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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Perhaps weight and cost were factors in using wood?
  2. druxey
    Interesting form of steady, Alan. How often do you have to move it along?
  3. druxey
    Welcome back! Quite a fiddly detail.....
  4. druxey
    Take each relief carving one at a time. Looking at the whole tafferel load at once is rather daunting!
  5. druxey
    Don't you love those 'Ah ha' moments? It always amazes me that shipwrights did things a certain way and that there was always a logical reason behind it.
  6. druxey
    Well deserved, Vladimir! I'm pleased to see that your talent and work has been recognized.
  7. druxey
    Likewise, Adam!
  8. druxey
    Well done for tackling metalwork!
  9. druxey
    And it's nice to connect with like-minded folk who like to research and explore!
  10. druxey
    Part of any discrepancy is that Crocodile is from 1781 and Steel's tables were current some 20 years later. The Shipbuilder's Repository of 1788 does not, as Allan has mentioned, give any transoms below the deck transom, as per your draught. I'd definitely go with the 'as built' draught. BTW, Crocodile is a lovely subject to model.
  11. druxey
    I cut a series of grooves using the gouges and veiners in a piece of softwood, then load the grooves with green honing compound. Cheap!
  12. druxey
    Brilliant solution to that netting at small scale, Dafi. However, the man-ropes (hand-lines) were not knotted. (I made that mistake once on a model.) It's the footropes under the jibboom that are knotted. I had to change this. Annoying!
  13. druxey
    Love the exhaust manifold treatment!
  14. druxey
    Sorry about your dye bleed, Dr. PR. Instead of shellac, a spot of dilute PVA (white) glue could act as placeholder. I also wax my dyed blocks. This might act as slight barrier to shellac, but I wouldn't bank on it without testing first.
  15. druxey
    All lovely tools and toys, but I think we have topic drift. The original question (unless I've misunderstood) is making a miniature chamfer on things like bitts, etc. A fine file or sanding stick does the trick. Is all!
  16. druxey
    What about this possibility? (A very rough version!)
  17. druxey
    A spot of glue will keep the martingale stays in place! Coming along nicely, Sal.
  18. druxey
    Very neatly observed and done - especially at small scale!
  19. druxey
    Fine job on those gains!
  20. druxey
    I'm fascinated by the replication of all the imperfections and joints on your carving! I've never seen this done elsewhere.
  21. druxey
    Greg and I use Fiebing's medium brown dye for the blocks.
  22. druxey
    To my eye the gallery still looks a little compressed. If you expand it a little more, then the last gun port of the middle deck will fall directly under the last port on the quarter deck as it seems it should.
  23. druxey
    Kits are simplified, but you can modify things to make them more like the 'real thing' as little or as much as you wish. Allan has shown you how it was done in the mid to late 18th century on British ships.
  24. druxey
    That is ridiculous! There can't be so many models being rigged simultaneously! It must be hoarders trying to corner the market....
  25. druxey
    Planking is both a science and an art. The 'scientific' part is mathematical: dividing the vertical distance to be covered in an appropriate number of strakes. The art is to adjust the run of these until they look right to the eye from all angles. Sometimes the adjustment needed is very small, in other hulls there needs to be larger tweaks. There is no one way of doing this. However, the strakes should appear to taper or widen evenly.

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