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Posted (edited)

I confess I was originally not a fan of the light coloured chocks... but as the ship grows I have changed my mind.  I think the developing pattern has triggered my CDO switch ON

Edited by AON

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Posted

Thanks, Alan.  I have to agree with you on the light colored chocks, they do grow on you.  That being said, I dont recommend them since there is always the chance that they will show through the finished hull, as they do in a few spots after fairing.  This was during my first few frames where the bevel is significant.  I will need to strategically place some planking over them when the time comes.  I do like painting with wood...

 

Best, G

Posted

Lovely work, Gary. I started with some lighter colored chocks in Speedwell but after a couple years the wood tones are almost identical. Understand completely the potential issues with chocks in frames with extreme bevels.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi All!

 

304 hours into the journey and feeling good!

 

The photo below is not a pile of sticks to be played with like one of my powder monkey's thought.  They are the remaining 256 framing pieces awaiting shipment to the shipyard.  Prior to yard assembly, they will go through a quality check, drum sanding (my grizzly spindle sander arrives tomorrow), filing of the chock joints, and squaring of the ends.  I will remake any framing piece that does not pass muster. I will then organize them in zip lock backs and place them in a plastic file bin, along with thier template, pattern, and chocks while they wait for assembly. There will be another quality check after assembly, prior to installation.

 

My back of the envelope calculation is that there are about 1000 frame pieces, 550 chocks, and 50 keel/stem/stern assembly pieces at this point in the build.  I estimate that I will have a roughed in hull at 400 hours.  Not a bad way to spend 400 hours, if you ask me.

 

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I hope to see another build of this ship on the forum in the near future.  It has been an amazing journey thus far.  I have seen my knowledge of ship design expand exponentially, my scroll saw skills are now dialed in and my enthusiasm is as strong as ever.  While personal results may varry, if you are looking to up your game, this is a ship to consider!

Best, G

Posted

Wow, that pile of frame pieces really put this project in perspective. Someday I hope to tackle something like this. You are going a fantastic job.

Posted

Wow,  thank you for such great replies!  This is so very rewarding to me personally.  More to come next week! 

 

Tom- I see you are from North Reading, MA - I used to windsurf on Lake Quannapowitt back in the mid 80's while at college in Boston.  Its a beautiful town and I have wonderful memories of my time there.  G

Posted

316 Hours into the voyage.

 

Smooth sailing with the purchase of my new Grizzly Spindle Sander.  Its simply wonderful.  The more fairing done at the bench, the less that needs to be done in the shipyard.  Of course, you had better be on track with the patterns or undersizing timbers is a real reality.

 

Laid out on the Mustang are the remaining frames.  These have all been accounted for and tucked away until needed. 

 

The last photo shows the sizing of each frame.  You will note the different sided thickness of each frame as shown by the notching. 

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Posted

I am having trouble uploading today, so this weeks work will come in several installments...  I am also having difficulty doing a narrative under each photo,

 

I am now all the way thru frame 4 as shown in the first photo.  The Keelson Knee is just shown fitted in place for now. 

 

The third photo highlights frames 4 and 5.  Note the notching of the chock on frame 4 that still needs to take place. I forgot to do this at the bench...

 

The top timber of frame 5 has a significant slant.  While this may look like an error, its actually to spec.  The slant allows room for a sweep port to be inserted.  There are many intentional irregularities with this ship that are historically accurate.  This is significant departure for me since I have built stylized models in the past that appeal to symmetry.  I now prefer the historically accurate models.  Interesting how our tastes and opinions on things evolve over time...

 

The last photo should actually be the first photo.  the forward frames are just sitting in place, awaiting spacers, final fitting and glue up.

 

The assembly line style of building the frames is certainly not for everyone, but it has greatly improved my efficiency and quality. 

 

You will also note the cross spauls that have been reinstalled.  This is a must in order to keep the shape.

 

As mentioned, I am bringing this ship to NRG in October (As well as my USB Eagle, also a scratch build in progress).  My goal with Naiad is to have the framing completed and faired, along with ribands, keelson, and chock bolts inserted. I estimate that will take me about 110 hours.

 

Best, G

 

 

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Posted

Gary,

 

Nice work on the frames... She's coming together very well.

