mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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That display area is just incredible. It really sets off the displays of ships and eggs. Atalanta should be right at home in there.
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Alan, I was thinking that the stem could be assembled as a subassembly.... It can on the Hahn style models but then again, his plans show them as one piece. But Druxey is right in that it "depends"...
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Druxey's right...my bad. I thought the rest of it was glued up already.
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Very beautiful, Piet. The lucky buyer will a work of art.
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
- Midwest Products
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Alan, Looking good. I think your problem is were the red line is on this photo.... If you don't want to redo, work in that area so the piece rotates into place.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
By jove, I think you have it!!!! Enjoy the movie.- 4,152 replies
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- cutty sark
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Mark, I believe the more time spent on getting the frames right and faired, the better. I found out the hard way which is why I'm on Version 2.0. Pictures are good because for some reason, things you don't see looking at the actual object really do stand out in a photo. Keep up the nice work.
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Steve. Looking very impressive. Here's a link... for $45 it's not a bad bit hardware: http://shipahoymodels.com/equipmentforsale.htm Near the bottom of the page. I have one and while it's not fancy or high-tech like Alexey's, it does a good job.
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- shenandoah
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Another amazing build, Patrick. Even more amazing when one realizes that this is lot smaller than the "normal" build.
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Good catch, Mark. I've discovered that also. It's best to take periodic measurements as the frames are set up and the spacers installed.
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- druid
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Ah but Lextin has already been seduced to the Darkside... and also to S.I.B. He's becoming an Jedi knight at this.
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Hi Adam, Nice to hear that you're healthy enough to get back in the shop. I quite agree about drilling holes.. a white-knuckle trip for sure. I hope you have the holes already drilled in the keel .. or will you mount it some other way.
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Excellent work, Popeye. Fixes go along with this hobby for some reason.
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- andrea gail
- trawler
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Sweet work on the sails. I've seen the tutorial but not pictures. You've brought that all together in my mind. Thanks!
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I hope you can get back into the shop soon, Grant. Is this a plans error somewhere?
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Richard, Worst case if you can't find any is to get some 14 gauge wire, heat it with a touch and hammer away to flatten it. Might take several times with the torch and after it's flat enough, hit it again with the torch and let air cool to anneal it and make it softer for bending. Edit: Heat the copper till it's red...
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Sweet boat, Piet. Looks exceptionally sharp.
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Sjors, The planks are scale size. Thus, a 1 foot (304.8 mm) wide plank in real life is 3/16" (4.7625 mm) wide on the model.
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Perfect, Alex!!!!!!!!!!
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Thanks for looking in and the "likes" and comments. Dan, I know you're right. I think I'm being stubborn again. I'll sand the pear to "close" to the ebony and finish with the scraping. Mike, Let's say ebony is interesting.... the dust is a bear to clean up, it kills blades very quickly and also discolors the tools from the oil. But!!! I love the way it looks. So it's a trade-off. As for using it again? I'm looking into alternatives. I tried some stain on some pear and it didn't take. It takes on boxwood well. Currently, I'm waiting on some Feibling's leather dye to come in. I want to try that using alcohol instead of water. Sjors, All scale planks in length, thickness, and width. If I look at the pictures of Hahn's build, I'm not sure he used scale planking but I'm giving it a try. I just need to be slow, patient, and careful.
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I agree with what David said. Also, your block on the fence is too far back. It should end just past the front edge of the blade. I reset my block depending on how high the blade is out of the saw. The blade should be about 1/16" above the top of the wood. What seems to be happening is the back of the blade is causing the plank to rise up and be thinned down after the cut. It's a trial and error process to find out what works best for you. Just make sure to keep your fingers away from the blade.. getting cut by them tosses blood everywhere and they hurt a lot. I found out the hard way during a moment's inattention.
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Thanks for looking in, everyone. Port side, first three strakes. Not too bad to my eye and I'm happy. The pics, though tell me that I'll have to do some sanding and shaping still around the joints and also to fair and smooth things out a bit. The big challenge here is the where the plank thickness changed and also where the hull shape changed due to the tumblehome. I'll fix things with some sanding and then finally scraping to get the ebony dust out of the Swiss pear grain. Onto the starboard side....
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