hexnut

Great to see this finished. Even as a static build it looks really fast...nice work!

What Canute said. If you want to do the "post-wreck" version, perhaps you can add the 1/700 scale Trumpeter kit to the base as an inset after finishing the the full 1/350 version...

I have been very happily watching your wonderful work, thank you for sharing it with us. The railings are beautiful. Speaking of beautiful, the KW-88 is one very clean and nicely turned-out craft. Most of the trawlers I grew up watching (In Gloucester and Boston, USA ) looked a bit more like the below-water section on the Dutch vessel...

Well, if no one else will pick up the other hints...

I didn't want to "Blow" anyone's chance to guess by posting more than the date... The dialog I posted is from a different film-- let's just say "The holy grail" of sea movies...

Snappy dialog for 1951... At least the conversation wasn't: Now, in fairness to all of you... I'm honor bound to ask this question. Is there anyone here who does not wish to be a member of Her Majesty's Navy? Me, sir. Is there anyone else who is reluctant to serve? Right. If, by chance, some of you may feel that the discipline on this ship... is a trifle on the harsh side of strict... let me remind you that it is our duty to seek out and destroy... Her Majesty's enemies... Give them a taste of the lash before they've done anything. - Preventive punishment, that's the principle. - Yes, sir.

I think Kees de Mol's "Antje" build of a Dutch trawler might be a very good reference for hull construction--maybe just the solid hull without the thermo-forming, depending upon your shop facilities... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8435-kw49-antje-dutch-sidetrawler-by-kees-de-mol-1959-scale-175/

Even though these are for later ships, they seem like they could be cut to fit and omit the hand rails...(the Tom's photo etch parts that I've worked with trims fairly easily, and seems fairly adaptable) http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_37&products_id=440

Frank, awesome link, thanks! I know personally, I've always thought of : "a Pacific islands rig", not the true wide variety shown by any great seafaring group of people, thanks for illuminating...

Sorry, I should have noticed your location: http://www.polish-up.com.au/products/novus-compound-kit.html (I promise I'm not a sales rep, I've just had good luck using the stuff...)

Great build! I recommend this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Scratch-Remover-bottles/dp/B000J41VDM# for the plastic gauge covers, it also works great as a final clear coat shine.

Ouch on the calf. I did kick-boxing for a number of years until I reached the age that I spent more time trying to heal than staying in shape... Glad to see you back in the shop. Personally, I plan to distance myself from any sharp objects tomorrow night, hope I won't need a blood-pressure cuff. .. GO PATS!!

The model is very nice, lovely deck and shape. It will look great in any bottle you choose, but i notice that the shape of bottle #5 harmonizes very nicely with the keel shape of your hull...

The little Wasp looks great. (as well as the rest of the project.) Did you do the CAD model to make it?

hmmm. Have you tried this? (Quoted from: https://forum.solidworks.com/thread/27569 ) For reasons I don't understand, Select, Ctrl + C and Ctr+ V brought in a much better image than Insert > Picture > Browse.I use an open source graphics software (GIMP), not Adobe, and am running SW 2012. The logo image was an 800 KB Tif file, which I'd sized to 19 mm high X 45 mm long, and 400 ppi in GIMP. It was not compressed. When pasted (Ctr+V'd) into my template, it appeared larger than all my other attempts. (Prior attempts with Insert > Picture all came in an inappropriate large size, mostly regardless of image size or resolution, except for some tiny PNGs. Some of the images looked good when first brought in, but fell to pieces when I scaled them down to the size I wanted.) But this time, when I scaled the logo within SolidWorks by dragging a corner of it, it didn't turn into a jagged-edged, pixelly mess with fine lines all melted away. It looked, well, legible.

You may have already done this, but but it helps immensely to very carefully level the bed, using a couple of high-quality machinist's bubble levels. My office is in an old mill building, and I was surprised at the amount of shimming and tweaking I had to do to get it right, even though the bed is less than 32" overall.

Thanks for the weblink. (for those of us that don't have your skill and patience. ) As far as pro tips, it would not have occurred to me to crank the lathe while unplugged for cutting tool steel. It makes perfect sense now that you have explained it. Thanks! (I may try that at some point, but 80tpi won't be my 1st experiment! )

would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Outside-Diameter-Special-Pitch/dp/B00OZ6B8JC

BTW, speaking of inspiration, Torrens/Michael, I really like your work! (aviation as well as maritime) Howard I. Chappelle was definitely a big one for me. His "The History of American Sailing Ships" is a great intro book, with a nice section at the front that shows plans of the British sloop Ferret and gives clear explanations for the various construction and projections (waterlines, stations, buttocks, diagonals, etc.) that comprise a set of ship's plans, along with definitions for different parts and pieces. "The American Fishing Schooners" is a very densely-packed book, with awesome plans and details. For someone like me, who literally didn't know a gammon from a gudgeon starting out, It was quite frankly like trying to read a foreign language without first reading his "History of American Sailing ships" book. For anyone into schooners, this book is fantastic. I wouldn't have been able to build a decent hull shape on my lobster smack without "American small sailing craft" Enough interesting plans for several lifetimes of scratchbuilding. For ships that aren't built of wood, I recently picked up John T. Alden's "The American Steel Navy: A Photographic History of the U.S. Navy from the Introduction of the Steel Hull in 1883 to the Cruise of the Great White Fleet, 1907-1909" A ton of great photographs, profile views, some nice historical tidbits in the text. If one is interested in the category, highly recommended.

Tuffarts summed it up nicely. I use the gray for a first and sanding pass, or under flat black, the white for finer detail and under brighter colors. All Tamiya TS (water borne lacquer) spray cans yield a nice, fine spray, but also work well when decanted (spray though a soda straw into a cup) and used in an airbrush. Just don't leave airbrush parts in lacquer thinner too long while cleaning, as it will eventually eat the o-rings... (ask me how I know )

What is the total width in pixels of your original?

Possibly the issue is that SW brings in bitmaps @ 1pixel = 1mm, but it has an upper limit in bitmap size: "If you insert a sketch picture of a .tiff file, the resolution is limited to 4096 x 4096. Files that exceed this limit are cut in half until both dimensions meet the limit. For example, if you insert a .tiff file that is 5000 x 3000, the file is reduced to 2500 x 1500. " from: http://help.solidworks.com/2014/English/SolidWorks/sldworks/c_Sketch_Picture.htm?id=77ff4d3c54244bd1bc54871fb6cc9a7f I wonder if making the original bitmap sized within this frame @300 dpi would help? Or if you are already doing that, I guess I got nothin...

I was going to say that I've had good success bending thin-wall tubing with a styrene rod as a mandril, but it looks like you have the situation more than well in hand...

I haven't seen anyone here tackle it, but there is a nice build review here: http://modelingmadness.com/review/misc/ships/robertoqm2.htm There is also this: http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/pe/gm_etch/400-09-queenmary/ship_details.html If your friend's skills are anything approaching yours, should be a beautiful display when finished...

This is, literally, a privilege to watch. When you de-soldered the bearings, did you leave some tinning on the surface for babbiting effect, or are you going w/ straight brass?