druxey

Those thimbles are a great hack! Well invented.

Two points: One, if you aren't happy with something now, you won't be happy with it later! Two, use rubbing alcohol not only to debond, but also to soften and remove any residual glue squeeze-out later, if you missed a bit.

Glad that you are enjoying the experience and the challenge.

Welcome back, mini-me, to minier-me!

Nice to read a good-news story for a change! Thanks, Chuck.

Thank you, Wefalk! It brought back memories when, as a five-year old child, I was fascinated by the moving eccentrics and connecting rods in the open engine room. The smell of hot oil.... This was on a Vierwaldstättersee steamer. I think a model of one of those would be a very interesting subject..

Was this on one of those lovely side-paddle steamers?

It looks as if you've mastered drafting and lofting as well, Tiziano. A great beginning.

Terrific work!

It was a good decision to reglue those frames now. If you hadn't, it would be guaranteed to come back and bite you later!

Boxwood is nowhere as easily bent as either basswood, holly or yellow cedar. But you know that already!

Also, see photos on pages 11 and 13.

This is what you need (aft edge of post should be a blue line!):

Any remaining twist should correct itself once the building board and frames are put together with the bottom boards added.

If you go to the Royal Museums Greenwich site, there are many open boat plans showing davits and windlasses. An example:

Late to the party; the soldering should be on the straight part of the loop, not the end. Failure rate should be much lower.

Looking very ship-shape, Chuck.

Have a great weekend. Wish I was there!

Looking great. The flare at the bow is quite dramatic!

Hahn was very clear that his models were stylized and did not reflect actual framing  practice.

Also, the plans you show are of completely different ships. The upper one is Beaver's Prize dated March 1778 and the lower one is Beaver of 1757 - a French privateer.

Don't forget that paper itself can change dimensions with humidity levels, and not in the same proportions along x and y axes!

Very nicely done, David. Congratulations!

Wait a moment - I've got a match here somewhere....

Just remember to anneal the copper frequently as you form it. It will work-harden and, if not re-annealed, will crack rather than bend.

Just amazingly neat splicing and plaiting! 

Very neat work on the heels of the cant frames where they sit on the bearding line. Not an easy trick to accomplish with the compound bevels!

An excellent result, Eberhard!

BTW, 'floaters' are possible at any age but, as you mention, they get ignored by the mind after a while. Annoying, but harmless.

Welcome aboard, Mberg!