Bluenose by hamilton - 1:64 p.o.b. - from MS plans

[GGibson]

Looks really good, hamilton!  And I love the hinges!  I am nowhere near this point in my build, but have "looked ahead" on your build here and on others, and have wondered if one could put a small piece of plastic bag or Saran wrap on top of the black-painted opening to simulate glass.

 

Great progress!

[hamilton]

Thanks a lot Greg! And thanks even more for pushing this log onto page 7! 

 

I think using soft plastic would not work - but you could either grab some acetate transparencies from your local office supply store or use any firmer but thin transparent plastic you have lying around to simulate this. I have used transparencies in the past to simulate glass on ship models, though I also made the mistake of fixing them with crazy glue, which produces a weird crystalising effect on them....I'm not sure what adhesive others would recommend to achieve this effect, but maybe there is some info elsewhere on the forum on how to do this.....

 

Thanks again for stopping by!

hamilton

[FlyingFish]

Another approach might be to use thin UV resin to cover the flat area. The surface would need to be horizontal to avoid pooling at one edge. I've used this on instrument panel faces before. Seal with a thin clear nail varnish as it can remain slightly tacky otherwise.

[aliluke]

It looks amazing Hamilton and I continue to be astonished by your bravery as taking this on as a scratch build.

 

As for glues that craze acetate. I used Micro Clear Glaze on my AVS and it ended up looking like clear glue = dreadful. I used a very fine acetate sheet on Fly and then tested the glues. CA is out - it fogs the sheet. Best test was simple PVA but applied in very little quantities. Test first. The stern windows and quarter badges on Fly do look 'glazed' but you'd never know on my skylight - so you have wonder what the point was? I guess that's the modelers dilemma - no one sees this stuff except for us here...

 

A

Edited April 2, 2023 by aliluke

[hamilton]

Thanks Andy - that is an approach I have never heard of before - something to consider experimenting with on Bellona when I come back to that build later in the spring.

 

And thanks Alistair - that's high praise coming from you - you were there almost at the very beginning of my modelling "career" way back in our AVS days, so you've got a lot of context! Not to wax too nostalgic, but that has been one of the effects of the pandemic on me it seems.....

hamilton

[hamilton]

A quick update featuring the main mast fife rail. When I was looking at this on the plans, I figured I could get it done in a few hours - another case of being totally wrong! It took about 10 hours total over three sessions to finish. I cut the pinrack from 1/16" basswood sheet and used a couple of wooden stanchions left over from the Artesania Latina San Francisco which turned out to be perfectly to scale and matched the general shape as well. 1/8" square stock was used for the bitts, and I used two edge-glued 1/8 x 1/16" strips, filed out to accommodate the bitts and the boom crutch, with a small hole drilled for a belaying pin on the forward edge. These were glued up around the posts. Once this was done, I noticed that the two posts were a little out of alignment, so I glued them at the bottom to some 1/32 and 1/8" strip wood to bring them even and to correct height.

 

I repurposed a couple of knees from another kit for the fife rail support knees, as well - these were larger than scale, but were pretty easily trimmed down to size for the bluenose. They are not to scale thickness - being 1/16" when they should be 3/32"....but I glued them close to the outboard edges, so only the very keenest and most attentive eyes will see - and of course all of you who I just told about it!! I also made the mast coat out of 1/8" basswood, drilled and filed out to 5/16" for the mast. The belaying pins were blackened (looking a little hairy) to complete the little project.

 

I am starting to get really concerned about all the metal work that's coming up with the masting and forward deck details. I have very limited experience working with metal and given that my blackening technique also produces pretty fuzzy results....I will have to do a bit of practice with the soldering gun and see if I can't wrap my head around it....Definitely going to fudge as much with wood as I can get away with, but at a certain point I feel like it's hard to model without picking up some metal working chops.....

 

Until then, though, it'll be more deck superstructures. Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

hamilton

[hamilton]

Another quick update while the ham is in the oven. Working still n deck superstructures and features, specifically, the fore boom sheet buffer, the water pumps, the dory frames and the fore deck skylight. All were pretty straightforward, though you'll see in the photos that I initially mispositioned the water pumps - the later photos show them in their proper spot aft of the fife rail.

