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mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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I see where you're coming from on this as I had to go back to page 1 and refresh my memory. I'm no expert but here's what I think based on what I've read and am trying to sort out for my build. This is the French ship that was captured and re-gunned by the Brits which the cross-section shows. The forward most ports (bridle ports) on the gun deck would have been empty and the forward most guns moved to there as needed. You're good to go there. By the way, the bridle ports would have had full lids. The rest of the ports on a French ship.. none. They used a buckler to close the port in foul weather. The Brits might have added lids (and most probably did). On the forecastle, those two "chase ports" are the access to the heads, bowspit and rigging. Putting guns there wouldn't have worked as the blast would destroyed any rigging. The two 9-pdrs should be out the stern ports on the quarter deck. The French seemed to have normally two ports just below the stern lights or even used two stern lights. If not there, they would show them on the quarterdeck. Since the plans show them on the quarterdeck, put the guns there. (Or just not use the guns, as Captain's choice ). As a sidenote, the guns couldn't be moved from bow to stern as the gangways wouldn't support the weight. Anyway, I hope this helps.
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Chris, Are you showing a mini-tool or flex-cable attachment?
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Very nice work, David. Were the two forward chase ports filled? I'm not sure when the Brits stopped filing them.
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Silver soldering - Copper vs Brass
mtaylor replied to rtropp's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
From the solder description, it's not silver-solder. That's possibly the problem. -
What an excellent project. And I hate to say it, but you may never get that hull back. :) If I'm reading all this right... you want to build hull (eventually) out of wood? If so, figure out how to make a mold out of the outside. Then you can slice the mold up transversely and have cross-sections to copy and modify for your framing.
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That is a great idea on the bowsprit. What keeps it in place while sailing?
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Looks great, John. Are you going for just wood treenails or the metal nails also?
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I don't believe you are the only one... welcome to the club.
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Looking good from here, Adriaan. Wine rack? Really? and not barrels of rum? Gourmet pirates then.
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double planking a hull
mtaylor replied to pugman11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Cricket, The simple answer is stain or paint the filler (test and re-test on scrap before doing the actual model). This will help hide any planking errors. -
Beautifully perfect, Remco.
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Wow.. that crew has been busy.
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Lovely work, Dan. I'm picking up some good tips.
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Fascinating, Don, to learn the differences and how the Russian subs were designed. I'm just following long as I'm finding this intriguing.
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Sweet, Augie. The beams, knees, etc. look just perfect.
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Hi Luke, Welcome to MSW. You might have a look here in the database: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-plans-and-research.php Third article down is one on kit selection. There's also a good one on what to expect in a kit. AL... very uneven as far as instructions and quality of materials. But... for a starter kit or a serious bash, they have their place. It all depends on what the goal is. My first kit was the Scottish Maid. Not a bad kit, but if I did again, it would be heavily bashed as there some things just not right. My last kit, the Constellation is basically a fiction so I bashed it. Anyway, no matter what you choose, start a build log. It's the best and fastest way to get help and encouragement.
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That display area is just incredible. It really sets off the displays of ships and eggs. Atalanta should be right at home in there.
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Alan, I was thinking that the stem could be assembled as a subassembly.... It can on the Hahn style models but then again, his plans show them as one piece. But Druxey is right in that it "depends"...
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