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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Ziemlich erstaunlich! As everyone has said, outstanding work, Johann. What did you use to imitate leather?
  2. It all depends on a particular piece of wood and the visual effect you like.
  3. The earlier you consider and make the arrangements for the pedestals, the easier it is.
  4. Check the planking tutorials on this site for the best advice. And welcome!
  5. So, next you'll be designing paper models!!!
  6. Both styles of coppering are correct, but the angled rows at the waterline were from about 1760's to about 1800, and the parallel rows at the waterline were a later style. The earlier style usually had a light batten of wood tacked on along the top to protect the pointed ends of copper sheet.
  7. Patches can look darker if light is coming through from behind them, Radek.
  8. I use SilkSpan and dilute acrylic paint. Weathering should be relatively easy, and all painting done before shaping the sails. I've found, painting flags the same way, they can subsequently be wetted and shaped. No starch required!
  9. ...and, you're off to the races with it! I guess it wasn't so bad after all?
  10. For a start, the figures you you read as '0' are in fact the old script way of writing '8'. It appears sort of sideways on. Hence, not 22 10, but 22 18, etc. A yard is 3' 0", so 22 18 translates as 67' 6". 'Excl' is, as you say, excluding. I believe that the length of the mast head included the tenon, (but not the tenon at the heel of the mast) but need to check that. One needs to dig a bit to answer the other questions you have. Normally poles are integral to topmasts in lieu of a topgallant mast, or (as in your illustration) is the extension to the topgallant mast, but not to lower masts. The exception might be a one-piece mast. It is possible that this is what was intended. If that were the case, the mast is a single stick, perhaps the part above the stops being called a topgallant rather than a topmast. Does any of this help?
  11. That seems to be your answer, although I like the typically French comment; "It should be noted that these could equally be used to hoist barrels of wine.”
  12. That drawing shows a trunnion-style carronade, rather than the lug type, on a light carriage.
  13. No date, but probably the late 1790's. It was apparently experimentally used in Wolverine, ex Rattler, in 1798. (Text, page 207).
  14. The nearest carriage I can find is in Caruana, Volume II on page 208. It has a two-part trucked (wheeled) carriage. All four trucks are 6" in diameter. The lower part, 4' 0" long, is wedge shaped, higher at the aft end. The upper part, also wedge shaped but with the narrow end aft, can slide up this inclined plane. This part has conventional steps. The illustration shows a 24 lb carronade mounted. This non-recoil carriage was invented by the same Captain Schank that invented the sliding keel.
  15. I'm sorry to read of your situation, Mark. I hope that things will improve for you sooner rather than later. In the meantime, my best wishes to you.
  16. Dowmer: actually many contemporary models show the figure with head turned to starboard to a greater or lesser degree (lions excepted). It's later half-length ones that look straight ahead. So the casting resembles the original model quite closely, except that the head there is tilted as well as turned.
  17. It is very doubtful that Victory of 1765 had brass ordnance. The previous Victory of 1737 certainly did - she was fully armed with brass - but all that was lost when she went down. (Perhaps this has created the confusion, with two ships of the same name?) Very few guns have been salvaged: most are on the sea bed. The cost of brass vs iron was considerable, and the government was not about to sink large amounts into more brass!
  18. Sorry to read of your family concerns and hope the outcome is favorable, Ab. Lovely evocative work yet again; those figures on the jacht are delightful, especially the gentleman smoking a clay pipe!
  19. Yes, I use Humbrol; but any enamel paint will work. I've not tried acrylic paint, so can't speak to that.
  20. Very impressive paperwork. Congrats on completing what was obviously a very challenging model, Dan. So, what's next?
  21. You could also try a little sanding sealer on the end grain before using dilute paint. That should stop bleeding. Unfortunately, this trick won't work for stain, as sealer will block it!
  22. I agree with Y.T. Paint the paper or card to match the wood color.
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