mtaylor
-
Posts
25,781 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by mtaylor
-
There's several options here... you could try to remove and then reset the deck. If you used carpenter's (PVA) glue, then isopropyl alcohol on the joints will allow you to remove it. Or, sand the overhang off, and build up the "short" side of the deck. Sanding the bulkheads on one side and building up the other will offset the keel probably enough to be noticeable. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
-
Looking sharp, Jerry. I got my fingers crossed that all goes well with weather and ship this weekend.
-
Sweet work, Augie. Everything just pops, just right. A thousand hours so far? Looks like more than that went into her.
- 2,191 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- confederacy
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Bil, It's part of the process... we've all had those "Doh!!!" moments.
-
I do like the looks of the new stem, Mike. And all the cannon.. Have fun with the boat. both the real one and the model.
- 887 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- hahn
- oliver cromwell
- (and 1 more)
-
Stergios, Short answer is no.. the milling bit will need higher rpm's as well. I wonder if a drum sander like the Dremel style would work? Lots of sawdust but it might do the trick. What I and others have been able to do is get close on that cutout with a scroll saw and the file to the final shape and size.
-
Design by Modelling
mtaylor replied to Hellmut1956's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Hellmut, Most of your math is way over my head. The fact you can present it and discuss says a lot about your mental acuity and more about your attitude. I'm searching but not finding it. I thought it was in a box of some documents. I'll have to start online. While it was more for high speed, high horsepower applications, I think it would apply here as a sheave is a sheave and it doesn't matter if it's a belt or rope, the forces are still present. -
Design by Modelling
mtaylor replied to Hellmut1956's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
As I recall from my racing days with pulleys and belts (same principle), the deeper the groove, the higher the friction. Much depends on if the sides of the sheave rub/touch the (in this case) rope. Wider sides would be preferable to a shallow groove. We'd want the rope to be as loose in the groove as possible with minimum touching friction on the sides. I've seen a chart somewhere but it was for pullys and v-belts and minimizing horsepower losses depending on rpm, etc. so I'll have to do some digging. -
Izzy, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7942-removing-paint-from-plastic-kit/
- 79 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- cutty sark
- airfix
- (and 1 more)
-
Thanks for the "likes" and the comments. Dan, That is a good point I didn't think of. With the thicker timbers it will probably be more apparent. I'm going to line out the area between the wales and the batten and work on that area... then drop a batten between the wide planks and garboard since those (except for the garboard) are all the same width. So by doing the thicker planks first, I should be able to get a better idea on the narrow planks, I'm thinking. Plus I've got some fiddly things to clean up caused by naïveté on my part. The rabbet needs attention where it goes to almost vertical (the dreaded bevel) at the bow and stern along with some frames that aren't faired quite right.
-
Bil, Don't look at the total.. just do one frame at a time. Remco, a most excellent builder has this as his tagline in his signature and it's a perfect explanation: Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime
-
Jeff, What Ken said about people. I bought a conductor set and they look like officers. They're not on the model.. but I used them a lot for scale.
-
Thanks for the likes and comments. Dan, I'm absorbing all I can.... Your post is big help. I rechecked the Belle Poule and La Venus monographs as they have the same planking style as Licorne. The pics show the re-positioned (this morning) batten. Not much from the red pin back but definitely moreso at the bow. My dead flat and the widest frame is frame 20 (black arrow in full length picture below). The batten at that point is 41 mm which is 8 planks wide. I examined the planking schemes and did some rough measurements from the plans and moved the bow piece towards the wale. This flattened the plank out so there's not a nasty twist/bend in it. It's 17.5 mm. I measured the last strern frame and I get 37 mm. The area between the batten and wales is for the wider planks of 5/32" (5mm). For reference, the dead flat frame dimension from keel to wale is 129mm, first frame forward is 80 mm and last frame is 123 mm These plans also show that the fore part of the garboard doesn't taper down like an English ship but goes up. I need to double check this as could just be a drawing distortion. (see the red line). Nor does it appear that they used a broad strake next to the garboard (which was wide) but a wide stealer near the stern. <scratches head> The other oddball (to me) thing is that the planks are not uniform in width at the midsection for those but the NMM cross-section plan for Licorne is. I'll give the tape method a shot and see what it does... sounds like a good idea.
-
Mary Rose 1545 by tarbrush - Scale 1:72
mtaylor replied to tarbrush's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
John, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope and pray you have a full recovery. -
After reading all the theories and "how-to's" where the rubber meets the road.... I'd like some feedback on my batten. I'm planking from the wales down to the batten first. The batten represents where the wide wale planks will end... or should end.
-
J, (since I'm not sure of your name... ) You'll find quite a bit off on scale.... not just barrels (they're tad too long and still not really the "right" type). The wheel is too big also. Did your kit come with the "little guys"? They are actually 1:64 scale. The model is around 1:85 so a couple of HO figures would give a better idea of scale. Don't toss the "little guys" as you can use them with any model 1:64 to maybe 1:72. If I remember anything else that was off on this, I'll give a yell. Ah.. I found the picture I was looking for.. the top gun is what came with my kit. Very much an SciFi looking gun....
-
Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nenad, I'm hoping it all goes well for your wife and mother. As Thomas Paine (American writer from the late 1700's) said, "These are the times that try men's souls." All we can do is ride them out and hope the best. My thoughts are with you.- 4,145 replies
-
- 9
-
-
- cutty sark
- tehnodidakta
- (and 1 more)
-
Wonderful work, Tony. As for who knows where you go now... may the wind be at your back and push you where your heart yearns.
- 62 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- harwich bawley
- fishing boat
- (and 2 more)
-
Carl, I'm putting the research away for now... I'll follow the ANCRE plans for the ways of planking and they look remarkably like the way Jim Roberts does them in his book Planking the built up ship model. Right now, I'm fiddling with the battens. When I think they look right I'll post pictures and work from there.
-
Beautiful planking, Jack.
-
Bil, On the scarfs... simply put, strength and this orientation was found to work best. The false keel and the keelson will be oriented the other way.
-
Jack, What Carl said.... those of us who are following will wait. Something are more important than a model... Did I just say that? :D
- 60 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- granado
- bomb ketch
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