 

I'll also admit that, because I was not feeling up to the challenge of making the pumps from scratch, I repurposed a couple of pumps that I had in a little drawer of unused parts from other kits...they are not exactly to scale (on the small side), and they are likely somewhat anachronistic in terms of design, but I don't think they look too awful. Here are the photos - enjoy and happy modelling.

hamilton

 

[Mic_Nao]

Very nice work.

[hamilton]

Thanks Mic - not nearly as nice as your start on L'Egyptienne! 

hamilton

[hamilton]

A couple of additions to the Bluenose to report - working on the bowsprit and deck assembly for the samson post & bowsprit bitts. Nothing particularly tricky about these. For the samson post mortice, I drilled through the 3/16" square stock I was using, squared off the hole using needle files and then plugged up the back of it with a 1/8" square bit of basswood. Filed down and painted over it blends in perfectly. 

 

The alignment was a bit fiddly, but once the samson post was positioned, things went together more or less easily. Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

hamilton

[hamilton]

Continuing with the foredeck....this update covers the forward companionway and engine box. Oh - and I added some ringbolts to the deck....

 

I ended up making the companionway twice - I probably should have made it a third time, but my patience ran out!! I approached this the same way I did with the skylight. I glued up a couple of 1/16 x 1/4" strips for the sides and used the same material for the panels. I glued a couple of 1/16" square strips on the inside of the sides, set 1/16" back from the aft edge to act as a stop for the panels. 

 

The engine box I built up out of 6 pieces of 1/4" x 3/16" basswood (for the larger section) and a tetris style assembly of random wood strips to get the proper dimensions. Once these were filled, sanded and finished, I marked out the two openings on the smaller section, drilled holes to eventually receive the rod for the winch (starboard side) and for the anchor chain (forward). The two sections were glued together, the seam filled and the entire thing painted and lidded. I used, once again, 1/16" pinstripe tape to simulate the hinges. The assembly is not glued to the deck yet, since I want to first construct the jumbo jibboom rest, winch and windlass to make sure all these parts are situated correctly relative to one another....I only have a couple of small jobs to do before moving on to the windlass, winch, etc., which is going to be a challenge for me....I've been spending a bit of time over the last couple of weeks wrapping my head around these items and I have a couple of possible approaches in mind - but that is for the future!

 

Until then - enjoy the photos and happy modelling

hamilton

 

[hamilton]

Yesterday I had a go at the catheads, which were one of those elements that I was kind of puzzling over. In the end, I decided that my metal working skills and the resources at my current disposal for achieving good results were pretty limited, so I took another route.

 

I used 3/32" square basswood stock for the the "head" and 3/64" brass rod for the shaft. I marked off the basswood to the length of the out portion of the cathead and filed out a notch in the end, first making a gentle cut along the centre of one end of the strip and then using first a triangular and then a round needle file to widen out the end to simulate the sheave. I then drilled a hole behind that and widened/filed it out with files to complete the sheave. I then drilled small holes to receive eyebolts in the bottom and side.

 

Only after that did I cut off the portion of the basswood stock, drill a hole in the square end of it and attach a length of brass rod for the cathead "shaft". I then whittled and sanded down the end of the wooden "head" portion to blend it in with the brass, painting the whole assembly black. They're definitely out of scale (the head portion anyway) but I'm hoping that they won't look so bad once all the other elements are built up around them.....

 

I did have to make some 1/16" thick cap rail extensions, since I forgot to mark out those when I was making the caprails a while back...this was very straightforward. Here are the photos - enjoy and happy modelling

hamilton

 

[hamilton]

Hello there:

 

Over the last couple of evenings I've managed to complete another couple of small things on Bluenose - the chain box and the rudder. The chain box is not featured on the deck plans, but included in a lower corner of a plan sheet that documents the deck fixtures, dorys and mast/spar construction - it could easily be overlooked.

