Jump to content
HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! (Only 53 donations so far out of 49,000 members - C'mon guys!) ×

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,317
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Yes, those 'cross-under' lodging knees are tricky! I notice that the wood grain of the knees run parallel to one arm. They are stronger if you have the grain run diagonally across them so that neither arm has cross-grain wood. Your model is coming along nicely.
  2. Some of use learn in different ways from others. Have you checked out the other planking tutorials on this site? Perhaps reading them might make things clearer for you as well.
  3. I wonder if a master hatch model can be made, molded and then repetitive units cast. Could save a lot of work!
  4. Sweet lines indeed, JD. You will probably find the hull framing quite stable once a band of planking near the sheer is applied.
  5. Well, that seems to indicate a late introduction of gain. I wonder when this innovation occurred and where? Thanks to Bolin for the excellent photo and archaeological evidence of a stepped rabbet. I stand corrected!
  6. Rigging square sails didn't change a lot over time. Again, at such a small scale I'd glue the edge of the jib sails to their stays.
  7. Thanks, Mark. I didn't realize that they were not universally openable files.
  8. The size of the casting would have been a great technical achievement in its time.
  9. Usually sails are attached all the way along their yards by short lines called robands. At such a small scale I'd simply use a thin line of glue.
  10. Dear Steven. I hope my comments aren't too much of a pain! The issue of planks at bow and stern is because the overlap has to disappear by what is known as the gain. It is achieved by one of two methods. One, a rolling bevel is cut on the adjacent plank edges over the last foot or so into the rabbet (the bevel is 45 degrees at the extreme ends, so that the clinker has become carvel), Or, two, an increasing half-lap is cut into adjacent plank edges to give the same result. A simple example of the easier first option is attached. Illustration 4.psd Dory photo 21a.psd
  11. True: it is the set-up that takes most of the time to do. Then you can churn out gratings quite quickly.
  12. You can dissolve white glue and acrylic medium with rubbing alcohol.
  13. A little spot of dilute white glue or acrylic matt medium will secure the hanks for you.
  14. I've never seen upper stern framing constructed off the model before; an interesting approach! Lovely work, as usual.
  15. Welcome, Jared. Check out Model Shipwrights of Niagara if you are near this end of the province. Check it out anyway!
×
×
  • Create New...