druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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You have achieved an excellent result with your 'wood' trim. Well done, Bob!- 111 replies
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- Nonsuch 30
- Model Shipways
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So, you pay less for postage, but the mail strike hold things up instead. Can't win!
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Bienvenue and welcome aboard, Patrick!
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The 'alligatored' pebble-grain paint surface looks as if the model was exposed to extreme heat. Is this attic in a hot climate?
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Just catching up to you, Steven. Fascinating research and interpretation of those images.
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Thank you for educating us, Dick. I wonder wherher the ladder-like iconography represents internal thwarts or even frames?
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I use a ruling pen whose tips can be adjusted for width with acrylic paint, suitably diluted to flow nicely. (Each time you load the pen using a brush, test draw on scrap first!)
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Very methodical, and I like the felt 'buffer' that you have over the drill chuck. Clever idea! Acts both as a depth stop and anti-marring device.
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Terrific work, as ever, Valeriy. It's a pity new the lovely details are almost hidden in the middle of all the other lovely detail!
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A little ripper from Veretas
druxey replied to PeteB's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nice set-up, Ron. Whose sharpening guide is this? -
A little ripper from Veretas
druxey replied to PeteB's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Tip: don't rest the plane on its sole, but always on its side. The blade will stay sharper longer. -
Well, the real seams had an overlap where the canvas was doubled. It was probably at least an inch or two wide. One would not see a stitched line at scale size. The effect is more obvious in transmitted light:
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There you go! Trying new techniques for the first time is always daunting, but then one finds it not so bad after taking the plunge. You might want to make the 'seams' a bit wider next time.
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Agree that scraping off the point will improve adhesion.
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a) You must have supplied several navies with blocks and line by now and b) you need to purchase Brunel's block-making machinery from Portsmouth.
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When wet, SilkSpan is delicate, as you've discovered. It needs gentle handling when lifting out of the water. Hold the piece by the edges on a diagonal, so excess water runs off the bottom corner. Once it has about ceased to drip, the sheet needs to be flopped carefully onto the frame with the plug in place. Wait a bit until it begins to dry before taping down, then remove the plug to let things dry and shrink taut. Using 'dope' (mentioned above) might affect any use of acrylic or other water-based paint adhering.
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Mathew Baker's early concept of ship hull design, ca. 1570
druxey replied to Waldemar's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I'm sorry to read your response, Waldemar, and will politely withdraw from this discussion. -
Read the planking articles posted on this site!
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Have fun, Maury! Good to see you back working on the model.
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Mathew Baker's early concept of ship hull design, ca. 1570
druxey replied to Waldemar's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I'm sorry to say that your post #75 and #78 to Wayne is, to put it charitably, unkind. Perhaps - assuming that English is your second language - you did not intend it to be a sharp as it reads, but that is the way I took it. Please be more careful. I take this thread to be an academic exercise of enquiry for respectful discussion. Now, I've looked at your range of stern post rakes and find that 18 degrees has a ratio of 1:3, and 22.5 degrees is 1:2.5 within experimental limits. I still think that you might consider the validity of constructing angles by ratio. -
Lovely attention to detail on those hanging knees.
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