druxey
-
Posts
12,937 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
A very impressive result, especially considering the scale. Well done!- 2,590 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- heller
- soleil royal
- (and 9 more)
-
SilkSpan is a form of paper. The fibers run randomly , which contribute to its strength.
-
I didn't realise from the previous elevations that 13 A and 14A were the curved half beams. As most of the stress on these is from the mast and sails, it would be lateral rather than compressive. An heretical thought: was perhaps hanging knee 15 omitted altogether?
-
Welcome aboard, Vladislav!
-
Almost exactly what I envisaged, Mark. A workable solution! The hanging knee in this position does not have to be so extreme: the surfaces that are near horizontal can be a few inches higher and still provide room for the bolts to the beam.
-
Are you sure that the hanging knee off 15 is to the aft side of the port? A little fettling of the standard's tupper arm , then the shorter route would be for it to locate between the standard and hanging knee 14A. If I were master shipwright I might be tempted to place 14A forward of the beam as well....
-
Nice progress, Gaetan!
-
Looking at the photos, I keep forgetting that this is at 1:96, not 1:48 scale! Simply lovely work, Giampiero.
-
I suspect through the standard in such a case. The bolt needs to be ithrough solid wood, not just planking!
-
SilkSpan actually has pretty good wet strength, much, much greater than tissue!
-
Just catching up with your progress, Ohla. Looking lovely! Getting the sheer of the wale at the bow exactly right is difficult, but you've nailed it.
-
Stitching sails with sewing machine
druxey replied to Jorge Hedges's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Might I suggest that, for a scale model, stitching is not the best or easiest option? However, fine the stitching, it will always be way over scale. Also, as you've discovered, stitching a straight line is very tricky. Let me suggest another possibility: First, gently stretch the uncut material over plastic wrap. Give it a dilute coat of acrylic matt medium to slightly stiffen it. Also, when you cut the material, it will not fray. When it is dry, mark out the shape of the sail in pencil, then another set of lines outside this to give the 'hem'. Draw pencil lines the width of the sail cloths apart or, if this is at a large scale, a double set of lines. Using a straightedge this should be easy! Cut the sail out to the outer lines. Turn over the edges and either glue them down with white glue or matt medium. Detail the sail to taste and you are done. -
The cigarette cards I referred to earlier are shown here (Black Prince is bottom row far left).
-
In post #31 the armed, crowned figure striking with his sword is Black Prince. One of a series of Players' cigarette cards of figureheads features this.
-
Syren Servo-Matic mouse making attachment
druxey replied to WalrusGuy's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The issue with making an authentic looking mouse is that it is woven, not spun. An uneven number of longitudinal threads have line wrapped around them, but in an in-and-out fashion. The only assistance by a serving machine would be to slowly revolve the mouse as you weave. It's a labor-intensive exercise! There are other ways of making a reasonably good looking mouse, as I'm sure you can find elsewhere on this site. -
If you need blocks, Chuck S., you'd better book your order early now!
-
Welcome, neighbour! There is at least one other member of the forum also in Welland.
-
Is there a stockpiling of blocks like toilet paper in this pandemic??? Bizarre.
-
'Shoal' was a variant of the word 'sole' which, if you think about it, makes perfect sense in this context!
-
MicroLux/Micro-make power chisel
druxey replied to wlell's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Another possibility is a well-sharpened chisel held bevel side down. -
Reducing mast circumference without a lathe
druxey replied to Charlie pal's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You cut the spar four-square first. Lay out the shape on one side of your blank and cut it out to profile. The turn it 90 degrees and re-mark the profile. Cut to shape again to get a square but tapered piece. Next, mark the spar at intervals using a 7:10:7 scale. (This is covered elsewhere on this forum.) With the spar held in a 45 degree 'V' jig, it is cut to eight square (octagonal). From there it is easy to round off and finish the spar. -
Lovely image and work, Ab and Emiel! I can almost smell the black powder from the evening gun on the twilight air....
-
You're getting there.... I find it always seems to take forever until I've rounded the turn of the bilge.
- 740 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Tudor
- restoration
- (and 4 more)
Our Emblem ®
