DocBlake Posted August 31, 2016 Share #1 Posted August 31, 2016 About 25 years ago, I bought a Dremel table saw, model 580-2. It largely saw in my basement gathering dust. I now own a Byrnes saw, but having the Dremel operating in addition could be very helpful. The saw runs great, but has 3 huge drawbacks. The fence is pure crap - hard to adjust, lots of wobble, totally unacceptable. Likewise, the miter gauge is cheap and inaccurate. Lastly, the blade plate has a huge opening, limiting the width of cuts that can be easily made. I found a source on Ebay to buy an upgraded fence and miter gauge. I also purchased a sled that's dedicated to the saw. Serious upgrades for about $70 total! What I don't have is a close clearance blade plate (zero clearance insert), because they are sold out! My question is, does anyone have access to a close clearance blade plate, or plans to make one ? It would complete my refurbishing of what is still a pretty good saw. Here's a link to a website that shows the upgrades I purchased: http://www.theaerosmith.com/catalog_3.html ScottRC, EJ_L, mtaylor and 2 others 5 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted August 31, 2016 Share #2 Posted August 31, 2016 Dave, For the Byrne's Saw, the zero clearance insert is easy. Jim sells blank aluminum inserts that you install with the saw blade down. You slowly raise the blade and, viola!!!, zero clearance insert. The beauty is that you can make one for each blade size. I am sure you could do it with the Dremel as well if you can find or make the correct size blanks. I have also seen people use the appropriate thickness airplane model grade plywood. Canute, mtaylor, EJ_L and 2 others 5 Quote Chuck Seiler San Diego Ship Modelers Guild Nautical Research Guild Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section Completed: Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtdoramike Posted August 31, 2016 Share #3 Posted August 31, 2016 Yeah, I figured before reading your post that the saw was better than 20 years old because they stopped making them some time ago. I've been looking for one myself, but can't find one any where. A friend of mine had one and loved it, ut again, he made mods to it to make it acceptable to what he was doing with it. mike EJ_L, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grsjax Posted August 31, 2016 Share #4 Posted August 31, 2016 Yeah, I figured before reading your post that the saw was better than 20 years old because they stopped making them some time ago. I've been looking for one myself, but can't find one any where. A friend of mine had one and loved it, ut again, he made mods to it to make it acceptable to what he was doing with it. mike Keep checking ebay. They show up from time to time, sometimes are real low prices. EJ_L, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share #5 Posted September 2, 2016 I got the last close tolerance blade plate they had. $10!. Canute, mtaylor and EJ_L 3 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottRC Posted September 2, 2016 Share #6 Posted September 2, 2016 Glad I came across this thread for I just picked up one of these saws at a garage sale for $10 a few weeks ago. It was missing blades, the miter, and had about 25 years of dust on it but after cleaning it up, replacing a few missing nuts and a new power cord, it runs nice. I ended up using it a SKill 4" 44 tooth and a 4" riptide blade. Still pretty rough cutting for what I like to do. Also need a miter. I'll keep an eye out on ebay. Scott Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Current Builds: Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch Marine Models USF Essex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share #7 Posted September 2, 2016 Scott: Try this link!: http://www.ebay.com/sch/aclrails1965/m.html?item=251217683904&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7dbda5c0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 ScottRC and mtaylor 2 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottRC Posted September 2, 2016 Share #8 Posted September 2, 2016 Thanks Doc for the link. I think I got what I needed. Scott mtaylor 1 Quote Current Builds: Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch Marine Models USF Essex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Blarney Posted September 3, 2016 Share #9 Posted September 3, 2016 Try making a plate from model plywood from Midwest Products. The 1/8" plywood is surprisingly strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlocked123 Posted September 3, 2016 Share #10 Posted September 3, 2016 (edited) Dave, I made all the same upgrades to my Dremel 580. But I also got the no slip belt and geared pulley wheels from Bill. Get a set if he has any left. I've yet to have the saw bog down with these in place even sawing though 3/4" Cherry (though I am cognizant of the saw's limitations). One more thing I did was to add a strip of thin aluminum to fence from before the rear of the blade forward. It serves two purposes. Since the fence upgrade is made of stock slightly rounded on the corners, I've had problems with very thin stock trying to slip between the fence and the table. The aluminum strip is flush with the table. Also since it stops before the rear edge of the blade, it tends to minimize chances of kick back. Best, John Edited September 3, 2016 by Landlocked123 Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Member: Connecticut Marine Model Society Nautical Research Guild Model Ship World "So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby "If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocBlake Posted September 3, 2016 Author Share #11 Posted September 3, 2016 Thanks, John! The fence problem was a huge one with the stock fence. Even 1/32" stock wanted to "slip under" the fence. I'll install the aluminum strip. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Dave Click on images in posts to view them in full resolution! Click on the builds below and link to the log. Current Builds: -Gaff-Rigged Sloop, 1/4 Scale (3" = 1') -Chapman Water Hoy 1768 by DocBlake - Scratch Build - 1:48 scale -Hannah - 1:32 scale, Scratch-Built Plank-on-Frame Admiralty style -Generic Sharpie by DocBlake. 