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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Heartwarming. Thanks for sharing that moment, Dave.
  2. druxey
    Well done, Siggi! Looking good.
  3. druxey
    That is a terrific method for turning small items like spokes, Remo. Deflection at those sizes is always an issue.
  4. druxey
    Excellent save there, Ed!
  5. druxey
    Beautiful result, Remo! That is a wheel to be proud of.
  6. druxey
    I agree that one should avoid WW lathes that are other than 8mm or 10mm. Boley and Levin are both top-notch machines. However, I found that the Levin with its collet-holding tailstock is more practical. (A Boley with collet-holding tailstock rather than a runner is very hard to find.) And, as wefalk suggests, the D-bed rather than the 'Reform' style lathe is preferable. For motor mounts, there are cast aluminum stands by Borel that hold both lathe and motor. All these items may be found on eBay. Remember to budget for a nice chuck and/or collets!
  7. druxey
    Although holly is white when freshly cut it will tone down and, after a few years, is almost indistinguishable in color from Castello boxwood.
  8. druxey
    That is great progress, Fam. Lovely work.
  9. druxey
    Mikeik - so much of model making is strategic! One learns to think far ahead, as in a chess game.
  10. druxey
    One way to avoid such masking issues would be to not add the strips (I assume these are moldings) until after you've painted the dark green planking. Prepaint the red strips before installing them. That way you don't have to worry about masking at all!
  11. druxey
    It's far easier to start with a square sectioned spar, then cut it octagonal, finally rounding off the areas where the spar is circular in section. That's the way real masts and spars are made, not turned. To mark out the four square to make it an octagon, each side is marked across 7-10-7 proportionately. That is to say, each face is divided across into 24 parts and lines set off 7 parts in from the edges. Place the four-square stick in a 45 degree holder or jig and plane or chisel down to the marked lines. From there it is easy to round off from octagonal. (In the shipyard, the mast was planed 16-sided first, then rounded, but for model work this step can be skipped.)
  12. druxey
    The diorama of the wreck (url above) is another masterpiece!
  13. druxey
    I believe that Jim is working on a spindle sander. I hope that he is!
  14. druxey
    Sweet! I've always liked the French design hull lines, especially the hollow forefoot. A prochain, Monsieur!
  15. druxey
    Mica is easily worked, David. It comes in layered sheets. These sheets (think millefeuille pastry!) split apart very easily, so you can get a very thin layer if you wish. It can be cut with a blade or sharp scissors. The only drawback is that there are many inclusions in the material, so you need to select the clearest pieces out of your sheet.
  16. druxey
    Nice work, Giampiero!
  17. druxey
    Usually 'Waldos' are attached to the top timber beside them with a long scarph. I've not seen an independent one such as your illustration shows. Very interesting!
  18. druxey
    Bonne chance, mon ami! I'm finding your thread fascinating.
  19. druxey
    Yes, John, it's all about projection, but not in the psychological sense of the word!
  20. druxey
    This way madness lies.... It begs the question, why make things simple if you can make them complicated? Good luck with this partial square/partial cant frame (if I'm seeing this correctly, that is),
  21. druxey
    Sweet! And a happy Thanksgiving.
  22. druxey
    Looking lovely, Greg!
  23. druxey
    There's always ordering on the Internet if the drive is too iffy!
  24. druxey
    Good progress, Fam!
  25. druxey
    Good to read of Judy recovering. Making hinges on a snowy day is good therapy as well. They look terrific. I have some miniature burrs that I use as countersinks. Do you have such things?

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