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hexnut

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Everything posted by hexnut

  1. hexnut
    Tamiya TS33 hull red over white?
  2. hexnut
    Wow, I got intrigued by this, but I don't think that I'm smart enough to play this game. I'm assuming post- seige of Saigon and post-Crimea? Down to just guessing now. Arbalete class? It's not currently a car ferry like the Rendel-pattern Tyr, is it?
  3. hexnut
    Could it be just an oddly foreshortened shot of the Marengo? Or maybe a floating battery like L'Arrogante?
  4. hexnut
    What about substituting a 1/4" thick Acrylic (plexi) mirror plate for the wooden base? You could drill through it to mount the acrylic rods, (with a small stand-off to hide the screw heads) that way it would be easier to see all of your awesome interior detail. Just a thought...
  5. hexnut
    No apology required. American ships-of-the line are fascinating and under-represented subjects, so the absolute kindest gift you could give to all of us is continuing to post photos of your great work!
  6. hexnut
    If you prefer metal, there are low-temp tin-bismuth alloys that work with silicone molds: http://www.micromark.com/casting-metal-type-280-75-ozand135-cubic-inch,8331.html I haven't done this in a while, but as I recall, they flow nicely, just add some wires and cones to your master for pour and vent areas. As Druxey mentioned, Micromark also sells resin and various casting media.
  7. hexnut
    I hear the phrase "museum quality" from time to time, but that description seems very appropriate here!
  8. hexnut
    Cap'n Bob, that's been my experience. I did post a short tutorial on using illustrator to fix old bitmap plans,(post #11) it's probably info you already know... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6361-need-help-enlarging-image-to-start-first-kit-over/
  9. hexnut
    This is so cool. Makes me want to get out the ascot, blue blazer and white ducks and go sailing with the other rich folk...
  10. hexnut
    Actually, you don't really need parametric capability to model complex surfacing. I use Rhino as a concept/quick modelling tool before parts go into a parametric program for engineering and tooling (in the past, Pro/E, nowadays usually Solidworks) and I find Rhino pretty nice for ship hulls. (It was originally developed for marine architecture.) Parametrics is a double-edged sword. The great thing about having a history tree comes when you do something like change your rib spacing from 12" to 16" for instance, and need to dynamically update all geometry. Doing the same operation in Rhino, you need to save a version before the operation to go back to and rebuild the relevant layer. At the front end while developing surfaces from lofted curves and offsets, it actually makes things a bit tougher as you have to do more pre-planning. Rhino is also pretty cheap for good, functional 3-d (under 1k us$) compared to Solidworks. It is however trickier(although still very doable) to make watertight parts to 3-d print, as it is primarily a surface modeler rather than a true solid modeler. I think a common theme of this thread is that we will all push the platform with which we are most familiar. In general, there is as always, a bit of an inverse ratio between money spent on software and time required to get top-notch results. (free sketchup does some things, it takes a lot of time to create advanced things, Dassault System's Catia is completely brilliant, but you have to be GM or Airbus to afford it...) My personal feeling as someone who used a drafting table and then Autocad for years, is that I am way too lazy nowadays to go back to 2d drawings, but that's just me...
  11. hexnut
    The white boot stripe really sets off the wood nicely! Are you going to stain the coaming to match the transom?
  12. hexnut
    I'd love to see pictures. I started one years ago, removed all of the railings to go the photoetch route, but it's been sitting on the shelf unfinished for a long time...
  13. hexnut
    In my experience, if you want good results, there really is now way around "laborious". The stuff that I do for work is on deadline, so I push the drying times and skip steps sometimes, but it is a tough compromise. If you want perfect, slow and laborious is the best way to do it. Also, don't just compare flat surfaces, compare curved forms to get a better feel for what's going on.
  14. hexnut