 

What isn't clear is if there was one such box on either side - the plans say to locate the chain box just aft of the engine box, which is located on the port side. I included two boxes on my 1:100 scale Bluenose, since it made sense to have one on each side for each anchor....but what is the consensus on this?

 

Anyway, this feature was constructed out of 5 pieces of 1/32" thick basswood cut to measure. The front and back of the box were installed on top of the base and then the sides added after - the inside faces of each strip were painted black prior to assembly and then the outside and edges finished white after.

 

The rudder was pretty easy - especially since I had already made them man years ago when I cut out the final versions of the keel pieces and bulkheads - this much have been back in 2016 or 2017!! Sheesh!! I was reading another modeller's log today and he was calling himself "lazy" for not treenailing his deck - but I bet he never waited 7 years to install a rudder!! 

 

Anyway, the rudder and stern post were made from 3/16" ply and needed only some minor adjustments to fit properly. The pintles and gudgeons were made using 1/64" x 3/64" bras strip gently bent first around a 1/16" brass rod and then again around a scrap 3/16" piece of ply to get the rough shape. The short sections of 1/16" brass rod were glued to the pintles and gudgeons with CA and then attached to the rudder first. I installed the stern post onto the model and then the tiller extension was added - made from a 3/16" dowel and shaped accordingly. I masked off the rudder and painted the pintles and gudgeons before installing the rudder on the model - I felt that this would be far less messy than using the blackening agent I have or trying to paint them on the model.

 

Next I'll probably mount the model on a stand I made about a year and a half ago and then finally move onto the windlass and other works at the bow....this, along with the scrollwork and name plates as well as the chainplates & shroud deadeyes will see the hull more or less complete! Then I think I will return to my Bellona build for a while and let Bluenose rest before moving onto the masting....

 

In the meanwhile, enjoy the photos and happy modelling

hamilton

[hamilton]

So there are a couple of things to update on here. First is that I've started on the dorys, in a deviation from work on the windlass and other fore deck features. This is because, second, I've bought a Proxxon wood lathe and am waiting for its delivery to continue on the windlass, etc. I have had my eye on the miniature wood lathe for a while as an entry-level tool to practice on - I should have it in hand within the next ten days or so (I hope).

 

In the meantime, I used the plans to make the dory-building jig and the elements of one dory hull. This is as far as I was able to get today, unfortunately and things have picked up now at work as well for the next few weeks, so I'm thinking that progress will return to its more typical snail's pace for a while. I'm happy, though, to have the modelling bitt between my teeth again - it feels great after a long period of irregular work at the bench since summer 2017! There is something to be said for a lengthy break to re-awaken the zest for even the more tedious of jobs! In any case, happy modelling all and enjoy the photos

hamilton

 

[gjdale]

2 hours ago, hamilton said:

I have had my eye on the miniature wood lathe for a while as an entry-level tool

 

I think you mean "gateway drug" Hamilton. Beware, these things are extremely addictive! Before you know it you'll be mainlining with a Mill as well.

[hamilton]

Haha! Ship modelling has made me rethink all my criticisms of the "slippery slope" argument.....

[hamilton]

Hello again:

 

It has been a very busy month of May at work, and I have had very little time at the bench until quite recently. Over the last several days I've made a bit more progress on the works at the bow of Bluenose. I think I've figured out a process for the windlass - a kind of bread & butter approach that I've seen other modellers try - I'll give it a go in any case. I purchased some small brass gears for this purpose and even though they're not precisely to proper shape and a little bit off scale, I will make do. I've used one for the jumbo job boom crutch gears and you can judge for yourself how it looks.

 

So far the jumbo jib crutch is the only part of these bow works that is complete - I have start on making up the bread and butter parts for the windlass and also for the little gear mechanism that sits between the jumbo jib crutch and the windlass - sorry I don't have the proper names of these things at hand! And it's been an exhausting week if I'm being honest....feel like a vacation of some kind is in order but I can't see one on the horizon yet....not until late July! Arghh...till then I'll have to catch as catch can.....hope you are all having a restful time and a peaceful life! I'll join you there someday!!

hamilton

 

 

[hamilton]

Hello again

 

I should have mentioned that after starting on the dory's I have taken a pause - I built a jig following the drawings on the plans, but this contraption seems very difficult to actually use and I'm contemplating another type of building jig for an upside-down construction that I think (or hope!) will work better....

