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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Is that gold leaf that you've patinated in some way or another? I love the details of the carriage.
  2. Once you start shifting ports around, you will run into other problems later, such as chains getting in the way. Russ is absolutely correct in stating that the top timbers were shifted to accommodate the ports. They were located where they are by the original designer for a reason!
  3. Thanks for posting your experience, Bob. I'm glad that you are OK and that it wasn't worse. We appreciate the heads up. Always wear safety gear - especially eye protection. All plastics will become less pliable with age as the plasticizer changes chemically. This example seems unusually brittle. Of course, the contents may have influenced the rate of change in the plastic.
  4. Lovely re-purposing of firewood, Michael!
  5. Lovely work, Sherry. I don't know how I missed seeing your log before.
  6. Well, you rose to the challenge again, Remco! Well done. That looks terrific. I think the tags might be a little large. They would hang down so you could easily find the sail you needed in the pile.
  7. Look on the bright side, Mark: once you've solved all the problems associated with making and setting the counter timbers, you'll be able to do this in a fraction of the time on your next model! It looks as if you are well on your way now. She's looking great. And three cheers for Alvin's assistance.
  8. Coming on a treat, Gary. She looks terrific!
  9. I'm not in the persuasion business either, but it's good to remember to take off too little rather than too much wood if pre-bevelling.
  10. Working in a confined space is a challenge, isn't it? Hopefully all will go well and no counter timbers hurt in the process.
  11. If that was your first silver soldering job, well done! You won't want to go back to soft solder now you've found out how strong the joint is, if properly made.
  12. But Remco did so well on the last challenge, Mark! I couldn't resist….
  13. There probably were racks: air circulation was important to prevent mould or rot. At very least, there would be battens on the deck. If you are showing stored sails, don't forget their wooden identification tags!
  14. The top of the floor timbers shown on the sheer are the lines of the floor heads, not their cross-section at the keel. That is why the floors in your rendering look too fat. You need to consult Steel's tables to find the moulded dimension on the the floors.
  15. Another method for making thimbles is to cut short pieces off a suitable brass or copper tube. File these flat to the same length in a jig. (This is simply a piece of wood of suitable thickness with holes drilled through.) Place the piece of tube on a hard metal surface and use a centre punch to flare one side of the thimble. Turn it over and flare the other side in the same way. It will take a little experimentation to get the correct strength of 'punch' to do the job.
  16. I see what the question was - but it's already been answered! On another note, the moulded (in and out) dimension of your floor timbers look a bit thick. You might want to check that.
  17. You wrote: I am wondering, do the actual inner/outer frame surfaces angle to mimic the inner/outer profile of the hull? One "square" frame up against another "square" frame set in or out a bit to follow the half breadth doesn't seem right. I don't quite understand what you are saying here, Alan. Could you try again, please?
  18. With your machining skills, you could easily make your own duplicating device.
  19. I am so sorry to hear of your, and your family's, tragic loss, Alan. May building this model be a healing process for you and a good memorial.
  20. She is progressing beautifully, Albert. Very nice, clean work.
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