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Dfell

HMS Fly by Dfell - FINISHED - Amati / Victory Models - Scale 1:64

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Not really apparent on the photo's Doug :)

 A tip for the future, I don't tend to tie off the deadeye lanyards too soon in the build so that I can come back and tweak the shroud tension after I've completed the standing rigging but before I fit the ratlines.

 

If it really is a bother you could re-do the deadeye lanyards or one cheat you can try for slack shrouds is to attach a line around the upper end beneath the tops, and bowse them in a little; but as you have fitted the futtocks this may slacken them off, requiring them to be re-done.

 

Sometimes these things loom larger in the eye of the builder than the observer. :)

 

B.E.

 

 

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Wow! that's some impressive progress, Doug.  I'm envious that you're on the rigging now -- I'm stalled at the tangle of bits and pieces in the head structure.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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Hello -  Thank you for the generous comments and 'likes'. Martin - just get on with it :)

Sheet 10 nearly done with the Crowsfeet to do. So that is all the Stays and Preventer Stays.

 

_DSC0017.JPG.e759613a3f02722c052c5da97793c63c.JPG

Have this book which has been a great help as the plans at times are hard to see what's what.

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Clear illustrations.

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Mouses shaped from bits of dowel turned on a Proxxon lathe.

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Fore Topmast Stay and Preventer Stay secured. Ends will be sorted with a rope coil later.

_DSC0005.thumb.JPG.18db494dbf8e0853679f88e6359f906d.JPG

 

Overall pictures.

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_DSC0002.thumb.JPG.1d71ea215e84bc0704c729e98980a315.JPG

Thanks for looking.

 

Regards

 

Doug

 

Edited by Dfell

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Hi Doug -  I'm just starting a Pegasus and was looking at your Fly blog - - were the balsa block you used in the bow and stern section part of the kit or something you added?  Looks like a great idea for more glue area and smooth curvature.

 

SkipW

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Hello SkipW - the balsa is not supplied as part of the build - it seems a things that a lot of builders on this site do as it does help with the tricky extreme curved sections.

Good luck with your build - you will have have plenty of good examples for guide in your build especially Blue Ensign  (I expect you have seen his Pegasus which probably inspired you to have a go)

Regards

 

Doug

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Balsa can help  - but I didnt need it on my Fly /Pegasus builds - MAIN thing is to get the right chamfers on the Bulkheads  - much more than you think !! And a rabbet on the stem is really good too.

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Thanks for the input.

 

I think I am obsessing on getting the chamfers correct.  I already cut a 1 x 2mm rabett all along both sides of the keel and stem and stern post.

 

  I'm trying to get this "as close to right without going too far" before gluing anything together.  I will add the balsa blocks - if for no other reason than a bit more peace of mind.

 

If you guys are U.S. based - what did you use for paint?  I can't find that Humbrol (the recommended paint) is available in the U.S.  And all the other paints seem to be plastic model oriented - a lot of military type colors.

 

Within a few weeks I will likely start a blog - - not that I think I have a lot more to offer the group but because folks are so helpful with their suggestions.  I have read probably 20+ blogs on Pegasus and Fly - - priceless information.

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Hi Doug - 

 

Another question for you.  I really like the look of your deck planking using the thread.  I seem to get a lot of wicking with the markers and have trouble getting enough black on the edges of the planks for the pencil to work well producing a visible caulk seam (maybe I need a lot softer pencil).  You comment that you use 0.05mm thread - - that seems way too small, especially when you say it "might be over scale".  I have some 0.15 mm black thread, also some larger ones (up to 0.4mm - - wife is a quilter/sewer).  The 0.15 thread in nicely visible with the 0.5mm thick deck planking.  The question is, from a practical standpoint how do you control the thread, i.e. get it to stay where you want it while you apply the next plank?  

 

Thanks, Skip

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Hello Skip - I stick the planks down with a few drops of super glue and the thread is dipped into diluted PVA glue and pulled through a small sponge to get the excess off before laying up against plank. It obviously will be one piece of thread running the full length of the deck with small strips of thread for the end joints between the planks. These small bits will need to have dried before you can cut them so you can do do the next full length.

 

Doug

 

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Thanks, Doug. 

 

I made a few attempts yesterday (planking the main deck where it is only visible thru the hatch gratings).  I was coming to the conclusion that "glue was involved".  I really like the look of the black paper on Dubz's Syren, but when you look closely he was planking with pear wood planks that he cut and they had to be 2 to 3 mm thick so it looks like he glued the paper to one side of the plank before laying it.  Just not feasible with the 0.5mm Tanganyika.

 

Skip

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AHHHH the tanganyika !!!

