HMS Fly by Dfell - FINISHED - Amati / Victory Models - Scale 1:64

[SkipW]

Thanks for the input.

 

I think I am obsessing on getting the chamfers correct.  I already cut a 1 x 2mm rabett all along both sides of the keel and stem and stern post.

 

  I'm trying to get this "as close to right without going too far" before gluing anything together.  I will add the balsa blocks - if for no other reason than a bit more peace of mind.

 

If you guys are U.S. based - what did you use for paint?  I can't find that Humbrol (the recommended paint) is available in the U.S.  And all the other paints seem to be plastic model oriented - a lot of military type colors.

 

Within a few weeks I will likely start a blog - - not that I think I have a lot more to offer the group but because folks are so helpful with their suggestions.  I have read probably 20+ blogs on Pegasus and Fly - - priceless information.

[SkipW]

Hi Doug - 

 

Another question for you.  I really like the look of your deck planking using the thread.  I seem to get a lot of wicking with the markers and have trouble getting enough black on the edges of the planks for the pencil to work well producing a visible caulk seam (maybe I need a lot softer pencil).  You comment that you use 0.05mm thread - - that seems way too small, especially when you say it "might be over scale".  I have some 0.15 mm black thread, also some larger ones (up to 0.4mm - - wife is a quilter/sewer).  The 0.15 thread in nicely visible with the 0.5mm thick deck planking.  The question is, from a practical standpoint how do you control the thread, i.e. get it to stay where you want it while you apply the next plank?  

 

Thanks, Skip

[Dfell]

Hello Skip - I stick the planks down with a few drops of super glue and the thread is dipped into diluted PVA glue and pulled through a small sponge to get the excess off before laying up against plank. It obviously will be one piece of thread running the full length of the deck with small strips of thread for the end joints between the planks. These small bits will need to have dried before you can cut them so you can do do the next full length.

 

Doug

 

[SkipW]

Thanks, Doug. 

 

I made a few attempts yesterday (planking the main deck where it is only visible thru the hatch gratings).  I was coming to the conclusion that "glue was involved".  I really like the look of the black paper on Dubz's Syren, but when you look closely he was planking with pear wood planks that he cut and they had to be 2 to 3 mm thick so it looks like he glued the paper to one side of the plank before laying it.  Just not feasible with the 0.5mm Tanganyika.

 

Skip

[Dan Vadas]

The easiest way to do simulated caulking is with an Archival Ink pen, which unlike "normal" felt pens doesn't bleed into timber. They are available at art supply stores.

 

 

Danny

[SkipW]

Thanks Danny and Doug - This is great info.  I finished the (practice) planking using the black thread on the lower deck.  Not unhappy with the appearance (as little of it will be seen) but would not attempt this on the main deck.  Also a picture of a jig I made to color plank edges with a large Sharpie.  Solves the issue with getting ink on the faces of the planks - - but does not solve the bleeding problem.  I was going to settle for it but now I will certainly get an Archival Ink Pen - - - many thanks for this tip.  I tried a super soft pencil and while the edges of the plank were nice and black once laid down almost nothing showed.  However, I have my feeler gauge "at the ready".

Skip

[SkipW]

I've ordered a couple archival pens and will experiment with them.  I have extra soft lead pencils as well.  I won't start the main deck until I am very happy with a method.  I have Min-wax water based matte polyurethane varnish.  I used it on the planking on the lower deck and it did not seem to move the marker edged black.  The outer two strips had been edged with the Sharpie as a trial - but I didn't like it - went to the thread method.  I used those two strips where they are really not visible.  Thanks for the continuing advice.  As I recall you did not actually cut the deck planking strips but scored them with a 0.006mm feeler gauge at the joints.  That seems like a really practical way to get nicely aligned planking with uniform joints. I might adopt that method as well.

 

Thanks again for the benefit of all your experience.

[Martin W]

The best method I've found for blackening the edges is to use a No. 2 pencil.  If it gets wet from the glue, it won't bleed, but it can spread dust. That can usually be cleaned up with scraping & sanding prior to varnishing.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[SkipW]

Aha - so if I understand correctly - you scored the simulated plank butt joints after the planks were laid.  Hadn't thought of that.  I was pondering a jig to do it before laying them - but that requires very tight control of the strip fore-n-aft while you are laying it, as well as setting the gap from the previous plank.  More to think about.  

I am running a test with strips edge blackened with soft pencil, archival marker and then using better quality black thread - need to make a decision on the main deck planking.

[Dfell]

Now where was I? – Have now completed sheet 10. Had mistakenly headed a photo in my last update (now corrected) as Shifting backstay - not sure why as I had not done them as I had a problem understanding the plans.

The photo below shows plans with the Shifting backstay for the Fore mast which as I can see attaches to the Crowsnest area. Anway ignored this and attached as it is for the Main mast. Also was concerned how the lines would interfer with the Shrouds / Ratlines but it turned out not too bad.

 

 

 

Did not use the kit supplied Euphroe brass blocks but made some up from a bit of walnut planking – possible they are a bit big.

 

 

The Boomkins with a slight downward turn. Did in the end find on one of the plans the measurements for them.

 

 

Thank you for looking and the likes.

Regards

 

Doug

 

[SkipW]

Hi Doug -

This is gorgeous - great work.  I'm taking it all in and will be using it as source material as I move forward.  Right now I am deep into cannons - - probably another week to get them finished - then on to gunport strip.

