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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The stopper came undone, Chris? That's a new one for me! I'm sorry but I laughed; it was one of those "If anything can possibly go wrong..." things. Anyway, I'm glad it's successfully fixed now. Looks good.
  2. druxey
    Why the need to seal at all?
  3. druxey
    Every ship was slightly different, even in the same class. The 'as launched' plans are accurate for the specific ship, as a record of its actual construction. This would be very useful when it came time to repair the vessel.
  4. druxey
    We feel your pain, Chris. Is it simply undoing the laniards, swapping the shrouds over and untangling them, then re-reeving the laniards? If so, it isn't that bad, surely?
  5. druxey
    Welcome aboard!
  6. druxey
    Whenever glueing a thin wood piece using a glue with water content, dampen the opposite side first to counteract the tendency to bow or cup.
  7. druxey
    And, if not, the quarter piece would cover and protect the plank ends.
  8. druxey
    Thanks for this, Bruce!
  9. druxey
    Sweet!
  10. druxey
    The models may have omitted the rabbetted fashion piece as it is a pain to make (I know this from experience!) It involves a continuously changing rabbet angle on the fore side, and another for the transom planks aft. I'm sure that the real ships were fitted this way, as exposed end grain wood deteriorates rapidly when exposed.
  11. druxey
    ClipperFan: the usual underlay (again, for naval vessels) was tarred felt.
  12. druxey
    It appears that merchant practice in coppering (Muntz as you point out) differed from that used by the navy.
  13. druxey
    Feather out? Do you mean make gains until the planks are flush with each other into the rabbet? If so, that is the correct way it was done. Also, there was a rabbet in the fashion piece to protect the plank ends from rot.
  14. druxey
    It was common practice (in naval dockyards, at least) to launch, check for any leaky seams, drydock, seal, then copper the bottom. Otherwise it would be harder to detect the source of water ingress and a pain to remove the copper to caulk the offending seam(s.)
  15. druxey
    You will have as many varying opinions as replies here! I've used all the usual makes mentioned and they are all fine. However, for ease of cleaning and no easily damaged long needles, you might consider Aztek as an alternative.
  16. druxey
    Many happy hours sailing her, JD! Lovely looking hull.
  17. druxey
    Hmm. Gives new meaning to the expression 'knights errant'. Looking very good now.
  18. druxey
    Now you know the meaning of the word 'druxey': rotten to the core. It is a form of wood rot found in the shipyard: spongy white veins inside logs.
  19. druxey
    Yellow cedar might also be suitable for you.
  20. druxey
    Are you reeving the laniard in the correct direction or is your line not 'hardened'?
  21. druxey
    I always thought canaries were yellow, not salmon colored! (Another 'druxey correction')? Seriously, I'm very flattered.
  22. druxey
    We await the results of the Museum's findings!
  23. druxey
    Seems like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut. None of my masts and spars have seen a lathe. It is not difficult to start with square stock marked out (don't need a four jaw chuck!), cut it eight-square except fo the square sections, then round off the parts that need it, using strips of sandpaper back and forth until the 'flats' just disappear. You don't need a lathe with a long bed ($$$), 4 jaw chuck ($$), steady ($$), filing rest ($$) or other paraphernalia. Just pencil and rule, sharp chisel and sandpaper. There; I just saved you a ton of money!
  24. druxey
    Does look like rotating ball joints. I've not seen those before. It would be an advantage to point them down so any overflow would not go onto the deck.
  25. druxey
    Nicely done and welcome!

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