Maury S
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Everything posted by Maury S
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I wouldn't rig it this way! Single sheet, attached (with a tackle to a "horse") somewhere near the stern. There are many examples of model plans and even museum models obviously made by someone who's never sailed or read much about it. Maury
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Wood glue
Maury S replied to H March's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I've used Titebond forever and 91% Iso works just fine. Maury -
I bought one package of 2mm double, one 2mm single and one package of 3/32" (2.5mm) double blocks in error. I will sell them for Chuck's price ($9.75) , free postage in the U.S. Packages have 25 pieces. I will also trade for some 1/8" and/or 3/16" singles or doubles. Send me a PM. Maury
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Per Dr PR, they can not be rigged as standing because the boom would hit them. They must be removable at the deck level. The term is a running back stay that is moved prior to a tack or jibe. That means some sort of tackle to hook and unhook the stay...Not deadeyes. Maury
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I'm still waiting on my Speedwell II ordered in November... Maury
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She's a great boat. So special that she's been restored several times over the decades and is the oldest such boat in the US. The lines are beautiful and not enough attention has been paid to her as a model. Maury
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No blocks necessary. Probably a midshipman's hitch or a taut line hitch will hold very well. Maury
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Making rope coils, tightening up some lines, working on the display case. THe bottom of the case is a mirror. I'm making a "decorative" banding on top of the mirror. 3/8" band set into 1/8 thick ply. The slot for the banding was done on the mill. One has a choice of hundreds of patterns. We chose one that will compliment the boat, not detract. I did this on a previous model case and it looks very nice. Maury
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OMG, Gaetan, You're the most organized person I've run into! Maury
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There are plenty of details in the reconstruction booklet. No original plans exist. The plans done by Ben Lankford which you have referenced are quite detailed and I think you can do a lot of detail at that scale. Additional info on schooners, much of it period metal work, of the period can be found in Chapelle's "American Fishing Schooners". Years ago I built that kit at 3/8" scale (1:32). At 1:32, the model is close to 27" long and 29" tall so keep in mind the space necessary to display. She's a lovely model. I'm Currently thinking about doing a POF at 1:48 with her as a schooner (most of her existence was as a schooner). Good luck, Maury
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Aspen is very soft (350 - 450 Janka rating). I've used it for deck-house sides, etc for it's color. Does not carve well. See ratings: https://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/ideas/wood-hardness-chart-bigger-better-more-woods.html Maury
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One more thing...searching for gauze or cheesecloth to cover the ventilation holes (1/8"), I found the micro-thin layer of a "band-aid" that covers the gauze is perfect. It has VERY small holes and is so thin that it wont get rubbed off when assembling the frame. Gauze and cheesecloth "holes" are almost as big as the ventilation hole. Maury
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The saws that cut the wood that made the ships.
Maury S replied to bruce d's topic in Nautical/Naval History
This is amazing. Not sure how the "Death by Saw" illustration (p. 19) applies except as a warning for 21st C. saw safety. Maury -
I use "Museum Glass" which protects against UV intrusion. Mounting is crucial as the protection is one-way. The full sheet has a laser marking showing which side faces the art. On the cut pieces, the glazier usually marks which side is which. Not sure I would put any artwork in front of a sunny window. Quite expensive ($300 for all the pieces of the case). Hobby Lobby's picture framing department is my source and this time they cut the glass EXACTLY to my specifications.
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Druxey, Good Point. The booklet does not mention this and I have always put two holes in the frames of all my models as you suggest. Never used gauze but it's a good suggestion. Maury
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I've finished the ratlines and started cleaning up lines, cleats, etc. While the weather is mild, I started on the display case. It's the same as the last two I've done. I highly recommend Wes Marden's booklet "Build Your Own Model Ship Case". I started with a piece of cabinet-grade ply, cut to the size I want (+ 2" on all sides). Decorative molding is cut and installed around the ply, which creates a jig for the rest of the construction. Frame pieces are cut (mitered) to size for the base and top. Stanchions are carefully cut the the proper identical length. That's assured by taping all four together before cutting. Grooves are cut into all the pieces to accept the glass and test-assembled. Lots more details to do it right...so buy his little booklet. I will put a mirror on the bottom, maybe add some decorative strips. (Admin...feel free to relocate this post if appropriate). Maury
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Very nice job on the planking!!! MAury
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Bolin, You will eventually find out that the drawplate for metal is not a good tool for working with wood. It is made to compress the wire while a wood draw plate like the Byrnes tool.. https://byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html shaves off the outer edges. As you start making thinner nails, you'll appreciate the difference. 😀 Maury
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Rigging: All of the running rigging is installed and most tied off to pins or cleats. The lanyards are finished off with three cow hitches and the tails tied with "string" (thread). Working on the ratlines. Real world they are 3/4", so I'm using Syren's .015" dark brown line. I set up a background plan with horizontal lines every 16", held in place with tweezers). For the main mast, there are only two shrouds plus the top mast backstay so the ratlines only go across the two shrouds (except for the lowest). Chapelle's American Fishing Schooners says that often there were ratlines on one side for the fore and the other side for the main. Lots more to go. Once all are tied, I'll put a bit of matte medium on them to keep them shaped properly. Maury
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Framing, best materials
Maury S replied to Levmiller's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I prefer Box which is impossible to find any more. Years ago I used Cherry for frames on the Fair American (Lauckstreet kit) and the color has deepened to a beautiful brown. Maury -
I just watched a video of the Auriou factory making rasps BY HAND. Amazing. Maury
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I can't believe it's been two months since I posted last. I've been working off and on towards finishing the rigging. Jib halyards, main and fore sheets plus some minor things left to go. Pictures later. Maury
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We used this site before for great scale hooks. He has them back in stock. Three sizes. (I have no interest in this site). http://www.propblur.com/store/p114/RiggingHooks20.html Maury
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