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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    This comes a little late to the table, but I have just come cross a description in A Treatise of Shipbuilding, circa 1620-25, as reprinted, edited and annotated by W. Salisbury and R.C. Anderson (Society for Nautical Research Occasional Publications No. 6, London 1958). It reads as follows (pages 26-27): The next thing to be drawn in this plane of length and depth is the swimming line, which is a principal thing to be regarded for the good qualities of the ship. From that line are set off the decks and ports for the ordnance, higher or lower as we will have them lie to pass; therefore of right there should be marks made on the ship's side to direct the mariner always to keep her in that trim, neither to sink her deeper nor let her swim shoaler. The depth of this line is taken off the midship bend, for where the two upper sweeps intersect each other with respect to the thickness of the plank (which intersection is easily found by drawing a straight line through the centres of the upper sweep and futtock sweep), from thence to the ground line is the true depth of the swimming line. Which depth being marked upon the midship line and upon each perpendicular of the upper rising, draw a straight line from stem to stern. So you have the swimming line desired.
  2. druxey
    Yes, those timbers are very vulnerable to damage. Like Greg, I've also experienced the snapping sound that one doesn't want to hear!
  3. druxey
    Looks like a good strategy, Ben. Those cant frames look lovely.
  4. druxey
    This thread seems to have generated a lot of interest and comment. Let me see if I've got it right: Kit - built straight out of a box using the manufacturer's instructions (if you can understand them!) Modified kit - as above, but with additional details that have been purchased, such as photo-etched sheets, rope or blocks. Kit-bashed - one or more kits that have been cobbled together to represent a different subject than the kit(s) Semi-scratch - from based on a kit, but heavily modified using parts made by the builder, to builder fabricated with some commercial parts Scratch - completely fabricated from raw materials by the builder, no commercial parts Museum quality - an over-used and hence now meaningless term (Yeah, I'm sticking my neck out on this one!) The 'semi-scratch' definition seems to be the broadest, if my summary is correct. Should there be sub-sets in this category?
  5. druxey
    I'm not that familiar with the physics involved, Hellmut, but the frictional forces in a sheave will surely vary. The factors to be considered are: 1) friction between the sheave and its pin 2) the angle at which the line enters and leaves the sheave (i.e. how much contact surface there is between them) 3) the diameter of the line and the groove in the sheave (surface area of contact) 4) the coefficient of friction between the two elements 5) diameter of the sheave There maybe other factors that I've overlooked. Of course, multiple sheaves will complicate things even more.... Perhaps this can all be reduced to a vector diagram. Mit grusse
  6. druxey
    Thanks so much for sharing these photos of your expedition to Chatham, Tony. The folk there are great if they know you are a serious student.
  7. druxey
    Tyes had blocks at their far ends attached to tackle. The tackles could be let out, this lowering the yard, or hauled to raise it. Are you confusing these with jeers?
  8. druxey
    How did you know, SJ?
  9. druxey
    If it's a figurehead you're after, Jerry, see the Admiralty Models web site....
  10. druxey
    Definitely rougher at .1mm than .05mm. Thanks for showing us comparative results.
  11. druxey
    Flow charts, feedback mechanisms and basic electrical circuitry I do understand, or I wouldn't have a clue about what you've presented, Hellmut! Thanks for this primer.
  12. druxey
    Well, the wax option is useful for making repeatable metal castings. That certainly expands the range of possibilities for this machine.
  13. druxey
    Ken: Yes, I'd treat both sides of the pieces as insurance, even if one side is not to be painted. I assumed that a part to be painted would mean hiding the printed surface. I suppose one could use a clear matt acrylic spray (carefully!) if the paintwork was to be transparent, but I've never tried this myself.
  14. druxey
    The (automotive) primer is solvent based, so that paper or card is not affected by moisture, and a waterproof coating results.
  15. druxey
    Thanks for the extra information, Iain. Does this machine use only resin, or are there other materials that could be substituted?
  16. druxey
    Interesting configuration, Iain. Is there a reason for the angle you oriented the piece at, as well as so many supporting sprues (for lack of knowing the correct term)? Also, what would be the print time at fine resolution?
  17. druxey
    Nice to see progress, Clare. One way of avoiding soggy paper or card is to spray with grey primer first. Then you can use acrylic paint over it, as it renders the card waterproof. I've done this for years with models of stage sets I've designed.
  18. druxey
    The slots could also be filed out.
  19. druxey
    Unfortunately kits can be frustratingly misleading at times. The way it was done (both in models and the real ships) was as you describe: slots in the edge of the channel and a covering strip put on afterwards. If you can shave the edge of the channel off down to the holes, then glue a strip on after, that would be the best solution. The 'before and after' on a scratch-built model show this method.
  20. druxey
    I've just been silver soldering quite small parts: rings of ⅛" o.d. copper to brass strip for topsail yard stunsail booms at 1:48 scale. I had no difficulty with the joints, directing more heat on the brass which then conducted to the copper. I was using 'medium' silver solder (from sheet) and a butane micro-torch (similar to Hornet's posted photo). An example of these irons is shown here.
  21. druxey
    Rivetting so far looks great, Vadoc!
  22. druxey
    Luvverly, Mark!
  23. druxey
    Knice knurls!
  24. druxey
    Perhaps this analysis is overkill. Wood expands and contracts with humidity levels. So, were you to 'mike' the samples on another day, your readings will probably differ. You can't compare wood to, say, metal.
  25. druxey
    Seems a pity to cover all those carlings and ledges.... Beautiful work, Lee.

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