vossiewulf

Every experience I've had with teak, it ate edge tools alive. It has a nice natural slipperiness that helps but the plane iron edges are like you're planing sandpaper.

Also, where is the wood lock on this rudder? And I assume cutters had rudder pendants, right? The contemporary models don't show them but it's basically crazy to go to sea without some secondary rudder attachment. 

Short update, I finished the cap rails and cleaned up everything and painted a satin clear coat over everything, especially the deck. I really don't like how that polyurethane looked, so proving you can paint anything over anything if you let it dry enough, I switched to real nitrocellulose lacquer, the Mohawk brand used by luthiers. It's dried a week now, I need to hit it with 1500 and then shoot a final coat. The satin is still a tad glossy for my tastes, I may mix it down a little bit with matte.

Otherwise, when I've had time, I've been figuring out numerous creative ways for how not to make pintles and gudgeons. But I'm making progress now. Also I am still waiting for my boxwood square stock for the yards from Crown, and trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the guns. I thought I had measured everything but I forgot to measure the very important height above deck, and the 6 pounders from Chuck are just too big, I'll use them one something else later. But the 3 pounders in the kit are only 17mm and look tiny for the carriages. I've ordered some 20mm "swivel guns" and will see if they look better.

And I got likes from Chris Watton! Woohoo! (runs around the room high-fiving everyone)

Sorry for your loss, Pat.

I'd suggest alcohol-based aniline dye rather than water-based like Ritt, it would dry much faster and not effect the line in any way except coloring it. I don't like pigment-based stains, they always obscure what they're staining to some degree, most staining I do now is with dye.

Does the Minwax not affect your ability to glue the rigging as required? I would think it would.

I would add a small Zona hand saw to the list Amateur provided. Also fingernail files in various grits are cheap and reasonably effective replacements for lots of files.

Planking is obviously something doable from all the models you see here, but it's not easy the first time. Look in the forums for the section on planking and framing models and read up there and look for the planking tutorial videos you can find there.

Don't cheat and go quick on the first planking layer, go slowly and try to plank it exactly as you would do the second layer. That way the first layer acts as a practice run for the second planking layer, which will go much better as a result.

You need patience for ship modeling. Planking can take a while, as will rigging- you just have to plug ahead and keep making progress.

Spend lots of time reading other build logs. You will learn immense amounts from doing so.

Look in the gallery of completed models here for Le Hussard, people usually upload quite a few pics that show the finished ship from many directions and that can very much help figure out what you need to do and what certain parts are and what they should look like when finished.

Someone else with much more knowledge would have to confirm but I think the square mizzen topsail over a lateen-rigged course places it in the late 1600s/early 1700s. At least the development sequence I remember is lateen course > lateen course + square topsail > Lateen course with no sail ahead of the mast + square topsail > Loose foot gaff course + square topsail > Spanker boom added, spanker + square topsail.

1 hour ago, RPaul said:

Missed that one, thanks, although I've been to that website. Still, no plans, only history.

I would contact them, as the standing authority for lighthouses they're most likely to have plans, even if they're not publicly offering them on their site. And wouldn't enough good photographs serve the purpose? If you know the height of the lighthouse from standard data, you could scale everything from good quality photos.

I just typed "Scotland Lighthouse Authority" into Google and it returned the Northern Lighthouse Board. They don't seem to have plans, but they have photographs and information about all lighthouses in Scotland.

Welcome Toni, if you get a micromotor you'll indeed really be pleased with the purchase. They're much smaller, lighter, more powerful, higher RPM, and much quieter than Dremels with easily an order of magnitude less runout.

With 3D printing, I'm still waiting for a photolithographic (laser) machine that seems to work consistently much cheaper than they are today. About the only one that seems to work well is the Formlabs 2 and it is $3500. I keep looking at reviews of much cheaper ones, but they all sound like a lot of frustration and not much good printing.

