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barkeater

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Everything posted by barkeater

  1. barkeater
    Looks good. I have never used an air brush so don't know anything about them.
  2. barkeater
    looks good.
  3. barkeater
    Looks like it is coming along nicely.
  4. barkeater
    That's a pretty cool idea to build all the ships with the same name as the vessel you served on and the ships you list are quite varied in size and time period. I look forward to seeing your progress.
  5. barkeater
    Welcome to the forum. I'm a New Jersey builder also.
  6. barkeater
    Both are nice but I also would go with the bottom.
  7. barkeater
    oops. my bad
  8. barkeater
    If you want sheets try Rockler. Easier to do hulls where you use a lot of wood strips by buying strips on line imo.
  9. barkeater
    You don't indicate single or double planked. If double I use boxwood for first planking and then do the hull in walnut. Cherry would work as well. Boxwood strips of various widths and thicknesses are widely available which is why I don't rip my own. Same with walnut and cherry although I do rip these unless I need a lot of them in which case ordering is easier. You can also use Tanganyika for a first layer. Just looked at Model Expo and they have both boxwood and Tanganyika to get you started. Other sources will have as well.
  10. barkeater
    This is how I did it on Badger. Nothing elaborate.
  11. barkeater
    You don't mention heat/steam bending. If you aren't then pre-bending or shaping your plank will make final gluing a lot easier.
  12. barkeater
    I agree that it is probably a glue stain. My guess is that you were using cyanoacrylate glue which is known to do this and is tough to sand out as it penetrates the wood. Switch to polyvinyl alcohol (wood glue or yellow glue) and you will solve your problem going forward. My recommendation is to only use CA when bonding plastic or metal to wood. Wood to wood use PVA.
  13. barkeater
    I agree with everybody above. The most commonly used for ship modelling are the smaller numbered bits 61 to 80. The only thing I would add is that when you decide on a size for say trunnels or other frequently used application where drilling is required to buy in bulk. You can buy them by the pack on Amazon or other retailer and they are inexpensive. I use #72 for trunnels and because of the small size, I break them fairly routinely.
  14. barkeater
    Looks great. I'm getting ready to convert a portion of a barn into a workshop myself. Like how you did the counter and nice placement of outlets above
  15. barkeater
    Like the stern windows. What did you cut them from?
  16. barkeater
    Byrnes.
  17. barkeater
    Really like the stove. I assume you are going to leave the door to the cook shack open.
  18. barkeater
    It would not work in your 1/96 scale but in 1/48 scale which I do, I use round toothpicks which I cut and shape to size. Pretty easy to do and they look good.
  19. barkeater
    To hold your line tight until the glue dries just leave some extra and use a clip as a weight and dangle it over the outboard side. Also if you are adding multiple lines to say a yard you can keep the tension on all your lines using this method until you have them all adjusted to you liking and the glue all at the same time. Rich
  20. barkeater
    I have not had a problem with drooping lines. I don't glue pins. I cinch the lines around the pins a couple times as you would securing a regular size vessel then glue with thinned white glue. I then coil a separate line, place over the pin and glue again with thinned carpenters glue.
  21. barkeater
    I have used ebony for wales. Very hard to bend requiring multiple soak and heat cycles. I have a few pieces left saved for future builds and accents such as anchors. The only pieces I have seen in the last few years are single rough boards at extreme prices. There are a lot of really nice types of wood you can use instead.
  22. barkeater
    I have used Modelers Central several times and have been happy with their service. Shipping time is surprisingly good considering I'm half a world away. I like that their wood strips are longer than anybody else I have used.
  23. barkeater
    It's pretty easy to make your own and with the number of hooks needed for a build it is aslo more economical. I use silver wire for added strength as compared to craft wire and solder the eye.
  24. barkeater
    Both look good to me.
  25. barkeater
    Sorry, I have no great suggestions on keel tapering other than sanding. On tarred joints I lightly run a black indelible marker along edges. You may want to try that on scrap. It is quick and I like the look. You do not have to cover the surfaces completelly if you do both of the two adjacent planks.

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