 

In any case today I managed to put in a nice session at the bench working on the windlass. I've been using a bread-and-butter method of building it up in sections using both 3/32" and 1/32" basswood sheeting to cut rounds of 11mm and 9mm - these are then veneered together along with the gears interspersed between them to form the central element. I used PVA for gluing up the wood elements and epoxy for attaching the gears to the wood. 

 

The two drums were made from 1/4" dowel, tapered as well as possible in the drill chuck. These were 3/8" long each with a 3/32" extension for fitting into the knees, which I also took a stab at. I got the main parts of the knees completed easily enough, but the smaller front part that clamps over the windlass onto the other part I was having trouble with. I will give this another go tomorrow. As it stands, the main part of the windlass is done. The photos below show it in its current state, with the main portion of knees attached already and dry fit on the deck. It's a little big, but I can live with that - It's also a little janky looking, but I can live with that too! 

 

Enjoy the photos and happy modelling to all.

hamilton

[hamilton]

Just a quick post to show the completion of the windlass, anchor winch, etc. - I still have to fabricate and install the knees on the jumbo jib crutch and add some other minor details, but it's nice to have the bulk of this work done! The hull will be complete soon, which means I'll be taking a break from Bluenose and returning to the HMS Bellona.....in the meantime, enjoy the photos.

hamilton

[hamilton]

Hello again:

 

It's been a while since I updated here, but work has progressed on the Bluenose - albeit somewhat more slowly....since the last post, I've more or less finished the hull - with the dorys and nameplates/scrollwork still to be figured out....to be honest I'm delaying these....

 

I added some barrels on a rack forward of the cabin, completed the bowsprit rigging installed the lower shroud chainplates & deadeyes & started on the lower masts and topmasts (they are dry fit in the photos below). I also set up the anchors - though I know these are not really accurate! I had to make do with what I had to hand or what was available locally - no scale chain that I could find so I substituted some hemp rope, and the anchors I sourced at my local hobby store are both slightly out of scale (on the large side) and not proper to what was carried on Bluenose....but, I'm going to forgive myself for these lapses and hope you will do the same!

 

Work is kicking in again pretty quick and we're heading off to our country retreat on the 17th, but I hope to make more progress on the masts and spars before we go - after studying the rigging a bit it is definitely going to be more complicated than I initially thought - many elements to keep in mind and plan for as the masts and spars come together - but this is actually part of the modelling process that I really enjoy, so I'm looking forward to getting into it.

 

Enjoy the photos and bye for now

hamilton

[GGibson]

It all looks great, Hamilton! Will definitely be looking back on this build log when I get to the stages you have covered.  Appreciate you sharing! 

[hamilton]

Well - looks like page 7 is even more insane than page 6 was.....hopefully we can get to page 8 and lighten the scrolling a bit....

 

In any case this is just a small progress report - I've made the fore boom saddle and started to fabricate mast hoops - these are supposed to be wooden, but since I've already jumped the shark with the anchors I feel more justified in deviating here, as well, for the sake of "modeller's convenience"....ample quantities of 1/16" brass rod make the approach shown below a little more reasonable for me - though I will need to get some new nippers to cut through these!!

 

The boom saddles (main and fore) were constructed using 3/32" material from old model shipways laser cut billets. I traced the end of a 5/16" dowel on the material and then marked its centre with a compass point. I then drilled out the centre using progressively larger drill bitts and did the final bit of interior sizing using some needle files. I then drew a concentric circle about 3/32" out from the inside opening, marked out the belaying pin locations, drilled those and the rough cut out the piece, doing some final shaping with a sanding block. I lined the outside with some 1/16" pinstripe tape, added some blackened belaying pins and installed it on the mast with some small chocks as noted on the plans. I used pinstripe tape and some slightly modified eyebolts for where the foreboom attaches to the mast - I'm sorry but I'm away from the plans and cannot remember the official name for this!!

