druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Outstanding work! Ausgezeichnete! -
A fascinating way to solve the engraving issue without photoetching! What diameter bit did you use, Gerald?
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- falls of clyde
- tanker
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Nice going, Ed. And congratulations on the 100th page of this thread!
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- young america
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
druxey replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lovely! But don't forget the water holes in the spritsail. -
Oh dear, Keith. Hopefully the new and revised version will have zero runout!
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I noticed slight 'eyebrows' over windows and doors worked into the thatch in the last photo.
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Erik: there are so many things to consider when lining out. Please read the article (link below) to better understand what you need to do. Also, there are a lot of boat-builders in Scandinavia. Perhaps you could talk to one of them as well! https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/search/&q=a primer on planking&sortby=newest&search_in=titles
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It is hard to tell at long distance, but you are having some problems Erik. Before you go further, may I suggest you replace the black tape with thread? This minimizes the thickness issue. I'm attaching a version of your photo with red lines showing roughly how the lines should go. Note that the lowest planks at the bow, especially the garboard, end earlier to allow enough room for the rest of the planking. At the stern the lowest planks widen at the stern post. Try again and play with the thread positions until you get smooth curves from every angle of view. Have you read A Primer for Planking, pinned on this site?
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I tried to access the image you mentioned. The image (if it is the same one) is a stereoscopic pair but, once again, the screen resolution was too low to see exactly what you are querying. Sorry, but I did try!
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The rope you refer to is called a strop. It is basically a single loop of rope lashed together between the block and hook. There are many ways of making this loop up at scale size. Perhaps the simplest way is to lash a length of line into a small loop, capturing the hook first. Then take the two ends of the line around the sides of the block, glueing them. Cut and glue the line ends neatly at the top of the block. Usually hooks engage an eyebolt. I suspect the wire is twisted to make a stem. Is that why the hole required is larger than the diameter of the wire?
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- tiller rigging
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Miniature chain is available from several sources online. I just checked and there is as fine as 40 links to the inch in brass.
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Lines can be any (constant) number of degrees apart. And yes, in principle, that is it. See Antscherl's Primer on Planking, this site: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php (Scroll down and click).
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No formula required! Draw two straight lines parallel to each other, almost the width of your paper apart. Draw a number of points along one line slightly less far apart than the narrowest plank. On the other line, draw a number of points slightly wider than the widest plank. Join the lines up across the sheet and voila! Your fan. Of course, you could simply start from a single point on one side of the paper instead.
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You can blend edges better if they are torn and ragged rather than straight. The effect you are achieving looks great.
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Aiee! You are including every possible running line? Incredible, Ed.
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Cross-border mail can be notoriously slow at times, I've found. It's probably the Canadian and U.S. postal systems, not the vendor.
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Dilute washes of acrylic paint will tone the material nicely.
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See the sail supplement booklet to the Swan Class series, Volume IV.
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I believe that 'nitro cellulosic filler' that you are using is called sanding sealer in North America.
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Weathering wood
druxey replied to JpR62's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I agree with wefalck: bitumen never fully dries or 'sets'. Problems can become apparent years later. Have you ever seen old brown varnish finishes that have 'alligatored'? That's because they were bitumen based. Acrylic or oil paints in washes are far more reliable. -
There is one problem - I've run out of superlatives to describe your modelmaking skills!
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Coming along very nicely, Toni. However, watch out for the tilt aft of the lights: yours are too vertical at present, I think.
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