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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Same old story - you get what you pay for. Please consider investing in the best you can afford. If you buy cheap , you will need to replace and junk the cheapy anyway.
  2. druxey
    Brass needs to be softened before it can be 'molded' - in this case riveted over. On a heat-proof surface you need to heat the rod to cherry -red (easier to see in dim light) and let it air-cool. This softening process is called annealing. Metal is much easier to cut and form after annealing. You can use a mini butane torch for this or (a bit of overkill!) a regular propane torch. Only cut a piece of rod a little bit longer than the finished length. In the above photo the piece is much too long. It should only protrude about 1/64" longer on each side before tapping the ends over on a hard surface. And yes, a set of broaches is a very useful thing to have around! Never force metal into wood. But you know that already. For cutting, a razor saw works well on softened brass. A small jewelers' hammer is another very useful item to have.
  3. druxey
    PVA only works on porous materials such as wood. For metals, you have to use either epoxy (my preference) or cyanoacrylic glues.
  4. druxey
    No need to PhotoShop that picture! Nice clean work on the boxing joint.
  5. druxey
    Might I suggest non-ferrous metal? Brass wire or, if you want really soft wire, copper. That will avoid any corrosion issues later on.
  6. druxey
    Lovely work. If you can buy a duodecimal scale rule online that has a 1:48 scale on it, that would save you time and headaches!
  7. druxey
    I see your favorite solution in the background! Coming along nicely. I like the way you use the overhead gantry to ensure the vertical orientation of the beam.
  8. druxey
    Bulwarks look great.
  9. druxey
    Just catching up. Her lines are so sweet. Congratulations on a great trophy. What does one have to do to win it?
  10. druxey
    Looks A1 to me.
  11. druxey
    Looks perfect to me. I always think it's a pity that all that accurate cutting work will be hidden later....
  12. druxey
    Off to a great start!
  13. druxey
    One way to round a square section stick is to gently whittle off the corners at 45 degrees with a sharp blade first. Then take a small strip of sandpaper (150 grit will do), loop it with the grit inside and hold both ends between your left finger and thumb (if you are right handed. The stick is inserted in the loop and moved up and down, revolving it a little every few strokes. Keep the sandpaper loop fairly tight around the stick while you do this.
  14. druxey
    I'm fortunate in that my clients are discerning people. Many have built models themselves and are aware and appreciative of what goes into one. For me, the pleasure is in the building and problem-solving rather than the keeping! So, no sadness. Well, perhaps a twinge of nostalgia for the first professional model I built.... Thank you again, everyone, for your interest, comments, questions and encouragement.
  15. druxey
    Cross-lock style is the answer.
  16. druxey
    True, Maury. But I resisted all temptation to pre-fair anything.
  17. druxey
    Um, if you are woolding, it is far easier to apply the rope before adding the hoops. You'll see why when you come to completing the rope turns. I assume you'll add the tapers to cross and trestle trees? The new bibbs angle (or lack of it) looks much better!
  18. druxey
    The teenaged version of you had done a very neat job of the original fore course, including the bonnet. The new robands look as if they are separate items rather than a continuous spiral. Nice!
  19. druxey
    Thanks again, everyone, for your kind and positive remarks. It was a fun and challenging project to do. The model will be leaving port and going to her new owner shortly.
  20. druxey
    Nice strategy using tape to space the floor boards! She's looking sharp.
  21. druxey
    Welcome and have fun building her!
  22. druxey
    Mast lengths usually include full length from the top of tenon on mast head, but not the tenon on the step. Don't ask why!
  23. druxey
    It's tempting to pre-fair frames, but.... However, I'm sure that there were occasional shims in a real ship as well!
  24. druxey
    For small diameter rod, I've had good success using a sharp scalpel blade. Place the rod on a flat surface and roll it under the blade using a little pressure so that the rod is scored all around. Then simply snap the rod at the line.
  25. druxey
    Stern davits were not really a thing until around 1800.

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