Old Collingwood
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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Thinking about what EG said regarding the counter balance on the piviot point, I could perhaps rig up a small length of chain that would be hidden close to the breech /body near the inner mantlet, this could keep the barrel from level to max elevation, but the natural counter balance weight at the piviot point should keep it level and pull against the chain, it would still be free enought to elevate the barrel thought, and would not be seen........ideas.......ideas. OC. -
They are designed like wave guides to help reduce the ships RCS. Their is a fourth rib on top of the bridge structure - but by their positioning, it appears that they might be related to the Seawolf guidance radars, they might be radar absorbent material placed so as to reduce reflections from the superstructure that would otherwise interfere with tracking targets. OC.
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Thank you kindly mate, yep quite a bit of thought process gone into that - also the majority of the Internals form the M1 kit (no problem though as I will be building that one with lots of extaernal goodies). OC.
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Any help I can offer - just shout (I have Big Ears) lol. OC.
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- prince of wales
- tamiya
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Thats good to know mate, will follow that with interest when you start. OC.
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M29 Weasel family 1/72 (scratch) by Backer Finished
Old Collingwood replied to Baker's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Not just about the size - but you have Four on the go at the same time.......😲 OC. -
Evening all, the gun Breech I complete - built painted and weathered slightly, think I have done a reasonable job of it. OC.
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I will try to conterbalance the weight so its neutral at the trunnion point. OC.
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Interesting find for when I do my MIA2 Up armoured. OC. https://www.thedrive.com/the-war-zone/8144/u-s-army-m1-abrams-tanks-in-europe-are-getting-explosive-reactive-armor https://www.tankroar.com/2020/08/03/abrams/
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Have a look at this guys work - he is in the UK also and very reasonable and excellent work. OC. https://acorndisplays.co.uk/
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What a cool idea, I had a nightmare stopping my ropes from fuzzing, I had to use watered down PVA on then in the end. OC.
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Excellent work - Love the weathering, you going to do what I did with the masts/spars - use wood for the insides of the masts and all wood spars - will help to stop bending or snapping when rigged. OC.
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You should get a kit of a M113 Lou, would be so fitting and kind of your - getting them back for not letting you loose in one - in service. OC.
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I agree with Greg. Fully recommend the Academy 1/350 Warspite (as I built her in the forum) Its a Superb kit and well worh getting the Full Potos Update set for it as it includes - Decking, lots and lots of PE goodies even some brass and Resin parts. I know you would do a Fantastic job of that. OC.
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I think few of us know how to put into propper words what we see here - its just top draw magic. OC.
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That is so cool mate - not envious at all you ....you person.😁 They can move quite quick aswel 30-40mph on the roads I understand? always loved the bulk and shape of the M6A3, did the Tamiya one years back. OC.
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Evening all, bit of a late update - I am currently working on the Breech mechanism attaching it to the cradle and the mantlet, I have used a few of the stock M1 parts for this but going by the Chally photos I have, I am modifying it somewhat to show some quite good detail, I will be leaving it in a free elevation state by just gluing the two locating lugs down but leaving the trunion lugs un-glued. Pics tomorrow. OC.
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What a Fantastic looking build - can't wai to see more, Warm welcome to the "Plastic play Party" OC.
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Glad I could be of help Mike. OC.
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Thanks Lou, yep they are very advanced these days - but bet that M60 ride was fun? OC.
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Great work Mike, I also remember enjoying my one and only 1/700 ship - something about having everything in a small area. OC.
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- hatsuzakura
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Indeed mate. OC.
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I'm gonna send my Chally in.😛 OC.
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Dont know if it might help - but don't they advice or suggest burnishing down the edge of the tape when its in place? also with my method on my Mossie and Spit with Blue Tack work great as long as you have it stuck well to the model, and as EG said - the thicker the hight of the worm shape Blue Tack - the more subtle the camo will be. OC.
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Evening all, painting day - started with about Four thin layers of dull White, then it was the turn of the Black details, after this was dry I did a couple of thin watered down washes - this was then brushed off to leave just a few stained area, then I did some detail painting this was followed up with a bit of highlighting - I think it will do considering it wont be seen. OC.
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