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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. For complex parts such as the cheeks, fit the blanks to the bow and knee of the head first. Then shape the outboard profile. Finally shape the curve up on the fore and aft arm. If you try to do more than one part of the operation at the same time it will mess up!
  2. Daß ist echt! Very lovely progress, Oliver. She makes a very sweet model.
  3. I would be hesitant to bend the beams. Wood has a way of reverting to its previous form if not bolted or treenailed in place. The larger piece with the round-up shaped, then parted off, is a better choice. The underside can be milled in if you have the facility. If not, cut the individual beams from sheet and finish them on shaped convex and concave sanding blocks. That is the way I make my beams these days. Looking really nice so far!
  4. No Idea: The square tuck, if almost above water level, will not really affect the rudder's effectiveness. However, if the tuck is deep into the water, the rudder will be in its 'shadow' with water turbulence in that area as the ship moves through the water. This situation means that the rudder is less efficient.
  5. Alas, the example cited was drawn much later than the actual ship. Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings.
  6. Mark-out is also critical. The finest pencil line possible helps a lot. A regular HB pencil doesn't cut it; use a mechanical clutch pencil with 2mm leads of 3H or 4H grade. in the purpose made sharpener. These give a really fine line. Then you can cut with confidence without wondering whether to aim for the which of the edges or middle of the line!
  7. The wishbone assembly looks very nicely done, Bob. I applaud your idea of adding the safety rails and bimini to your model. That will certainly set it apart from any other iteration.
  8. Just catching up on your build. What a delightful little model! Nicely done, Clare.
  9. Welcome aboard, indeed. Check out Marine Modellers of Niagara on this site.
  10. Well done. The line that you aren't quite happy with could be straightened with a little water and then some dilute acrylic matte medium.
  11. Primer is always matte, to provide 'tooth' for the top coat(s) of paint. The best way to look for imperfections is a point source of light at a raking angle to the surface.
  12. Nice work, Bob. Those wishbones are a little tricky to shape, no? BTW, i never keep my coffee or any other drink in the workshop area. All it takes is one spill....
  13. That is an impressive result, Riotvan. Perhaps sanding sealer rubbed down (and automotive putty to correct any defects) might be a better approach than epoxy. In any case, several rounds will be needed to achieve the kind of finish that you eventually got.
  14. Those illustrated certainly seem to be Dutch style, not British.
  15. According to Lees, catharpins of the style where a single block was lashed to each shroud with a zig-zag line laced back and forth, the ends seized together, were in use until about 1730. This applies to British ships. Not sure about Spanish, but most European rigging was similar. Anderson does not mention Spanish ships, unfortunately. He says there is very little information.
  16. Good repair job, Bob. The hull looks great. I usually leave paint to cure and harden at least 24 hours before attempting to use masking tape over it. Preferably several days. Did you mask too soon, perhaps?
  17. Late to the fray, another consideration: If a square tuck, the fashion piece needs to join the sternpost at about waterline level in order for the rudder to act effectively. Look at the Lely painting again: If that were a square tuck the lower end is well submerged and rudder action would be severely affected. That image, together with the Boston one, lead to the inevitable conclusion that she had a round tuck or just possibly a transitional one. It cannot have been a square one. I rest my case, gentlemen!
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