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Everything posted by Nirvana
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Well, I used my five minutes this day (turned out to be fifteen but still), and made the iron rings for the top blocks. Another step forward.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
- Finished
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Jerry, It would be a shame installing false keel, but maybe the only option. Or are you able to fill the hull with lead ballast enough to prevent any "maiden voyage accident".
- 97 replies
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- macedonian
- frigate
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This is like waiting for a good Jack-in-a-box, and I am not talking about food.
- 305 replies
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- deagostini
- vasa
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HKC, Is the whole unit 7mm (that including the eye at the end)? If so, you can get 6mm blocks from Syren and make the end eye yourself with wire. Anyway, this is probably the best way for you to get blocks, just my two cents. Good luck.
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Even though I don't have much of pictures to present at the moment, I have been working on the longboat. One thing that happened was the tip of the gaff got broken. It was an easy surgery.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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Greg, When I planked the AL 1851 America, should had been double planked I used nails, that I inserted half way to keep the plank in place while the glue was drying. Once dried, I cut them off at the plank area, a little tap on top of that and the nails were as good as invisable. Specially with paint job on top of it. To conclude my input, when I started building America, I didn't have any CA glue which helps tremendously when it comes to planking. And I didn't add on with a second layer. Carl said, "Will you start a build log?" I would suggest " You start a build log, if you running into problems - just highlight them and you will get helped. Oh, I forgot the most important part, A warm
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Maury, and you have evidence with pictures that it's there. Love those clamps too. Just like your Emma C this looks amazing.
- 525 replies
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- anchor hoy
- hoy
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Lots of progress today. Rudder is ready for painting, It was tricky to get the pintles and gudgeons right, but after some work I got it right. But getting the eyebolt done was a pain.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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The rudder is now shaped and so is the tiller. I predrilled the whole for the tiller and then used a flat pointed file to open up for the insert.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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I am cursing myself, because I have lost plan one along with a box with material for the longboat. Have no idea where it all is, so I am working from plan two and the instructions.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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Thank you Steve for the nice word. Yes, the oars turned out much better after another sanding and another two layers of white. The inboard is all freehand painted, I found it trickier to mask than paint directly. I looked at other long boats online of various styles and decided to go with a "three pair setup" six rowers. Going with eight made it look cramped. I also decided to exclude the windlass and I have a surprise up in my sleeve for the long boat. So, the oarlocks are in place and painted.
- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
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Karl, I like to welcome you to MSW, seems like you are off to a great start, detailing. You certainly know what you are doing. Looking good!
- 164 replies
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- Model Shipways
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Chris, First of all a Warm There is quite a few members of MSW living close by you. My son lives in Lynnwood, and a friend of mine in Woodenville. Take a look at this topic where the bearding line and rabbet is easily explained.
- 54 replies
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- glad tidings
- model shipways
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Hurray! Well, no saw dust but painting instead. And I am back in the right enviroment and in front of the longboat. I dediced to go with white blades on the oars. The oars look so smooth prior painting but obvious not. I think a light touch of 600 grit and another two coats and the fuzziness will be gone.
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- 18th century longboat
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Dave, That 3d print looks real good, once I will be building Bluenose I have to paint.
- 245 replies
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- bluenose
- model shipways
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Steve, Those freeze looks sharp. Great job done!
- 165 replies
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- finished
- model shipways
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Dave, In SketchUp, if you add on with more segments for the curvature, i.en from 16 to 24 you will get even a smoother 3d print. I have used SketchUp since the first release in 2001. I will never trade this program for any other CAD program, but I am not into 3d printing. Looking forward to seeing the outcome of the print.
- 245 replies
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- bluenose
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What is your preferred work height?
Nirvana replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Mike, What is the size of your work area? Not included in price. -
What is your preferred work height?
Nirvana replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
A website called Back Designs. Can't afford an adjustable which would had been the optimal, so I thinking having two stations with two different heights.
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