    What density Ren are you using? The following process works well for the 460: I usually prime with Tamiya grey for smaller models, sand @ about 400 grit or so, do final patch filling with red lead-type filler. Ideally, allow a day or so for the filler and primer to outgas and settle. A coat or 2 of tamiya white primer, sand, lay on color coat (mist, let dry for about 20 minutes, cover coat) It helps if you warm the spray cans a bit in a hot water bath. For small areas, tight inside radii and intricate detail that may get lost under the spray can coat, I will sometimes tape a straw to the nozzle and decant some paint into an airbrush. I use micro mark sanding pads http://www.micromark.com/soft-touch-sanding-and-polishing-pad-set-set-of-6,7787.html to knock down irregularities, and lay down a smooth base. I use the coarser pads after the white primer, sometimes after the mist coat if I still have some bad spots. then I use the finer pads up to about 6000, to get a smooth finish, but still leave enough tooth for the clear coat. This stage is where I do any decals, graphics and effects painting. I use (surprise) Tamiya clear coat, again mist and cover coats, ideally let dry for 24 hours before final polishing. Use the fine pads with a bit of water, so they don't build up particulate and scar the finish, Finish off with a fine, high-end auto wax or Novis 2-part plastic wax/spray.
  15. hexnut
    Renshape is actually the reason I haven't worked with wood in the approx. 30 years before I tried messing with model ships again. It is a cast urethane material. Bonds with CA or epoxy, machines like a dream, much easier to carve accurately than wood, bonds nicely to autobody fillers, primes and finishes really well. If you are modelling anything where you want to simulate metal, composite or fiberglass components, you can achieve a mirror paint finish without too much work. It comes in a variety of densities, I find the 460 (48lb.) and 450 (41 lb.) the most useful density, as it combines easy work with nice crisp edges. it works nicely w/ hand tools lathe, mill, etc. Durability is similar to basswood, it is nice and dimensionally stable, but if you drop a tool on it, it will dent. The dust is somewhat nasty, but wearing a standard dust mask is fine. I use it for work, so I have a large chunk of 450 sitting in my shop. My Ren needs are set for now, but the potential offer of smaller pieces is pretty intriguing to me.
  16. hexnut
    Dude, do you sleep? You are cranking out loads of really nice little boats.
  17. hexnut
    So is the Balahoo! Nice work, man.
  18. hexnut
    No, no, take pictures and then pass out. (always better than passing out and having someone else take pictures... ) The deck looks beautiful.
  19. hexnut
    Congrats on settling in! When I first looked at the small picture with the glass tabletop, I thought: "Wow--a pool big enough for a whaleboat!"
  20. hexnut
    I'm really looking forward to seeing this built. There is some nice reference on this type of boat in Chapelle's American Small Sailing Craft (pp162-168), including scantling diagram and sail plan. At 1/24 scale, it will make a nice "up the coast" counterpoint to Model Expo's Pinky schooner and Midwest's Muscongus Bay sloop.
  21. hexnut
    All that I meant was with the spherical zebra map you don't see the direction change of the lines on the cube faces. Actually, I know exactly what you mean. My work stuff all has to go out the door on deadline, so for fun stuff, it can be really fulfilling noodling something out until I'm happy with it, screw deadlines...
  22. hexnut
    Looking nice Alan! It might be easier to use the spherical map for zebra view, as there are no borders to obscure tangency breaks. On a related note, I was just at a tradeshow talking to a Solidworks rep, asked him about custom or user-supplied maps in realview, as Rhino3d has a nice feature called "environment map" that shows a reflective surface, great for checking continuity and surface flow. I got the typical tech support:"Why would you want to do that?" Oh well... Another important thing to remember is what you are using the model for. If you need to make a perfect class A surface, then its worth the hours tweaking the matches and curves. If, however, the intent is to get to cutting out wood parts, just call it a day when the bumps and ripples are within a planking width, draw your frame stations to the outside of the planking and sand fair after assembly. To quote the WWII Soviet war plane designers: "Perfection is the enemy of good enough." I would also finish up the bow before worrying too much about getting C2 surface matches, the bow curvature will change the deceleration of the waterlines for your foremost stations.
  23. hexnut
    You are making one very sweet ride, Pete! Love how the planking turned out. Are you going to replicate the vertical planking in the cockpit? Edit: Actually, looking at the photo a bit closer, it looks like strakes or battens in the cockpit sides...
  24. hexnut
    Looking forward to watching this one develop. I just did a quick keyword web and image search for: "coquillier en fête" , there are some pretty cool paint jobs. I also like the flair of some of the bow registration numbers. This should make a great model, thanks for sharing!
  25. hexnut
    I'm really glad you found the box, now I get to watch it come together!

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