SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line

[Omega1234]

Nice progress, Nils!!!

[mtaylor]

Looking good, Nils.  I have my fingers crossed for you when you get to the propshaft area.

[Mirabell61]

Many thanks for your words Patrick and Mark,...

and all the "likes"

 

 

Patrick,

Oh, and I nearly forgot to insert the stb. and port bilgekeels, (got some aluninium flat material for the keels), before the roundings are planked. They are going to be "sinked" radial a bit into the Frames in midship area for secure hold

 

Mark,

I knew that that area will cause some headaches, I`ve seen one or two models of this ship on the web, and the builders managed to do that beautifuly, thats quite tempting and encouraging

 

 

Nils

[Jim Lad]

You've made a good start on the planking, Nils.  I'm sure you'll overcome the problems around the stern.

 

John

[Mirabell61]

John,

 

I thank you for your word, perhaps if I would have Talent in sculptering there would have been made some partial blocks carved out with sculpturers hammer an chissel, to be fitted in

 

Nils

[Omega1234]

 

 

Patrick,

Oh, and I nearly forgot to insert the stb. and port bilgekeels, (got some aluninium flat material for the keels), before the roundings are planked. They are going to be "sinked" radial a bit into the Frames in midship area for secure hold

 

 

Nils

 

Hi Nils

 

Good luck with the bilge keels. Incidentally, I'm pretty super excited. Why? Because I just realised that this is actually the first build log of yours that I'll be able to follow from the very start of construction. For instance, I joined MSW when you were at least half way through your Pegasus build and your earlier ships were all finished. So, this gives me a good way of watching and studying every step of construction from a master craftsman!

 

All the best

 

Patrick

Edited June 20, 2015 by Omega1234

[rwiederrich]

Just came across your build log...fantastic work and execution.  I'll be following along.  Great job.

 

Rob

[Mirabell61]

Thank you very much Patrick and Rob,

and the "likes"

 

 

Patrick,

for the bilge keels I cut off some of the Aluminium Strip  width, but when mounting and considering the planking thickness, I should have left the Strip in its original width, in order to get a good hold in the hull. So get a new Strip back to start Position and do it over...

 

 

Rob,

welcome on board, ist nice to have you viewing the log, I hope you  will further like the Progress, and thanks for your complement

 

 

Nils

Edited June 19, 2015 by Mirabell61

[NMBROOK]

She's coming on well Nils Just a suggetion,would it be easier to plank,then cut slots to insert the bilge keels into?This is common practice with working models,it allows you to properly fair the hull,then epoxy can be used inside the hull to secure the keels.Ideally they should protrude though the hull a few millimetres.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Mirabell61]

She's coming on well Nils Just a suggetion,would it be easier to plank,then cut slots to insert the bilge keels into?This is common practice with working models,it allows you to properly fair the hull,then epoxy can be used inside the hull to secure the keels.Ideally they should protrude though the hull a few millimetres.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

 

Thanks for your tip / suggestion Nigel,

it is much appreciated..

 

I also thought about the commen way, but on the other hand these bilge keels being appr. 40 cm long will be made from flat aluminium strip, so the won`t brake off, if by accident (when handling the hull so many times during planking and later on metal-plating) the hull knocks agaist anything 

I wanted a safe anchoring into the 8 concerned Hull frames and do the outside planking around then. Fortunately there will not be much fairing necessary, plse. refer to enclosed handscetch...

 

cheers 

 

Nils

 

[pete48]

Very nice work Nils, she's really taking shape

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[NMBROOK]

I didn't realise they run through a stringer as well Nils

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Mirabell61]

this will be the version for inserting the bilgekeels......

 

Nils

 

 

 

reinforcement to the 8 frames concerned, and slotting with a metal-saw blade

 

 

 

aluminium flat 2 x 15 mm, raw and bent over the high side, and slotted "bilge keel"

 

 

 

the bilge keels and the frames bear slots that interlock, (will either glue-in with epoxy or high viscosity CA

 

 

 

holding a scrap piece of plank against the bilge keel, to check the remaining standover outside the hull

 

 

 

my "nasty" area, but I have to "face it like a man"....

 

 

 

 

 

[Omega1234]

Hi Nils

That looks like a good solution for the installation of the bilge keels. Once installed, they're going to be rock solid!

With respect to your "problem area", I've got no doubt that you'll not only face it like 'a man', but you'll also conquer it convincingly!

Looking forward to your next update.

Cheers

Patrick

Edited February 11, 2016 by Omega1234

[Mirabell61]

Patrick,

 

thanks for the good words...

 

Nils

[archjofo]

Hello Nils,
This is an interesting model project.
Very fine work.

