mtaylor

Lee, She's looking pretty good. A little fairing and the framing should work for you. The only thing I see that might give you problems is a couple frames in the mid ship area that might have to be de-glued and re-set but that will depend on how flexible the frames are. If they're flexible enough, a bit of heat might work to move them into position and then the wales and deck clamps to secure them.

Impressive work. Looking at the pictures, I'd say you had built quite a few models. For a first model, it's even more impressive.

If he didn't count, we'd think it odd that there was a large hole in the middle. Ok. seriously nice work, Ben. Looking superb.

And a working ballista on top of everything else. Wow! Sometimes I think we really are an obsessive bunch. Instead of a wooden dowel, would some brass rod painted wood color work? Not that I'm also obsessive...

I zoomed in the bottom photo.... looks great. I thought the others were "in process" pics. No dishonesty.

Which quarks? The up, down, or strange? I've ordered some fresh Higg's Bosons so well see what happens.

Interesting tests, Mike. I like it. I think that light blue on the maple would work very well for bulwark area of the friezes. Hahn used RIT clothing dye for his and that worked well. I think the newer stains with color are probably easier and better.

What a lovely ship's boat. Sweet lines and planking.

Nicely fixed!!!!!

Before stripping off the rigging, try brushing it with a bit of white glue mixed 50/50 with water. It should add the sag back and might even take out some of the slack. As for the paint messed up.. I don't see it. You've gone this far, don't even think scrap box.

Look to the rudder cover for ideas. On the bowspit, they lined the opening (see Danny's Vulture log for this). You might do a search for pictures of Civil War ships but be choosey as some of the techniques for various things varied wildly between the North and the South.

Well done on those. They are tiny aren't they? I didn't realize how tiny until I saw the cutting mat.

John, From an interested observer... you might put it back in the jig and recheck before doing anything. It looks like the keel might have a bit of warp and thus, an optical illusion. If it is warped, remove and save the frames. Fix keel and put frames back on. I hope it's as easy as that and you won't have to start over.

Deadlights. After staring and thinking... I decided deadlights next. Not the frames yet but the black background part. Being a glutton for punishment, I decided to use ebony since I love the look of this wood. Which begat more contemplation because that stuff is a bit hard to work with. I think I found an adequate solution. Being fond of quick prototyping in many areas, I made up some deadlights from basswood. Gave it some thought and decided to make some ebony veneer. I tried to rip some down to 1/64" (.35mm)....by 1" (25mm) with the thin side coming off the 1" thick billet. Don't try it. I got it down to 1/32" (.7mm) before things starting exploding across the shop. Might have something to do with the blade but I wasn't going to kill a new Thurston blade on an experiment. Anyway... now I have to clean up fragments everywhere. I was using the table saw for this. I took the 1/32" inch thick piece that survived and ran it through the thickness sander to get it where I wanted it, glued the prototype deadlights to it and cut them out with the scroll saw. A bit of sanding and they fit about right. The pics show a gap but that will be covered by the window framing. Did I mention I hate macros... To the naked eye (or even with glasses on) it looks pretty good. I don't feel anything out of place running my fingers around everything, so that's good also. I'll re-fillet the glue joints on the framing and cut them down to shape. Also need to get the middle area of the counter fixed up with some wood for the landing of the counter plank ends at the rudder and stern post. First pic of the basswood and veneer laminated together for the deadlights. Second one is the installation and..hmm... wet glue. What the hey.. I'm having fun it's turning out well in my opinion. I past the point where Version 1.0 met it's end (the stern area) so I'll be carrying on.

Juergen, Well done on the fix. It's so well done, I don't see the fix.

I'm going to correct Greg slightly. Get "filler" not "putty". Filler can be sanded and stained usually and it dries hard. Putty usually doesn't stay hard as it's for filling old screw holes and the like.

Steve, The English used leather around the bowspit to pad the opening and waterproof it. Not sure what the Americans used in this particular time frame but possibly the same method.

Wow... what a great bit of detail.

Nice painting... the stern is shaping up very well.

Tracey, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2713-dafi´s-photo-etch-set-for-hms-victory-1100-heller-and-other-ships/ I'm not sure who else sell such items for that scale (or close to it).

A very impressive looking fleet, Ray.

That looks to be a nice planking run that you'll have, John.

Hmm...let me see if I can explain it better.... Look at the picture. For each line (in green) it would go from the sail, thorugh the blocks (red) to the next blocks (next to the mast) and then down to the deck. This set of lines would hold the foot of the sail in the proper position for use. Then, there's the blue lines... which are not on that drawing for some reason. They would run from the foot of the sail up to the blocks and then down to the deck. To furl the sails, the red would be loosened, and the blue would be pulled. Once up they would be furled by hand with crewmen on the footropes. I may not have the blocks for the blue lines in the correct position. They might be on the yard itself.

Nice work on the handle and miter box. That handle is work of art, Lextin.

Have a look here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-plans-and-research.php There's an article on understanding the lines drawings. There's also articles on using CAD for drawing the frames.