druxey

Perhaps a dab of glue on the line before you cut it might help.

Not juggling much, are you, Clare? All those models look lovely.

At least the thief had really good taste....  Coming along well, Chris.

Threaded rods are a much better option! And I don't recall that the original ship had permanent clamps....

Beautifully framed!

I completely agree with HH's remarks.

I agree that high relief rather than 'in the round' would be more likely here. 

Your story-telling is as entertaining as your construction notes! I use a single point light source from beyond the piece I'm carving to throw the shadows in the correct direction. Diffuse light or from other directions is not helpful.

Beautifully done!

Beautifully done. Thank you for your comments on tagua nuts. I was given some many years ago but never tried cutting or carving it. Sounds tricky to use.

The metal parts should first be spray primed before painting them (see post #19). This gives more 'grip' for the paint layer. Wood also benefits from priming first, as suggested.

Uniform coat tails are now much better! Some buttons, perhaps? See:

https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-71256

Nice going, as usual, Chuck. BTW, those are not pissdales, but the heads! I think one would want discharge tubes for sure....

Eberhard; that is exactly why I never acquired a single roller rest!

Pat: I hope the right cocktail of beta blockers can be found for you.

Good advances there, Mark! I made a considerable quantity of projection drawings for the stern galleries. (This was 30 years ago before the various computer graphic programs we now have were available!) I found the sane way was to expand in a single plane at a time. For instance, first correcting the tilt of the stern tier of lights, then flattening the round aft. Of course, you can do this in seconds and a few clicks now!

Cheers,

D

Coming along nicely. Keep your pencil mark-out lines as thin as possible; a thick line can lead to poor fitting joints. A harder lead (3H or higher) will keep a much sharper point. A clutch lead holder and sharpener such as below is ideal for this kind of work.

Welcome back! An interesting approach, that. I've only seen single roller file guides. I can see the value of a double.

I think so, Chris. The tails come to a little above the knee. Check contemporary full-length paintings.

Late to this discussion, but it triggers memories of many years ago when I was building Polyphemus, 64 guns of 1782. I also had a time puzzling out this geometry - particularly the jog aft at quarter deck level. This is not immediately apparent in the sheer plan. It looks like "By George, he's got it!"

John's advice is right on the mark. One of the great things about model building is that one is always learning and figuring out new or better ways to do things. 

Also, the length of the tailcoat?

I'm thoroughly enjoying watching your progress on this model, Baker.

Yes, please stay sane. I can work to ½" a scale inch at 1:48 scale. That's 1/96" or just over 1/100". Not .005", for sure but that's the difference between the two states of mind.

That's a great question. The best plans are drawn with hair's width lines.This minimises the issue that you mention. Of course, in CAD you can magnify to a size that will drive you crazy! If you want to go the CAD route, might I suggest that the base drawing be redrawn from the 'fat line' plan first, then imported? There will always be some compromises, or you will lose your mind.

A damp brush gets nicely into corners to remove dust.

A good ol' fashioned scale rule works for me most of the time!

Just imagine where any rub or wear points might be. Edges of the gunwale would be an obvious area, for instance.