[Mirabell61]

Thanks Johann,

 

this will be my second coal-fired steam ship (in actual built and launched before 1900). I love These heritage steam ships

 

Nils

Edited July 2, 2015 by Mirabell61

[Martin W]

Hi Nils -- I've wondered where you've gone, and now I've found you!  It's quite a shift to go from the 18th-century Pegasus to this sleek ocean liner, the KWdG.  I have just read through your log and am as impressed with your work here as I have been on your other build.  I spent half an hour apiece just admiring those propellers!  I can't wait to see your engineering knowledge and your building skills come together (with a good splash of imagination as well) on this beauty.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[Mirabell61]

Hi Martin,

 

welcome to my new Project, its nice to have you on board, and many thanks for your Kind comments.

In the Moment I`ll have to find a break to complete the "HMS Pegasus" as there is not so much to do on that Lady anymore, and of course the glass case for it.

 

For the new ship I had so much drive, just because I wanted to see if it would turn out as it appeared in my mind, and because I had neighther  proven build plan, nor intructions for doing it . You are quite right with your comment related to that "splash of Imagination", but I love to find Solutions that make me come nearer to my Imagination.

 

Nils

[Mirabell61]

Build log part 8

 

 

starting with the geometry of the hinge mechanism of the underwater- rudder.....

 

 

Nils

 

 

 

first the obligatory handscetch....

 

 

 

the skeleton of the rudder bears the frame and will be sidewise cladded with brass sheet

 

 

 

the other part (flat post) goes to the sternpost. 

 

 

 

Here I pushed a 1 mm drill in as preliminary pivot-pin

 

 

 

 

The permanent fixed bilgekeels are mounted

 

 

 

four 13 mm planks are put on each side

 

 

 

will fit the raw, hinged rudder skeleton in place next, and then mount the tail cone filler pieces

 

[Omega1234]

Hi Nils

 

Those rudders, like your propellers, are going to masterful examples of metalwork and engineering.

 

Look forward to seeing how it all comes together.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[Mirabell61]

thank you very much Patrick...

 

Nils

[popeye the sailor]

planking looks really nice on there Nils.   the admiral one days asked me why I don't try to make my own planking.......I'm always getting basswood flat stock sheets.  I told her that it's because I don't have that kind of saw    {is that subtle enough of a hint}   too late for father's day though   

 

      I'm trying to get her over to the local hardware store  {Home Depot},  so I can show her.   going to be interesting how you'll do around the screw tunnels.  you could use flat stock fillers,  bent to shape.    I have no doubt that you will do well with them.

[Mirabell61]

well Popeye,

 

in that case you need some strong arguments, for saving money, and for making the planks in the dimensions you need (thickness, width, length, etc...     

added are some pics I shot under my carport, where I do the plank sawing now and then.

The electric circular hand saw has a blade with tungsten teethtips, and I mount everthing on my mobil work bench. I`m taking in account, that the automatic shut-off is disabled when I "pull the trigger" with this big clamp-peg I put on it, when it runs.

 

cheers,

 

Nils

 

 

the raw material for cutting the planks from are kept under my carport roof

 

 

 

the handsaw "converted" to a table saw (mounted from underneath)

 

 

 

The desired width of the planks is subject to the raw plank thickness chosen for cutting from

 

 

 

to activate the trigger I have to reach under the workbench

 

 

 

 

 

This clamp peg I put over the trigger in the saw`s handle (for safety reasons this ca`nt be recommended, utmost caution must be given during operation !!     ​ )

 

 

[flyer]

Hi Nils

 

Please be careful when using your high tech saw. I shudder when I see that arrangement.

But be confident - I actually used to know a carpenter who still had all his digits after years on the job (he only cut some tendons on one of the fingers).

 

Take care

Peter

[pete48]

Beautiful Job on those Rudders Nils, Shes taking shape at a very fast pace Nice work

 

Best Regards,

Pete

[dgbot]

Nils your workmanship brings out the green eyed monster and it is getting harder to keep it down.

David B

[Mirabell61]

Thank you very much - Peter - Pete -  David,

and all the "likes"...

 

 

Peter,

Thanks, I know, I`m not so happy with that Arrangement, therefore I take utmost concentration and care when operating it

 

 

Pete,

thanks for your remark, yes, I think the raw-hull will be done pretty fast. It will be faired and a nitro-Wood-bounder put on it, to get the Basic smooth surface for the metal plating Job later on

 

 

David,

I´m trying to get the hull the way it Looks like in those old dock photos

 

 

Nils

[Mirabell61]

Mounting rudder to the keel heel.....

 

Nils

 

 

 

the brass reinforcement is glued in place with Epoxy 2 component glue, the 4 brass anchors are additionaly put on

 

 

 

The long ends of the anchors will be clipped off inside the keel outcut

[LFrankCPA]

Nils,

May I offer a suggestion; instead of sanding the hull, why not try a spoke shave. It would save a lot of time and dust....

That is the way I fair all my planking.

Beautiful ship, thanks for sharing with us.

Larry