mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Nicely fixed!!!!!
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Before stripping off the rigging, try brushing it with a bit of white glue mixed 50/50 with water. It should add the sag back and might even take out some of the slack. As for the paint messed up.. I don't see it. You've gone this far, don't even think scrap box.
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Look to the rudder cover for ideas. On the bowspit, they lined the opening (see Danny's Vulture log for this). You might do a search for pictures of Civil War ships but be choosey as some of the techniques for various things varied wildly between the North and the South.
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Well done on those. They are tiny aren't they? I didn't realize how tiny until I saw the cutting mat.
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Mary Rose 1545 by tarbrush - Scale 1:72
mtaylor replied to tarbrush's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
John, From an interested observer... you might put it back in the jig and recheck before doing anything. It looks like the keel might have a bit of warp and thus, an optical illusion. If it is warped, remove and save the frames. Fix keel and put frames back on. I hope it's as easy as that and you won't have to start over. -
Deadlights. After staring and thinking... I decided deadlights next. Not the frames yet but the black background part. Being a glutton for punishment, I decided to use ebony since I love the look of this wood. Which begat more contemplation because that stuff is a bit hard to work with. I think I found an adequate solution. Being fond of quick prototyping in many areas, I made up some deadlights from basswood. Gave it some thought and decided to make some ebony veneer. I tried to rip some down to 1/64" (.35mm)....by 1" (25mm) with the thin side coming off the 1" thick billet. Don't try it. I got it down to 1/32" (.7mm) before things starting exploding across the shop. Might have something to do with the blade but I wasn't going to kill a new Thurston blade on an experiment. Anyway... now I have to clean up fragments everywhere. I was using the table saw for this. I took the 1/32" inch thick piece that survived and ran it through the thickness sander to get it where I wanted it, glued the prototype deadlights to it and cut them out with the scroll saw. A bit of sanding and they fit about right. The pics show a gap but that will be covered by the window framing. Did I mention I hate macros... To the naked eye (or even with glasses on) it looks pretty good. I don't feel anything out of place running my fingers around everything, so that's good also. I'll re-fillet the glue joints on the framing and cut them down to shape. Also need to get the middle area of the counter fixed up with some wood for the landing of the counter plank ends at the rudder and stern post. First pic of the basswood and veneer laminated together for the deadlights. Second one is the installation and..hmm... wet glue. What the hey.. I'm having fun it's turning out well in my opinion. I past the point where Version 1.0 met it's end (the stern area) so I'll be carrying on.
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Juergen, Well done on the fix. It's so well done, I don't see the fix.
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I'm going to correct Greg slightly. Get "filler" not "putty". Filler can be sanded and stained usually and it dries hard. Putty usually doesn't stay hard as it's for filling old screw holes and the like.
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Steve, The English used leather around the bowspit to pad the opening and waterproof it. Not sure what the Americans used in this particular time frame but possibly the same method.
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Nice painting... the stern is shaping up very well.
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Tracey, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2713-dafi´s-photo-etch-set-for-hms-victory-1100-heller-and-other-ships/ I'm not sure who else sell such items for that scale (or close to it).
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That looks to be a nice planking run that you'll have, John.
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Hmm...let me see if I can explain it better.... Look at the picture. For each line (in green) it would go from the sail, thorugh the blocks (red) to the next blocks (next to the mast) and then down to the deck. This set of lines would hold the foot of the sail in the proper position for use. Then, there's the blue lines... which are not on that drawing for some reason. They would run from the foot of the sail up to the blocks and then down to the deck. To furl the sails, the red would be loosened, and the blue would be pulled. Once up they would be furled by hand with crewmen on the footropes. I may not have the blocks for the blue lines in the correct position. They might be on the yard itself.
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Razor saw handle/miter box
mtaylor replied to qwerty2008's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nice work on the handle and miter box. That handle is work of art, Lextin. -
Have a look here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-plans-and-research.php There's an article on understanding the lines drawings. There's also articles on using CAD for drawing the frames.
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Tom, You're doing fine. When the first layer is completed, fill the low spots and sand the living daylights out of her until everything is smooth and fair. The second layer, go for the nice look. I made my own quarter galleries. But my log only has pictures as it's an executive summary of what was there back on MSW 1.0. It might give you some ideas on how to do the galleries.
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Jason, I think they are missing a block at the end of the yards. The line would go through the block instead of the hole. What these lines do is hold the foot of the sail out and spread. To furl or reef, the sheet line would be loosened and allow the sail to billow in the middle (if need be) or pulled up a furled.
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Thanks Michael. Here I was thinking the reverser was more like the one for a Lenco transmission as that's the only planetary transmission I'm remotely familiar with. Not familiar with enough to tear down and rebuild, however.
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A bit more shaping... You're right Popeye. But not much and mostly inside. Alternately, I can plank the ceiling such that there's a wood trim strip (I'm using Belle Poule's plans as reference) so that it won't be that noticeable. Plus, being inside, it'll mostly be hidden. Funny, I just figured it out... Hahn didn't plank the whole Great Cabin. The transom/stern area is left "raw". I'll take some shortcuts but only on the lower decks much the way I planned it on Version 1.0 but not in the Great Cabin or the rest of the gundeck. Anyway... back to contemplation on the next step. I find I'm having more success by visualizing what needs to be done before I do it. One of the next areas is where the sternpost and rudder come up through the counter. I need to put in some support for to terminating the counter planks. Also, on another topic, there's a discussion about tapering the wales to fit the rabbet. I need to sort out if the French did that. Research, contemplation, more research and maybe the smell of sawdust soon.
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Since the Bonhomme Richard sank and the crew sailed off in the Serapis, when would the crew have been taken prisoner by the British?
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Thanks Omega. Not a promotion as such. I stepped down. I've was a moderator for too many years and needed to have more time to myself. BTW, "Special Contributor" is the title given to all former moderators now, even though we're just members.
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Sweet work, Matti. As I recall, the rigging at times was a rat's nest but it all comes together. You're doing a great job.
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Daniel, You and the guys who do ships in bottle make my eyes hurt at the amount of detail you do in such small scales. Just amazing framing.
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