  Skip

[SkipW]

I probably haven't progressed much since my last log post - - have spent quite a bit of time fussing with cannons - - learning a few things along the way - I'll post that when they are done.  Have not progressed on the hull past the initial planking of the center of the main deck.  Building up my courage to tackle the gun port strips - I surely have the feeling they are the biggest hurdle on the hull construction.  I did an initial shaping on my "forms" and have not gotten further.  Quite a few summer time tasks and diversions!

[Dfell]

Hello - the progress so far is some yards are up and in position.

Not exactly parallel as yet but hopefully will be once fully rigged.

 

 

Parral set up - seems slightly on the big size. For the top yards will use some left over from my Supply build which are smaller.

 

 

 

 

 

The Crossjack Tie on the mizzen mast was done slightly different from instructions. Took the centre block off and tried to copy what was illustrated in my book. the Thimbles were made from copper tubing.

 

 

 

 

 

An overall picture.

 

 

Thank you for looking and the ' Likes'

 

Doug

 

 

 

[Dfell]

Hello - further steps forward.

Top yards attached using smaller Parral bits from my Supply build.

 

 

Netting in place. Not sure about the style of the netting.

 

Hoist for Ship's boat. Annoyed that I was not able to keep the Stay from sagging.

 

Boom and Gaff are now in place. The Gaff lift line has been tied off to a belaying pin to the side on deck and not as plans to the belaying set up at base of mast.

Another overall view

 

Thank you for looking and the 'Likes' - much appreciated.

 

Regards

 

Doug

[Busby]

On 11/16/2016 at 12:56 AM, probablynot said:

Is this what I'm going to have to do if my beloved Admiral buys me the HMS Fly kit for Christmas?

I'm intimidated!

Superb work! Extremely neat painting to the waterline. And I love what you're doing with the stern lights.

Looking mighty fine, just finished second planking on mine. Hope she turns out half as good as yours

[Dfell]

Hello - and thank you for the likes in the previous posting and thank you Busby for your nice comments and I wish you well with your build.

 

Had a go to slightly improve the dip in the Main Stay.

 

 

The lantern (Caldercraft) and rudder chain.

 

 

Bobstays and Bowsprit Shrouds done and so that is Sheet 11 all done. My heart sank once I studied Sheet 12 as there was so much more rigging and it was already getting hard not to lean on existing lines without a fair chance of some damage.

 

 

Start of Sheet 12 with a Tack Toggle. Not sure if you can see it clearly in picture and not sure what the Tack Toggle does. It looks like a quick release system perhaps.

Lines to the rail have all gone through a deck ring before being tied off to the rail. Have added more eyelets than were originally asked for.

 

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Regards

 

Doug

Edited November 20, 2018 by Dfell

[Dfell]

Thanks SpyGlass for the explanation.

Had to make a correction to my last post - the lantern was a Caldercraft item.

 

Doug

[Dfell]

Hi - can anyone please help. Not clear as to how the lines are attached to blocks on the yards?

Are they tied to the blocks or go through the block with a knot tied to stop them passing back through?

The lines I am referring to have the numbers 48 and 49.

 

Thank you.

 

Doug

[Blue Ensign]

Those are the Bunt line blocks Doug.

On a 'bare stick' model a simple knot will suffice to secure the bunt line before it goes thro' the lead blocks beneath the tops and down to belay.

Cheers,

B.E.

[Dfell]

Many thanks Blue Ensign. 

Appreciate the reply.

Regards

Doug

[Kevin Kenny]

I was check some of my models. One has a knot preventing the line from going through the block another goes through the block and is tied to the mast

[Kevin Kenny]

[Dfell]

Thanks Kevin Kenny - good illustrations. Think I will do a knot.

Thank you

 

Doug

[Dfell]

Hello - things are getting rather harder to do. Having to move slowly with concentrated effort with the rigging and it is harder to tie lines off.

Some lines not tied off as they will have to be loosened so as to do the rest of the rigging lines.

Some photos.

 

 

 

 

 

The anchor cables in place. As I did not think far enough ahead and prepare the hatch cover to take the cables I have done the same as in my HM Brig Supply build and put the cables through the deck.

 

 

Thank you for looking in.

 

Regards

 

Doug

Edited January 11, 2019 by Dfell

[SkipW]

Lookin' great!

[Blue Ensign]

Looking good Doug, good idea not to belay those sheet and tack lines too soon.

One thing I would mention the sheets and tacks should run outside of all the standing rigging. If you visualise when working, the sheets and tacks attach to the outer lower corners of the sails, well outboard of the confines of the ship. The sheets would not be able to work if they ran inside of the backstays.

 

B.E.

[Martin W]

That's a really nice looking Fly, Doug.  Terrific work.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[Dfell]

Hello Blue Ensign  - okay I will run the sheets and tacks on the outside. Did that at first but thought it wrong as they rubbed up against the standing rigging.

 

SkipW - thanks for looking and your comments. Hope your Pegasus is going well.

 

And thank you Martin for comments.

 

Regards

 

Doug

Edited January 11, 2019 by Dfell

[Blue Ensign]

You're right Doug, they do look neater running the direct route, mine rest against the Backstays but I suppose the ship is not usually in motion with bare sticks, and any friction is minimal.

 

B.E.

[Landlubber Mike]

Looks great Doug.  Should be the box cover pictures!