The extrusion machines can try to make thinner layers, but they have fundamentally lower detail and still come out with visible layers and an uneven surface. I used to be a 3D artist in the games industry, so I'm lucky in that I wouldn't have to learn 3d modeling from scratch, I can already model anything and I keep myself reasonably active with it. So actually if anyone is dying for some modeling work that wouldn't take 1000 hours, I might be able to help.

First up on the printer would probably be some of my Battletech models

Yeah, agreed that brass output is more aesthetically pleasing and why we like heft I don't know but we do. But the subject was need a cheap way to add guns to a build. At least people should remember that they could turn beautifully detailed cannon for an entire Victory build for about $5 in acrylic rod.

I've wondered why people don't use acrylic rod to scratch guns. It's cheaper and easier to turn than brass and holds at least as much detail, and is indistinguishable from brass once painted.

He's a fully automated MMM (Miniature Masterpiece Machine).

Micromotors are small brushless high-torque rotary tools.

He said, tapping his foot impatiently.

That's getting close to micromotor size, that's nice. Now if they could just make them brushless and use rare earth magnets for the torque... I seriously thought 12 years ago when I bought my micromotor that the technology would get less expensive and filter down to Dremel within a decade. Instead, micromotors have gotten relatively much more expensive for reasons I don't understand. The setup I have literally costs twice as much now as it did 12 years ago in a period of never more than 3% inflation.

Guess we have to hope the Chinese will make some reasonable-quality micromotors or Dremel figures out how to make one at reasonable cost. In the meantime, this 2050 looks like a good choice if it has enough torque for carving away at wood.

I don't have OCD, I just have an uncontrollable urge to make sure everything is perfectly right and straight and aligned at all times. Totally different!

Thank god, I was feeling seriously inadequate. There was a build log for a guy who built a very nice, coppered, and highly detailed model of the USS Kearsarge in three months, and I thought that was crazy. What I was seeing here was super crazy

In case you don't know, you'll need a couple shallow-curve carving gouges for the hull, at least if the bulkheads are part of the solid hull, and some wood rasps will also help remove the excess wood quickly. When you get close, some curved and straight scrapers can remove wood pretty quickly with good control.

Your first post was Jan.16 and nine days later you have an almost completed admiralty model with fantastic joinery. I've decided you don't have 8 arms, you have at least 16, with four independently-operating heads. Seriously that's amazing.

On 1/22/2019 at 10:38 AM, Nirvana said:

Mr. Watton, I am glad to see you are going outside the manufacturer line, and creating your own choice of "kits". Just like Mr. Passaro. I can see a line of potential customers for your products.

If they haven't thought of it yet, @Chuck and Mr. Watton should think about either entirely merging or at least synergizing their operations, with Chuck supplying certain fittings/rigging line/wood upgrades etc. 

But a single model company with kits designed by Chuck and Chris? Sign me up  

26 minutes ago, Drazen said:

 

- in winter constantly below 30%, sometimes below 25% (yesterday measured 20% - this is dry like a gunpowder 🙂  )

 

- in summer constantly higher than 75%, even 80% or 85% humidity

That's going to put serious stress on just about any wood object, please don't leave any good musical instruments in your cellar, either.

You don't need to close off everything, just get a humidifier with an automatic setting so it turns on whenever the humidity drops below a set point. With your summer humidity, I'd set it to 50%, few things have a problem with a 20-25% humidity change over the year. I had one at a previous house that I bought on Amazon for about $150. I had to fill it with water every day which was a bit of a pain, but it was better than damage to my wood stuff.

As others are saying above, cracks appearing in wood objects is always a moisture problem, either the humidity where it is stored is varying over a wide range or pieces of wood used in construction were not fully seasoned and stable. 

If it's a humidity problem, as others noted a humidifier is the solution. If it's because not fully seasoned (dried) wood was used, there wouldn't be much you could do other than rip that wood out.

And sorry you're having this problem, that's a sad thing to happen to a pretty model.