druxey

Well, that's one mistake you'll never make again! Hope the re-do goes without a hitch.

If using tweezers, perhaps a narrow groove filed into each side of the business end will prevent the ring from popping out as you close it?

That broadside view is now particularly impressive, Marc!

That is a lot of breeching rings to close up. I hope you have a pair of very small-nosed parallel pliers for the job....

Sweet! That hull is looking terrific, Keith.

1450????

If sanding, use sandpaper glued to a flat stick to keep the bevel flat at a constant angle.

I was amused by the sailor climbing by every other invisible ratline. That's picky, Steven! Nicely done, though.

Terrific, Michael! Your metalwork is equal to that of the late, great Gerald Wingrove.

Your trials and tribulations are familiar to all of us. Persevere, and you will find that your skill at cutting joints will keep improving.

Nice!

Well done indeed, Matt. A very nice first model. Now you can build on your experience and skills.

Nice (re)start, Michael.

You have a lot going on, haven't you? Hopefully you'll keep the kitties away from the model now!

Hope that you are doing OK now, MB. And no, it was not particularly cooler near the lake last week! Thanks for asking.

Very neat and ship-shape work, Mark.

Nice to see you resurface, Michael!

Very informative of what to expect, Toni. Well put together.

Good save on the transom!

Excellent, Chris. But it sort of begs to be placed on a bit of airfield landscape....

Terrific and convincing result, Gary!

They look terrific, Eberhard. Interesting collection of corks as well....

I agree with Martes; the coat is fitted using a drop shoulder seam to the back of the shoulder and separate pieces along a curved seam from the rear shoulder down:

It give a very elegant line. You can just see the curved seams in the uniform coat photo. Darts in clothes were used once wider bolts of machine-made material became available.

As impressive as ever!

If the hands are too large - and perhaps the extended one of the standing figure might be - the head is rather small for the figure's height!

You should be OK painting the filler. It may need sanding and repainting a few times to get a really smooth finish, though. For larger gaps a tube of wood filler (such as LePage's 'natural')  is easier to handle and sand. It also dries faster!

Looks like a nice job that you've done. You commented on the variation in wood. As it is a natural not synthetic material, any wood piece has its own peculiarities that you have to adjust your techniques to. We all experience this, whether kit or scratch builders.