First the kit supplied stuff is fine for use in straight strips.  But it is obviously tooo narrow for any fancy curves, hooking spiling etc !.

(But dont bother buying wider stuff at 0.5 or even 1mm - I tried several times - Tanganyika is a pain except in straight lengths).

Paper or thread -  i have had never had much luck with - I think though that is because ( as you suggest) you need to work with thicker stock.

The good old pencil is tried and tested and has the great advantage of not bleeding. A little "jig" to hold the strips while you rrun a pencil along helps.

Captains artistic choice as to one or both edges penciled - also choice of pencil "hardness"  disctates the colour and ease of application a bit I use a very soft 3B

But I prefer  my own method - using thin feeler gauge shims to space the planks and letting the matt varnish seep into the spaces

( see logs https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/420-hms-pegasus-by-simonthepieman-victory-models-164-started-by-spyglass/&do=findComment&comment=8119)

 

Edited by SpyGlass

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Thanks Danny and Doug - This is great info.  I finished the (practice) planking using the black thread on the lower deck.  Not unhappy with the appearance (as little of it will be seen) but would not attempt this on the main deck.  Also a picture of a jig I made to color plank edges with a large Sharpie.  Solves the issue with getting ink on the faces of the planks - - but does not solve the bleeding problem.  I was going to settle for it but now I will certainly get an Archival Ink Pen - - - many thanks for this tip.  I tried a super soft pencil and while the edges of the plank were nice and black once laid down almost nothing showed.  However, I have my feeler gauge "at the ready".

Skip

Sharpie Jig for Edge Coloring.JPG

Lower Deck Planking Forward.JPG

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I tried  every pen i could find including the Archival one suggested by Danny and they all bled - perhaps its the matt varnish I use ?

 

Just a clarification with the "feeler gauge method - I still edge the planks with a pencil just to get some contrast into the gaps as a starter.

The gauges i use are just the standard ones from any auto shop - you get a good choice of widths all in one set, they are so thin you can cut them with scissors if you wish and make "spacers"

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I've ordered a couple archival pens and will experiment with them.  I have extra soft lead pencils as well.  I won't start the main deck until I am very happy with a method.  I have Min-wax water based matte polyurethane varnish.  I used it on the planking on the lower deck and it did not seem to move the marker edged black.  The outer two strips had been edged with the Sharpie as a trial - but I didn't like it - went to the thread method.  I used those two strips where they are really not visible.  Thanks for the continuing advice.  As I recall you did not actually cut the deck planking strips but scored them with a 0.006mm feeler gauge at the joints.  That seems like a really practical way to get nicely aligned planking with uniform joints. I might adopt that method as well.

 

Thanks again for the benefit of all your experience.

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The best method I've found for blackening the edges is to use a No. 2 pencil.  If it gets wet from the glue, it won't bleed, but it can spread dust. That can usually be cleaned up with scraping & sanding prior to varnishing.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

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yes - I cheat where other have skill !! -  i devised a special tool with a blade of strip width using a couple of bits of feeler to sit in the strip gaps eiterh side to stop the score extending off the plank

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Aha - so if I understand correctly - you scored the simulated plank butt joints after the planks were laid.  Hadn't thought of that.  I was pondering a jig to do it before laying them - but that requires very tight control of the strip fore-n-aft while you are laying it, as well as setting the gap from the previous plank.  More to think about.  

I am running a test with strips edge blackened with soft pencil, archival marker and then using better quality black thread - need to make a decision on the main deck planking.

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I tried several methods - mainly I premeasure and pre score the strips before laying though it makes the strips rather awkward to handle and prone to separate.  Need to have the decks premarked to align the joints as you say.

Better method I think is to score each one as laying so you only need to protect one adjacent plank AND you can keep it spaced a bit while scoring and then push it against the shim sitting against the previous strip. I used this for my last Fly and Pegasus builds.

 

some pics  - just found my trenail and plank end jigs and "the tool"IMG_1190.thumb.JPG.0d17800e1fb744d04fe47ac44d5934a7.JPG5b4a029153e32_loadedgegauge.jpg.73d898ef5cf2cb394b3ef5b226e419aa.jpg5b4a02189047d_blutacclean.jpg.841c3205c9107c40310d16871db16d36.jpg

I didnt mention that I " edge loaded" the the shim before spacing -

and a GOOD TIP - Blue Tack cleans up pencil dust off the strips very well.

Finally a couple of pics of work in progress on an older Fly build

5b4a02852df6f_partplank.jpg.dacbe0df0f5cdc2c7832aca77604478f.jpg

5b4a024d35fb0_firstvarnish.jpg.3ba3031833271e641e763a2e8dd3eea7.jpg

after first matt varnish

Edited by SpyGlass

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Oh just a point- my planking shown above is WRONG!!  !