 

In any case, here are the photos - enjoy and bye for now

hamilton

 

[hamilton]

And here are the finished results with the mast hoops - now just need to detail the masts before mounting and adding standing rigging...things seem to be progressing....

hamilton

[hamilton]

Hello again:

 

In a burst of activity today I managed to outfit the fore mast and fore topmast - they are now assembled as a single structure, but not yet installed on the model. I'll wait to do this until I've finished outfitting the main mast and topmast and I'm ready to begin the rigging, though some rigging elements (the spreader lifts and ratlines) will be installed first. The process was mostly trouble free, though the results are a little wonky....I've been trying a new blackening agent that is not very good - so the pieces look...well more rusted than anything...I may try to dab some black paint on them to tone them down a bit but we'll see....I don't know why the new blackening agent I was using today ended up flaking so badly - I bathed the brass in acetone and rinsed with water before blackening and then tried just putting them straight in the blackening solution, but in both cases the results were equally poor....I may try diluting the blackening liquid more to see if that helps, but honestly I'm at a loss....the old Blacken-It (no longer available in Canada) is sorely missed!!! Any tips from pros out there would be appreciated. 

 

Enjoy the photos and bye for now

hamilton

[MikeR]

Hamilton

It looks like you are doing a great job on the Bluenose, it is one of my favorite models.  The three blocks you have fixed on the foremast I think are upside down.  The hole for the rope should be on the top of the block closer to the mast so that the rope passes over the sheave.

Mike

[allanyed]

On 8/12/2023 at 6:34 AM, MikeR said:

The three blocks you have fixed on the foremast I think are upside down. 

I agree, they are on backwards.  Also, the Bluenose had internally stropped blocks.   These are available from Syren if you don't want to make your own.

Allan

 

[hamilton]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions guys, but I do this for fun, and will go my own way on this one. I appreciate and admire those with the technical skill, money and time to achieve at the high level you guys do, but this is my hobby and I seek relaxation and quiet enjoyment in it. And since I'm under no obligation either to keep anyone on board this boat safe or pass a bar of historical or technical accuracy, I'll leave these as they are and move along.

 

I do appreciate the comments, and if I ever come to build a model with an eye to technical and historical accuracy, I will definitely make sure to rig my blocks correctly. Thanks again!

hamilton

[allanyed]

 

 

1 hour ago, hamilton said:

I do appreciate the comments

The entire response is well said Hamilton.   The rest of life takes a lot of work to succeed, a hobby has no such obligations yet can still provide pleasure.

Allan

 

 

 

Edited August 14, 2023 by allanyed

[allanyed]

On 8/14/2023 at 12:06 PM, hamilton said:

I do this for fun,

For more fun, if you have not already seen it, a fun few hours is watching the 1937 version of Captains Courageous.  I watched it several days ago and while I thought I had seen it before, it was pretty much all new for me.  Great scenes on board the Henrietta, a Grand Banks fishing schooner which was used in the filming of the movie.  Following your build log and watching this movie has me wanting to build another fishing schooner model in the not too distant future😀

Allan

Edited September 3, 2023 by allanyed

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  I'm in full agreement with you, Hamilton.  The question to ask oneself is, "Am I having fun?", alternatively, "Is this project sustaining my interest?"  I like to use what's handy, or available without spending too much - the reason I bought some scribed basswood decking (for a smaller scale than your project) instead of trying to sweat doing tiny individual planks, although fiddling with infinitesimal details does 'float the boat' for some.  'Standard' quality blocks provided in most kits still can be worked a little by hand to improve their appearance, like enlarging the hole for the line a tad to make threading easier, and rounding the edges/profile a little by hand if they are not too tiny to begin with.

 

  'Love your Bluenose, and only wish I had the one my Dad made ca. 1950 ... I didn't see it among his estate items, so it may have been given by him to someone else along the way.