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I agree that a strap or plate for the backstay would be appropriate, Mark.
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I've not seen pentagonal section broaches here, just the four-sided variety,
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The two lines of the poem on the banner in the original Cutty Sark stern design read: (And roars out,) "Weel done, Cutty-sark!" And in an instant all was dark.
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So, what is your conclusion, Mark? Thanks for the clarification about the altered port positions; I'd suspected that that was the case.
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Broaches are tapered square-sectioned steel tools that ream out a hole to fractionally enlarge it. One turns them by hand.
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Odd. The fine Bellona model in the NMM shows the mizen chains as 2 and 4, not 3 and 3 as above. (The block model indicates the same arrangement.) I do know that Polyphemus, 64 guns, had a small stool for the mizen topmast backstays: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/81287.html Perhaps there are other examples to study.
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Another solution is to enlarge the holes using miniature broaches.
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Update: planking has commenced! The stock for this was sanded to thickness (1/64") using the Byrnes' thickness sander. That done, I needed to stabilize the keel laterally while applying the garboard strakes. These will make the spine rigid once both sides are in place. I had made the mistake of not doing this once on a previous boat and ended up with a laterally curved keel. Not nice. The twist on the plank 'blank' was done using water and the heating iron. Once it had set, the width at different points was marked, the plank removed and trimmed. It was then glued in place. The aft plank in the strake was processed in a similar fashion. Next will be the opposite garboard. From here on it will be a repetitive process until all 36 planks are in place.
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Bruce: They will be, very shortly! After the shell is removed, a keelson will also run along the tops of them.
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So, next was to disassemble things and wax the plug. The grooves for the five frames were waxed using a micro-applicator. Replacing the spine on the plug, I shaped the transom. By filing it to shape this way, the shape and changing bevel is automatically correct. A problem I had with a previous boat was that the keel bowed slightly sideways because there was no groove on the plug. I carefully sighted along the boat and added temporary pins to ensure that it was straight. Finally, the boat is ready to plank! I've been preparing leaves of Castello 1/64" thick - a scale ¾" - for planking. Next will be the garboard planks.
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Tell Me Why This Is A Bad Idea ( If it is )
druxey replied to Gregory's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The issue is, whether you are a pro or amateur, saw meeting flesh does not discriminate! -
I see you are using a watchmaker's slotting file, Richard. A great tool to have but, may I suggest, not he best tool for cutting scores. Lay the frame flat, as you have done (after marking out accurately) and, in the case of the upper sill, make a downward vertical cut using a very well sharpened chisel. Turn the frame around and make a series of shallow paring cuts to form the score. For the lower birdsmouth make the first vertical cut across the middle of the score, then pare away at an angle toward the middle from each side. Practice on scrap first to get the technique down.
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One often is boxed in by thinking 'If the original was metal, I have to use metal to make it too.' No, you don't. Tape is one solution suggested above. Another is very thin card strips, prepainted. I've often used them and a neat joint is easy. Overlay the ends, then cut through both with a very sharp blade to butt join them. Drilling for an eyebolt in card is easy as well.
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Well, for instance, fitting the garboard accurately at bow and stern is much simpler with two planks. One can focus on a good fit at the forefoot and deadwood separately without concerning oneself with overall plank length. Trimming both pieces last to get a neat butt is comparatively easy.
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Castello (sp) is a South American hardwood that is a good substitute for true boxwood (buxus). Also sometimes called Bermuda boxwood, Castello is a paler yellow than true boxwood when cut, but mellows in color with age.
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