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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    If it's a short length of tube, the wire will capture it and prevent the piece from flying off into the 5th dimension.
  2. druxey
    Looks good now, Mike!
  3. druxey
    Lovely work there. That was a lucky fix with the spreader!
  4. druxey
    Maybe the lift needs adjusting; the end of the boom looks a bit low right now. Very neat rigging work though!
  5. druxey
    Very nice progress, E&T. Good to see you back again.
  6. druxey
    I applaud your optimism, Dave! If I were choosing, Winchelsea would be my hands-down favorite.
  7. druxey
    I understand what you are saying Sawdust Dave. However, one can hedge one's bets by building a cutter rather than a 74 when one is 74!
  8. druxey
    Both are of SilkSpan, Allan. The tasselled fringe is of treated canvas. The canopy is not shown on the lines drawing, but I found an oil painted elevation showing this, the color scheme and ensign on the Royal Museums Greenwich web site. (BHC 1117)
  9. druxey
    Very nicely done indeed! The metalwork of the balustrade is outstanding.
  10. druxey
    It strikes me that, with all the reconstruction and re-working that you envisage doing, whether it would be easier to start from scratch rather than try to re-shape the basic kit hull. Rather than trying to make the shoe fit by taking a scalpel to the foot, make a new shoe instead! Of course, I understand that it's your project and your decision.
  11. druxey
    Your mini drywall ceiling sander gave me my morning smile, Michael!
  12. druxey
    Thanks for your opinion of using lead, Alex.
  13. druxey
    Very neatly done, Mike. Nice!
  14. druxey
    Could one make one die and simply back it up with a piece of lead, rather than having to machine two matching dies perfectly?
  15. druxey
    Planks were probably in the range of 20' 0" to 28' 0" long.
  16. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Dave. Neat work.
  17. druxey
    A fine dust air cleaner on the ceiling is not a bad thing for micro-particular 'bits'.
  18. druxey
    Fimo can be baked in an oven (low temperature!) to harden it. You can also add to the hardened model or carve it further, as well as paint it.
  19. druxey
    Chris: Like Jaeger, Pat, Dave, Bill, Roger and Mark said! Jim's sander throws a lot of dust, so a permanent hook-up to a collection system is something you may wish to consider. A shop-vac is pretty noisy, so if it can be placed in an adjacent space for sound attenuation....
  20. druxey
    From your clear descriptions the sequence is obvious anyway, Gerald. The number of jigs you make and use is quite extraordinary. Brilliant!
  21. druxey
    Nice progress, Mike. Michael: the type of hand-vise shown is a jeweler's and watchmaker's vise Check eBay for similar items.
  22. druxey
    If the crack is open a little, a touch of Bondo will fix it.... Good luck with all those ports and pins!
  23. druxey
    I agree that turning in deadeyes and seizing them is a chore, Chuck. Have you tried setting things up temporarily, figuring out where on the shroud the deadeye turns in, mark it, remove the shroud and do the turning in and seizing off-model? I find it makes life much easier doing this on the bench rather than operating 'in air'.
  24. druxey
    Fascinating information and pictures of the Whitemill! Thanks you, Roger, for bringing this to our attention.
  25. druxey
    Keel taper is a vexatious question. No source I've read specifies exactly where it begins. I suspect that it starts where the cant frames begin, but have no hard proof of this. Anyone else have more information?

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