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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Could you mold and cast from the 'good' queen post?
  2. druxey
    Aaand...he's under way! Nice start, Michael.
  3. druxey
    Yes, you had better plan on paper or risk utter frustration! I might observe that the lowest ceiling planks creep up the bow much too far. The outermost planks should end in the vicinity of the foremost cant frame.That will simplify the congestion up the stemson a bit!
  4. druxey
    Moving on, the details at the bow have been completed. I noticed on the photographs of the actual boat that the flanges on the inner sides of the hawse pipes were larger than those on the outer sides. A protective metal strap extends down the face of the stem as well. I'm now working on the wash strakes. First the stub timberheads were sanded to uniform height. Short lengths of plank are being added and then reinforcing pieces of mini in-rail. There are pieces of timber with a gap between tholes 1 and 2 on the prototype. I have no idea what their purpose was, but copied them here.
  5. druxey
    The way to remember it is that the lower deadye looks like a skull and the upper one is the mirror of it.
  6. druxey
    No, Don, ships of that era had that turn of the clamp aft just as you have it. That is correct, strange as it may look!
  7. druxey
    Nice demonstration, dafi. If you are planning on actually manning the capstan in your model, remember that they gripped the bars thumbs upward and palms towards them. (This was to avoid broken forearms should the capstan kick back.) So often the wrong grip is shown, like pushing a baby stroller or bike.
  8. druxey
    Some of you have too little faith in me, others too much!!! Thanks anyway, Toni.
  9. druxey
    Interesting preventative method, Alan! Well thought out. I'd eight-square and round off manually rather than put it in the lathe, but to each his own.
  10. druxey
    Continuing, I made and fitted the bow sections of the wash strake. These were spiled as I had the hull planking, cut and glued in.. The next apart of construction was a nail-biter. The upper bow breast hook and extensions had to be carefully shaped to fit properly, glued in, and then drilled for the hawse holes. I only had one shot at getting the holes in the correct places on either side of the bow. There was virtually no margin for error. Too high, and the drill would break out, too low and the hole would pierce the rub rail that has yet to be installed. Fortunately, all went well. The holes were drilled under size, then slight corrections made with a round escapement file. At this point, the stem was bevelled on each side and the inside bow neatened up.
  11. druxey
    Now things start to get interesting!
  12. druxey
    Brass antiquing agent, Tom.
  13. druxey
    No, the reinforcing piece is on the prototype original, Shipman. It is Plan A, o, ye of little faith!
  14. druxey
    Thank you, Giampiero! I forgot to mention that the transom is now trimmed to its final shape and a reinforcing piece attached to the fore side. Next is the wash strake.
  15. druxey
    More finishing details at the stern; a step and a hoop for an ensign staff. The photo I have of this area shows more metalwork, but it looks as if this was added later by the museum for the anti-hogging arrangement.
  16. druxey
    They look more like piranhas!
  17. druxey
    Exactly, Michael! My party trick is to cut an exact 45 degree angle without a protractor using the reflected image on the back of the chisel.
  18. druxey
    Thank you for looking in and for your kind words. More progress soon!
  19. druxey
    Looks pretty neatly done to this point. There will aways be minor tweaks when building a model.
  20. druxey
    Use threads instead of battens with a spot of PVA on the frames. To adjust them, wet your finger and roll the thread up or down the frames as required,
  21. druxey
    Actually, the rounding above deck is easy. Leave the corners square until after the deck is laid. A sharp chisel and a 45 degree cut just to the deck and a horizontal one at deck level. Then a few strokes of a sanding stick and you are done!
  22. druxey
    The many stub toptimbers have been cut and dry fitted. Their shapes vary along the length of the boat. I cut them using my favorite tool; a ¼" chisel. Using a larger blade makes seeing the cutting angles easier. Next will be refining the fit and gluing the toptimbers in.
  23. druxey
    You must be barking mad! Welcome to the club, Alan.
  24. druxey
    Yes, Shipman, often thwarts were set into scores in the risers. This particular boat did not. I think Eberhard addressed your other points very well. Horst's model is a beauty. Thank you, Eberhard!
  25. druxey
    Not a close yet, Shipman! There's a lot more to do yet. Thank you for your kind remarks. The brackets are standards, the name for inverted knees. It appears that the thwarts in this boat are fixed. The standards create a strong connection between the sides of the boat, preventing 'spread', both in the model and the real thing. Your comment on footrests or stretchers is interesting. They are not often shown in draughts of boats, but I'm sure they were normally there. If you think about the action of rowing; if you can brace your feet you can effect a much more powerful stroke and conserve energy.

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