mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Tom, You're doing fine. When the first layer is completed, fill the low spots and sand the living daylights out of her until everything is smooth and fair. The second layer, go for the nice look. I made my own quarter galleries. But my log only has pictures as it's an executive summary of what was there back on MSW 1.0. It might give you some ideas on how to do the galleries.
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Jason, I think they are missing a block at the end of the yards. The line would go through the block instead of the hole. What these lines do is hold the foot of the sail out and spread. To furl or reef, the sheet line would be loosened and allow the sail to billow in the middle (if need be) or pulled up a furled.
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Thanks Michael. Here I was thinking the reverser was more like the one for a Lenco transmission as that's the only planetary transmission I'm remotely familiar with. Not familiar with enough to tear down and rebuild, however.
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A bit more shaping... You're right Popeye. But not much and mostly inside. Alternately, I can plank the ceiling such that there's a wood trim strip (I'm using Belle Poule's plans as reference) so that it won't be that noticeable. Plus, being inside, it'll mostly be hidden. Funny, I just figured it out... Hahn didn't plank the whole Great Cabin. The transom/stern area is left "raw". I'll take some shortcuts but only on the lower decks much the way I planned it on Version 1.0 but not in the Great Cabin or the rest of the gundeck. Anyway... back to contemplation on the next step. I find I'm having more success by visualizing what needs to be done before I do it. One of the next areas is where the sternpost and rudder come up through the counter. I need to put in some support for to terminating the counter planks. Also, on another topic, there's a discussion about tapering the wales to fit the rabbet. I need to sort out if the French did that. Research, contemplation, more research and maybe the smell of sawdust soon.
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Since the Bonhomme Richard sank and the crew sailed off in the Serapis, when would the crew have been taken prisoner by the British?
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Thanks Omega. Not a promotion as such. I stepped down. I've was a moderator for too many years and needed to have more time to myself. BTW, "Special Contributor" is the title given to all former moderators now, even though we're just members.
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Sweet work, Matti. As I recall, the rigging at times was a rat's nest but it all comes together. You're doing a great job.
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Daniel, You and the guys who do ships in bottle make my eyes hurt at the amount of detail you do in such small scales. Just amazing framing.
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Bob, That was a fast move. Did you need to change employers also? Anyway, take of you and the things that need to be taken care of. I don't think MSW is moving anywhere. Particularly take care of yourself. Moves are stressful enough and even moreso when they have to be done quickly.
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I don't understand how this reverser works but that is one impressive bit of work. Is there some sort of lever to put it into reverse?
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I think I bagged it.... Fiddly work at best. I made some templates, changed them, cut some wood, fed the scrap box Then I got what I wanted. Since this is hidden by quarter galleries, I'll fair it in and tweak as needed before planking. The interior will need minimal as some is hidden by the clamps, deck beams and deck. The interior will get planked and probably some trim around the doorways with some nice doors. It would appear that the French played the "misdirection" game as well as the Brits. On the Brits Roebuck class, there's two rows of stern windows so that when seen by ship coming from astern it would appear bigger than it is. On Licorne, the top of the stern windows are also the beam for the quarterdeck. From inside, the bottom of the lights are about chest high. It gives the appearance when coming astern that the ship is taller than she really is and from a distance it could be mistaken for an 18 pdr frigate (my conjuncture). I think the galleries were designed with the same "look" in mind. Here's some more pics of her rear, and I'm off to the next bit which will either be setting up the deadlights or shaping the taffrail..
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Doc, Roll the gun back and see how far it goes. Eye appeal plays a big part in model-making. If you're not happy with the way it looks, make yourself happy first.
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Converting a kit to a different scale...
mtaylor replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
Tadeusz, Would you give some thought to posting your list here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/13-ships-plans-and-scratch-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/ ? I think it would be big help to those looking for plans. -
Looks very good, Nigel. You perked my curiosity button... the bolts for the clamps and spirketting went completely through the hull? I guess I best do some research before I go much further.... just in case.
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Converting a kit to a different scale...
mtaylor replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
Charlie, For the linking: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/760-how-to-add-a-build-log-link-to-your-signature/ True, scratch isn't much different from kits except normally there's no instructions. Kits do have a lot pre-cut and some things pre-made but they do have almost all of the parts you need. Scratching you just source or make your own. -
Thanks for the likes and comments. Dan and Augie, I think the doorway is canted like that due to the sheer of the deck. There was a discussion of the Great Cabin in English ships recently that showed doorways the same way. I am taking a hard look at the Belle Poule plans to see how her's were handled. To my eye, there's just not that much sheer to compensate for. Thanks Nigel, but that's already accounted for in the wood I'm using. Thanks Danny. I needed that.. and also a new keyboard.
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No problem, Dave. I won't tell a soul.
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Converting a kit to a different scale...
mtaylor replied to CharlieZardoz's topic in Wood ship model kits
Charlie, Basically, you enlarge the plans (or make them smaller. Then cut wood as needed for keel, bulkheads, etc. You'll basically be scratchbuilding. Nothing wrong with that and quite a few folks have build logs in the scratch area for doing this. The only thing really different is that parts need to be cut by you instead of the manufacturer. -
ShopMate Multi-system
mtaylor replied to bdgiantman2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Since you didn't get any answers here, I figured no one had one. It's good you got an answer. I think Shopmate has a forum on web as I recall my dad discovered it or one that had ShopMate discussions years ago. -
Nicely fixed, Juergen. I'm with Nigel on it being hidden.
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Rope making question
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
Thanks, Pat. I saw that article and it's food for thought and testing. Testing will have to wait though until after the 25th. -
Thank you for the "likes" and comments. So far, nothing I thought was "horrible' was. Easily fixable once I got over the shock of seeing it blown up. This is part that Hahn gives minimal help by "leaving it up the modeler to fit and finish". Last time, his recommended method didn't work for me. It involved running the deck clamp to the stern frames and then tying in a couple of vertical stringers. It just didn't look right nor was my craftsmanship good enough to get it consistant and proper. So here's the plan: Inside the red area is where I'll be focused next. I'm now going to cut a piece of 1/8" thick cherry to shape, thin it down to the thickness of the frame forward and taper to half thickness where it ties into the stern frame. It's pretty much a straight line according to the plans from above.. I'll finesse it in and then cut the doorway before mounting it. The top of the piece (green) is the cut line for when the ship is removed from the buildboard so that's the upper limit. It needs to be deep enough to catch the deck clamp as I'll need to add a beam on the gun deck as well as the clamp near the top for the quarterdeck. It should be a lot sturdier for planking the inside and the outside and strengthen that stern framing some. The doing should be a lot simpler than the describing. We shall see what we shall see on the 'morrow after I fair the inside of the stern timbers.
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Dragzz, I have the same slip from 10 or 12 years ago when I did mine. It was warped also. As I recall, that track is screwed down. I just soaked it, ran a line down the baseboard and screwed it down (and glued it) so the warp came out. It's sitting in my wood/tool storage area and is still straight.
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Rope making question
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
Gaetan, I would deeply appreciate that. I'll forward a copy to Chuck to have it put into the Article Database.
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