The hatches and so forth are planned and fitted to the structure .

SO you rarely have any joints between structures  like the hatches etc !!  Single full length planking would be between the hatches where I am showimg joints !!

 

AND my old problem - deck treenails DONT SHOW  -normally they are plugged and virtually invisible - look at photos of say Victory's deck" 

BUT I do them usually  simply because they look so nice !!!

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Now where was I? – Have now completed sheet 10. Had mistakenly headed a photo in my last update (now corrected) as Shifting backstay - not sure why as I had not done them as I had a problem understanding the plans.

The photo below shows plans with the Shifting backstay for the Fore mast which as I can see attaches to the Crowsnest area. Anway ignored this and attached as it is for the Main mast. Also was concerned how the lines would interfer with the Shrouds / Ratlines but it turned out not too bad.

 

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Did not use the kit supplied Euphroe brass blocks but made some up from a bit of walnut planking – possible they are a bit big.

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The Boomkins with a slight downward turn. Did in the end find on one of the plans the measurements for them.

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_DSC0007.thumb.JPG.74e836c01eb05f5d412eed00130c8dfa.JPG

 

Thank you for looking and the likes.

Regards

 

Doug

 

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Hi Doug -

This is gorgeous - great work.  I'm taking it all in and will be using it as source material as I move forward.  Right now I am deep into cannons - - probably another week to get them finished - then on to gunport strip.

  Skip

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I probably haven't progressed much since my last log post - - have spent quite a bit of time fussing with cannons - - learning a few things along the way - I'll post that when they are done.  Have not progressed on the hull past the initial planking of the center of the main deck.  Building up my courage to tackle the gun port strips - I surely have the feeling they are the biggest hurdle on the hull construction.  I did an initial shaping on my "forms" and have not gotten further.  Quite a few summer time tasks and diversions!

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Hello - the progress so far is some yards are up and in position.

Not exactly parallel as yet but hopefully will be once fully rigged.

 

1183772266_HMSFly99.JPG.6d830f5b70c28dc4c4b012be833b1f9a.JPG

 

Parral set up - seems slightly on the big size. For the top yards will use some left over from my Supply build which are smaller.

 

853780851_HMSFly100.JPG.165b738eaefcb26d51d0e44d46c01386.JPG

 

 

 

691140206_HMSFly103.thumb.jpg.d18b90b7a8c18d03c467ca3eacaa2684.jpg

 

The Crossjack Tie on the mizzen mast was done slightly different from instructions. Took the centre block off and tried to copy what was illustrated in my book. the Thimbles were made from copper tubing.

 

1810608295_HMSFly102.thumb.jpg.b6c3b25e4b93ba20bc9deda8dffbbb01.jpg

 

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1294752673_HMSFly101.thumb.jpg.9f6a3aa4b21ad14d8d568d1809f7dfc6.jpg

 

 

An overall picture.

 

795821902_HMSFly104.thumb.jpg.a4fbb8373c93f162bcbe86ec3f99f69d.jpg

 

Thank you for looking and the ' Likes'

 

Doug

 

 

 

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Hello - further steps forward.

Top yards attached using smaller Parral bits from my Supply build.

 

1738522535_HMSFly105.jpg.6c98058f85ee805518993452cba563ec.jpg

922855269_HMSFly111.jpg.eda79340cf34a3665a547dd3494c5f79.jpg

 

Netting in place. Not sure about the style of the netting.

199561792_HMSFly106.thumb.jpg.7b12d2a82ead16171585bcdcf17bc839.jpg

 

Hoist for Ship's boat. Annoyed that I was not able to keep the Stay from sagging.

841880884_HMSFly108.jpg.84561c10635389d3d4a7a43b18878ab6.jpg

 

Boom and Gaff are now in place. The Gaff lift line has been tied off to a belaying pin to the side on deck and not as plans to the belaying set up at base of mast.

804604627_HMSFly107.thumb.jpg.c9b90f786e5dd70bdf4965c4dc6a6f1b.jpg

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Another overall view

140989371__HMSFly110.jpg.399670b9137542ca88a15c76a4a17d87.jpg

 

Thank you for looking and the 'Likes' - much appreciated.

 

Regards

 

Doug

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On 11/16/2016 at 12:56 AM, probablynot said:

Is this what I'm going to have to do if my beloved Admiral buys me the HMS Fly kit for Christmas?

I'm intimidated!

Superb work! Extremely neat painting to the waterline. And I love what you're doing with the stern lights.

Looking mighty fine, just finished second planking on mine. Hope she turns out half as good as yours

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