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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Gaetan, I would deeply appreciate that. I'll forward a copy to Chuck to have it put into the Article Database.
  2. Thanks for the likes and comments. I saw it.. fixed it. The macro has it's advantages sometimes. Thanks John. I think I needed that kick in the pants.
  3. I've often heard that that it's not about the destination but the journey that's important. I agree but this journey is currently being measured in inches and not miles. I added the timbers the taffrail will sit on and worked up and installed the two outer timbers for the counter. The whole stern area was then rough faired. Final fairing will be just before planking. The taffrail timber needs to be shaped after cutting loose the stern (the red curved line). I still have a lot of shaping to that curve and most can be done while it's in frame and on the build board but I need to set up the rest of the stern framing. This will be filling in the area between the final cant frame and the stern frames with framing for mounting the quarter galleries and the hatchway from the Great Cabin. I'm have some ideas on how to do this as this another area that Hahn is a little vague on how to do. Anyway enough out of me, here's the photos. Feel free to click on and enlarge them to see everything in horrible detail.
  4. Doc, It looks great. Beautiful work on everything. Just a minor point to keep in mind... on a wooden ship with a wooden deck, the trucks would not have been sheathed in metal as they would have torn the deck to shreds. The only time they were metal sheathed would have been in garrison on a stone fort or in the case of pivot guns using a metal track.
  5. Thanks Jerry. And thank you, Alexey. That goes a long way to help me sort some things out.
  6. Well, the holiday season is upon us and my Admiral and were talking about things. She brought up the question/suggestion of my making my own rope. I can sense what's going to happen.... So a question. Is there a formula or table of what size threads to use to make rope of a given size? I figure I got to be prepared.
  7. Druxey, This would mean than that the chains along with their cups, would have been exposed? Or do you think they just didn't include the tubes, etc. for simplicity's sake? I'm thinking that this type of stuff was the "common knowledge" that was never written down.
  8. Nice cannon work, Augie. Use my philosophy... If they growl, hug them. If they scream and turn red in the face, run across the room to a safe place and throw chocolate at them. :D
  9. Nice work on the bow, Sjors. It seems everyone has trouble with the stern and bow on this ship.... you've done well, sir.
  10. So first scratch build... you claim. Looks like you've doing this all your life. The frames and jig look great.
  11. Daniel, On the Queen cross-section.... it looks like the lower pumps are chain pumps (cistern) and elm-trees. The lower chain pumps have square 'pipe' and the elm-trees have hexagon 'pipes'. Neither set of pumps has any detail such as dales or pump handles. The upper pumps are elm-trees... hexagon 'pipes'. The ones I think are elm-trees is due to their length above the deck and the hexagon shape. Note the number of, let's call them pipes) going up from the lowest deck and that they stop at two decks pump areas. Those hexagon things on the upper.... I have no idea.
  12. wq, The tiller was overhead along the beams. Hatches, knees, etc. were all part of the "normal" for them. You'd be wrong in your assumption of the guns not being installed. Maybe in times of peace as many ship were not completely fitted out with guns and crew. The ship I'm currently building even had cabins on the quarterdeck for the officers and higher ranks (it was French). It was common on other nations also and these cabins would be removed during time of war.
  13. Ouch on the wrong cut. I'm surprised the air didn't turn blue down this far south. That crank is just impressive. But since you told us, you can't get away with the old hot rodder's line of "I grooved the bearing journals and crank for improved oil flow."
  14. Those were spliced on Vulture? I was thinking they would have had the hooks, though that was probably later. Well done on that bit of tricky rigging, Danny.
  15. Hi Warren, Trust the instructions. Do tick marks down the hull in the middle of the hull (or thereabouts) with each mark being the width of the plank, Count the marks, as that is how many planks you need. Now measure the hull fore and aft and divide the measurements by the number of planks. You'll see that the planks will need tapering even with the sheer. Make sure that the measuring and tick marks are on the wood itself and not by using a ruler or T-square standing proud next to the model. I hope this helps.
  16. Thanks for the tips and tutorials, Nenad. Very insightful and useful.
  17. Nice work, Lou. I also like the contrast. As for the "like" notifications... check your settings in your profile and see if they changed.
  18. Here's a couple of tricks when the blade only needs honing a bit... Danny Vadas posted (and I can't find it now, naturally) that he strops the blade edge of an x-acto blade against the back side of another one. A version of using a steel. I'm an old tech writer and picked up a trick from the old board and ink draftsman... a piece of typing paper. Before every use, strop the blade on it. Even a new blade. Also works with chisels.
  19. Excellent work, Nenad. I think they look wonderful. Macros and close ups are NOT our friend.. but on your Cutty, they still look great.
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