druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Looks lovely now, Lyle. Well done. -
Comng along nicely. That 'punky' bit of plank must have had a flaw in the wood. You did an excellent job of repairing it. Sometimes stuff just happens with a natural material like wood.
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
- Model Shipways
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You are doing well with that tricky stern shape!
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A pre-Establishment find!!! Well done and thank you for sharing this.
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Tell your 25 year younger self off! With any luck, the errant gammoning hole will be covered by the trail boards, so no-one will be the wiser. A couple more inches clearance under the bowsprit for the figure might be good as well.
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Try using the alcohol under Saran wrap so it stays where needed. Also, perhaps your spring clips are too strong?
- 40 replies
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
druxey replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I've always used rubber cement for this. The paper will peel off easily and the remains of the cement can be removed using a rubber cement eraser (it is crêpe rubber). -
HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
druxey replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Persistence pays off!- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
- Plank-on-frame
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You might have better success in the smallest sizes to use a much more fine-grained wood.
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There were often variances between different ships of ehe same class, so your finding is not unusual. What program are you using, BTW?
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Further to Keith; no metal on gunpowder barrels! They were bound using withy, a kind of flexible willow cane.
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3D cannon barrels
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
A very nice offer, Allan. -
EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
druxey replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Just catching up on your work, Peter. Nice and crisp! -
There is a slight narrowing in the aft body along this section so, if the second photo shows the aft end to the left, this would account for things. However, if the aft end is to the right.... In any case, the angle would be slightly less than your trial set-up, I think.
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Is the blade jamming as it has insufficient 'set' or is too fine-toothed and heating up?
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You are a braver man than I with those catchy things whirling around! Two points: one, hard to see, but the lay seems too loose and two, if properly laid and hardened, the rope should not unravel when cut.
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I find getting these 'just right' the hardest challenge in a model, as they curve in all planes. Looks lke you've conquered the problem beautifully, Siggi.
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While the base and stand is another masterpiece, I find that my eye is drawn to the shiny and away from the model. This may be heresy, but would chemically darkening the metal be something that you might consider?
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Looks a bit Rube Goldberg (Heath Robinson for the British reader!) to me, and a bit scary. My reaction is similar to Bob's....
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I'm sorry to read that your brother has to retire from the hobby, but appreciate his equipment being offered to continue the tradition elsewhere.
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As Greg suggested. Sometime I use rubber cement to 'glue' down pieces. The only drawback is that it does not hold well in shear, so if you are planning on heavy cuts...
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