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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Yes, very similar to Alan's rendering. I can send you images via PM.
  2. druxey
    Looking at English Sea Ordnance: The Age of the System by Adrian Caruana, the pattern used at that time period (Armstrong-Frederick and 1732 Regulation) had a small ornamental ring around the equator of the cascabel and the muzzle flare was slighter larger and distinctly more concave than in your illustrations above.
  3. druxey
    Nicely done and illustrated, Ab. A note for folk who prefer to use water-based paint such as acrylic on card models. If you do so, the card or paper will buckle. To avoid this, simply spray the model or parts with universal grey primer first to seal the surface. I learned this trick years ago when building card/paper maquettes for stage designs.
  4. druxey
    Very impressive, Igor. Usually I don't much care for this type of model, but what you have achieved here is outstanding.
  5. druxey
    Formidable, monsieur! Very impressive decorative detail, Michel.
  6. druxey
    The line tension discussion is interesting. I wet my (long fiber cotton) lines before hardening them: this lengthens them somewhat, then they contract as they dry under tension. After that, they seem stable. The exceptions are the cabled lines. The heavier ones do slacken off noticeably when humidity is lower.
  7. druxey
    Awesome indeed!
  8. druxey
    An interesting solution to the problem, Dan. What gold paint did you use, if I may ask?
  9. druxey
    Very nice results, Johann!
  10. druxey
    From the description, a clump block is what was earlier termed a 'thick' block. There were regularly proportioned blocks, as well as 'thin' blocks. The latter were, as implied, thinner for their length and were reeved with a lighter line than the regular version. Presumably 'thick' or 'clump' blocks carried lines of larger size than their 'normal' counterparts.
  11. druxey
    Nicely put, Mark!
  12. druxey
    You extend the lines in a smooth curve until they reach the bow rabbet.
  13. druxey
    The usual way to use rubber cement is to coat both surfaces to be glued, allow the solvent to dry, then press the parts together like contact cement. Until you press firmly, there is wiggle room to adjust. A piece of crepe rubber works just as well as your finger! A word of caution: after some years the rubber deteriorates and turns the card brown as well as loses adhesiveness.
  14. druxey
    Very impressive. Would dampening the houtbord help prevent it splitting while shaping it?
  15. druxey
    The models I saw did not have any moulded shape under the drip edge, Mark.
  16. druxey
    Nice internal strops, Michael!
  17. druxey
    Mark: a small point about the knuckle moulding (between lower and upper counters): the lower edge of this moulding sits about an inch below the lower counter plank surface to form a drip edge. I discovered this from examining contemporary museum models. In the last photo it looks to sit about an inch above the planking.
  18. druxey
    Good suggestion, Ed. Also, might I recommend respiratory protection when dusting with talc?
  19. druxey
    Very informative and educational, as well as entertaining, Ab! Thank you.
  20. druxey
    Congratulations on your anniversary and a happy, healthy, year ahead, Alan!
  21. druxey
    Looks terrific, Michael. Take care when working aloft!
  22. druxey
    The lower photo (repeated) looks about right. I believe that it was Longridge who stated that this troublesome piece was shaped from solid rather than steam bent. I found that I had to slide that triangular piece in from above (if the hull is right side up!) and aft, down and forward, for a nice fit.
  23. druxey
    That seems weird! As you say, there is something odd going on.
  24. druxey
    The kit is just trying to give the impression that Allan's posting shows. The 'netting' in the photo is not it!
  25. druxey
    Impressive, Dan! Well done. Aren't you going to build the rest of the Yamaha models as well?

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