druxey

For scuppers: My method (waterway in place) is, first accurate mark-out both inboard and out. Drill with a very small diameter bit from both sides. Hopefully the holes will meet - at least partially. Then progressively enlarge using larger diameter bits and needle files, making minor corrections as you go until you reach the diameter of the scupper.

I've not drilled hawseholes in years. I file the half-holes in the hawse pieced before assembly. Again, I make them slightly under final size, then file them out once planking is complete.

Welcome aboard, Marcel!

Please read the planking tutorial:

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf

It will answer all your questions!

Rubber cement will not distort paper or tracing vellum as will any glue with water content.

All looks fair and square!

There are several tutorials on this site on how to plank. Any of these will answer your question, as well as Chuck's contribution:

https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/

Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great.

Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!

Superb work, as ever!

Another source is, of course, TFFM (The Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, The Fully Framed Model, SeaWatchBooks LLC.)

Welcome aboard! Check the 'Important Ship Model Club News' area on this site: Model Shipwrights of Niagara. The meetings are online as well as in-person.

Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate.

You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.

Nice idea, SHJ, but no! The beams below the stachions and rail at the ends of forecastle and quarter deck were called the breast beams.

Even dry docks would need a slight slope for drainage, would they not?

In the 18th century British lexicon, railings at the ends of decks were referred to as 'breastwork'.

I think either way will work.

And check out the reef points!

I have an identical tack hammer. It is circa 1940 and was my father's. I still love using it; perfect heft and balance. But we digress.

I've also had this problem to solve. I cut a blank, longer than the finished ellipse, and PVA glued it to a backing block. This reduced the chance of breakage cross-grain. I then very carefully scratch molded the section. After soaking the piece off the backing, I was able to cut the joints with the straight sections of the moldings.

If there are any 'tricks' to this, a really good piece of boxwood is needed and patience while running the molding along it.

I've seen both closed and open varieties in contemporary models. The closed balcony balustrade would be stronger.

A very effective solution at small scale!

If the antique wood is a little brittle, you may be able to restore pliability as the veneer folk do: a very dilute solution of glycerin in water. Spray the cut strips and let them dry between sheets of plain newsprint under weight for a couple of days. (It may take longer in regions of higher humidity as it takes longer for the water content to evaporate out.)

Nicely textured and colored!

Well done and a nice presentation, Chris. You can be proud of the result.

Perhaps such discussion - which can be valuable - should be on a separate thread and not a build log?