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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I suspect tarred felt may have been used as 'insulator' between copper and lead. I believe it was an 18th century feature, Jason. The draught marks were usually of lead also. Before copper sheathing, the draught marks appear to have been incised into stem and stern posts. The marks were often filled with red paint, judging by contemporary models that show this feature.
  2. Looks like you've both become unhinged.... Seriously, those are terrific looking miniature hinges that actually work.
  3. Also, see Gaetan Bordeleau's Le Fleuron latest posting for a good alternative lo-tech solution.
  4. In the lower diagram the shroud is right hand lay. If the twist in your own shrouds runs mirror image to this, you have a left hand lay. Also, look at the orientation of the lower deadeye, Captain Al. It is opposite to the upper one. Looks like your photos show the lower ones oriented incorrectly.
  5. The best reference I know is in Seamanship in the Days of Sail by John Harland and Mark Myers. They describe and illustrate just about every conceivable operation in a sailing ship throughout different eras. It's a great reference. You can probably find a copy on a used book site such as www.abebooks.com
  6. The pictures show that the last lap of the laniard is running up to the wrong place. It should run up behind the upper deadeye and thread out through the gap in the shroud just above the deadeye before wrapping around both legs of the shroud and tying off.
  7. Interesting sheer plan and comments/quotes above, gentlemen. I assume the small rectangular shapes along the side above the wale are ventilation scuttles? If so, they seem to be placed tight against the deck level indicated. Is this correct? Usually they are lower, to clear the deck clamps.
  8. Are you reeving the laniards in the right sequence? If they are on 'backwards', there will be the tendency to twist. (The twisting may well originate with the lay of the shroud above.)
  9. Nicely done! By the way, 'ears' is the correct term for these small knees.
  10. Ingenious idea: peep-through holes in your weights!
  11. I use a setup with a very small end mill to cut the scores for treads. Much less scary!
  12. Moins que un demi-pouce? To that fine a tolerance? That is truly impressive, John!
  13. Elegant but simple. Well done, Bill!
  14. There is a small monograph on making realistic Silkspan sails on the SeaWatchBooks site. As Blue Ensign shows, the effect is very convincing.
  15. Nicely done, Ed. How far apart are the treads in 'real size' inches?
  16. There will also be 'guest ropes' to grab as you climb those steps. If you look at Chuck's version of the draught, you will see two stanchions for these ropes on either side of the steps.
  17. There are no filler pieces for the hawse holes, Alan: the timbers themselves are wider and abut each other. The hawse pieces are cut away above and below to form the air spaces.
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