 

As for the pictures.. after hitting "Attach", put the cursor where you want a photo and hit "Add to post" on the little thumbnail above "choose file".  Then you can type below it.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Hi All,

 

327 hours into the Naiad build. I averaged 1.9 hours per day at 22 days in July, slightly lower than previous months, but I had a list of chores from the Admiral that had to get done first.  Although, I did put a large window in my garage for the natural light when building. 

 

Things are sailing along smoothly as I approach the last twenty or so frames.  All at a time when I am just getting the hang of making these things...  The templates are matching up well.

 

Best, G

 

 

 

 

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Posted

347 hours into the journey with just 13 frames to go.  While I have enjoyed the framing portion of this build, I am looking forward to a change of pace.  Shown here are how things look to this point.  Note the template continues to be on target.  One challenge that I have continuously had with this build is the sided dimensions of the frames.  The glue joints over time have added to this overall dimension. While only a few hundredths per frame, that can really add up when you do 90 of them.  On my final 9 frames, I need to claim back 1/8th of an inch.  This may not sound like much, but its critical to keep everything within spec.  Otherwise, the gun ports and other openings will be off. 

 

After the final timbers are placed, I will be adding a few more cross spallings before removing the ship from the board.  I will then spend considerable time fairing the overall hull.  I will then sit on the front porch where it is shaded, but bright and go over each frame - futtock by futtock, chock by chock to get them smooth and well aligned. After that, I will place the chock bolts, etc. 

 

Best, G

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Looks great, Gary.  I have to hand it to you and everyone else who has the stamina to cut out all the pieces ( and label them and keep them organized), then go on to assembly.  Its all to much of one thing at a time for me.  I cut out the parts for one frame, assemble it, erect the frame then go on to the next, hence no labels on the Naiad frame parts.  My apologies.  

 

Ed

Edited by EdT
Posted

Thank you, All.  Its really neat to be communicating with people from all over the globe in just seconds!

 

Hi Ed,  I recall from your book that you prefer the one frame at a time method to ensure quality.  For me, I found that the assembly line process is faster and produces better results.  That being said, it does get monotonous .  I started building 4-6 frames at a time.  That seems to be my threshold for the assembly line.  Although, I did stand at the jig saw for many an hour cutting all those futtocks.  

 

Best, G

Posted

367 Hours into the voyage...

I am so close to nearing the completion of the framing, that I found myself rushing!  I really had to step back and pace myself.  I had hoped to finish the framing last night, but decided to just take it easy, fine tune and be patient.  Patience has never been a strong point for me.

 

I have just four frames to go.  They are built, all I need to do is fine tune them and install.  You will note the use of wood blocks and window/door shims.  These are used to tightly fay the floors together.  I should have employed their use sooner, as outlined in Ed's book.

 

Overall, I am still exceedingly happy with the results.  Its interesting to look at the my earlier framing and observe how heavy handed I was with a file.  Building 161 frames over seven months gives you the opportunity to refine your touch.

 

The first photo shows the rough framing wetted.  I am looking forward to what it will look like finished  (years from now...).

 

I estimate that this build will take anywhere from 1500-2000 hours to complete.  Since my primary interest in ship building is structural, I will do very minimal planking.

 

Please excuse the out of order photos. In addition, I am no longer able to add narratives below each photo.  I think it has something to do with my computer. 

 

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Posted

Lovely work, Gary. Closing in the hull is definitely a memorable milestone. With regards to fillers between the floor timbers, I've noted several separations on my Speedwell fully framed model. Obviously, filler frames made sense on the real ships to provide a solid wall of timber while immersed in water. But on a model, with expansion and contraction of wood due to changes in moisture and temperature, I suspect you'll have similar problems from time to time. Not a major issue, however, as this area is not readily visual once the deck beams, carlings, etc. are in place. Plus, once you get a few longitudinals in place (such as limber strakes) this occurs less. My workshop is in my basement which has a constant temperature and humidity. Most of my problems arose when I took the hull outside to fair or into a different room to photograph. If I were to build another fully framed model I would not remover her from the workshop until fully faired with deck clamps in place.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted

Hi Greg,  This is good advice.  Although, I am in Southern California where the humidity is relatively low and constant.  Now that I said that, look out!  On another note, I was rereading and reviewing your work on Pegasus in TFFM Vol III last night. Beautifully done.  G

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