3/4" = 1' scale. NRG plans. -Fair American 1780 by DocBlake - Lauck Street Shipyard - 1/48 scale - POF -Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale -HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale Completed Builds: -Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 Cross Section - 1:32 Scale Scratch Build -British Capstan circa 1777 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:16 Scale -HMS Blandford - Cross Section - Scratch Build -1/32 Scale -17th Century Battle Station by DocBlake - HMS Mordaunt - 1:32 -17th Century Naval Cannon - 1:12 Scale -Royal Navy Ship of the Line Cross Section by DocBlake - (Mamoli's "Constitution") - 1:93 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768, 1/48 scale. -Virginia Pilot Boat "Swift", 1805, 1/50 scale -18th Century Naval Battle Station, 1/24 scale -Armed Virginia Sloop 1768 "Patrick Henry", 1/32 scale, Lauck Street Shipyard, POF, Admiralty Style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reklein Posted September 3, 2016 Share #12 Posted September 3, 2016 I made a close clearance throat plate for my Dremel from a piece of the correct gauge aluminum and raised the blade through it. Works great. Made a fence from some maple, A little fiddly but once set up it works good. I make custom miter gauges of wood for what ever angle I need. With small wood I usually do cutoff work with a NWSL chopper. Bill PS i have throat plates made of plywood for my 10 in Rigid table saw. Canute, mtaylor and DocBlake 3 Quote Bill, in Idaho Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015 Next Model Shipways Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeler12 Posted September 3, 2016 Share #13 Posted September 3, 2016 (edited) Try making a plate from model plywood from Midwest Products. The 1/8" plywood is surprisingly strong. I have used 1/8 plywood for several 'zero clearance' applications (9 inch Delta bandsaw, scroll saw, sander and now my Byrnes table saw). For the table saw inserts I cut the shape with the grain in the long direction. The Byrnes miter gauge fits on my Ryobi sander by spacing the plywood as shown below. The plywood is held to the table with double back tape. All have worked like a charm. Edited September 4, 2016 by Modeler12 cristikc, DocBlake, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Jay Current build Cross Section USS Constitution http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/ Finished USS Constitution: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/ 'A picture is worth a . . . . .' More is better . . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaetan Bordeleau Posted September 4, 2016 Share #14 Posted September 4, 2016 The best upgrade bought for this saw accurate fence to .001'' by a taper sliding on the fence. I do not remember the name, bought this at least 25 years ago and I have always used carbide teeth blades. mtaylor, Canute and DocBlake 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlevine Posted September 4, 2016 Share #15 Posted September 4, 2016 It is called the Accurizer II and I have the same thing for my Dremel. It also came with a cross-piece for the back of the saw to stabilize the motor. I think it is still available for the MicroMark saw. Using this, the zero clearance plates and the toothed belt you have a very accurate machine powerful enough to rip 1/2" stock without any problem. If only the fence was taller... mtaylor, Canute, donfarr and 1 other 4 Quote Toni Chairman Nautical Research Guild Member Nautical Research and Model Society Member Midwest Model Shipwrights Current Builds: Utrecht-1742 Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale Half Hull Planking Project Capstan Project Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale Echo Cross Section NRG Rigging Project Utrecht-1742 Gallery: Hannah - 1:36 scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted September 5, 2016 Share #16 Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) The Accurizer is still available: http://www.micromark.com/accuriser-ii,7504.html As for a higher fence, I don't know if this will help... but MicroMark does sell a "taller fence" that fits over the existing fence. It will fit a fence that's about 3/4" wide and 5/8" high. Have a look here: http://www.micromark.com/Featherboard-and-High-Fence-Attachment-Set-or-80463-MicroLux-Tilting-Arbor-Table-Saw,7586.html I have one that I cut down such that it only goes to the leading edge of the blade to reduce kickback. Here's pics of how I use mine: Edited September 5, 2016 by mtaylor Canute, DocBlake, Tadeusz43 and 1 other 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlocked123 Posted September 5, 2016 Share #17 Posted September 5, 2016 Toni/Mark Do you guys have any idea if the accuriser II (which MM says are for its own saw only) will fit on the Dremel? Thanks. Best, John mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Member: Connecticut Marine Model Society Nautical Research Guild Model Ship World "So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby "If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted September 6, 2016 Share #18 Posted September 6, 2016 No clue here, John. I saw Toni's post and she mentioned the need for a higher fence. Canute 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlevine Posted September 7, 2016 Share #19 Posted September 7, 2016 I would doubt it because when I bought it from the vendor there were two models available, one for the Dremel and the other for the MicroMark. I am sure the thickness and length of the table is different on the two saws. Canute, Landlocked123 and mtaylor 3 Quote Toni Chairman Nautical Research Guild Member Nautical Research and Model Society Member Midwest Model Shipwrights Current Builds: Utrecht-1742 Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale Half Hull Planking Project Capstan Project Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale Echo Cross Section NRG Rigging Project Utrecht-1742 Gallery: Hannah - 1:36 scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponto Posted September 7, 2016 Share #20 Posted September 7, 2016 Does anyone know if the MicroMark brand saw and the Proxxon FET models are comparable ... ie. I opted for the Proxxon awhile back and wonder if the accessories offered for the MicroMark would work with the Proxxon model?? JP Canute 1 Quote Built & De-Commissioned: HMS Endeavour (Corel), HMS Unicorn (Corel), Abandoned: HMS Bounty (AL) Completed : Wappen Von Hamburg (Corel), Le Renommee (Euromodel)... on hold Current WIP: Berlin by Corel On Shelf: HMS Bounty (Billings), Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Garnish Posted January 13, 2017 Share #21 Posted January 13, 2017 Looking at Mark's photo of the MicroMark, it appears to me that the Proxxon is for all practical purposes identical. This is my Proxxon, to which I have added a micrometer-adjustable fence. I find it will cut pretty consistently to +/- 0.003". John Canute, mtaylor, Tadeusz43 and 1 other 4 Quote John Past Builds: Diorama, Washington & Philadelphia - 1776. 1:144 scale scratch build Sir Edward Hawke - Schooner, 1776. 1:72 scale scratch build from H Hahn plans Matthew - 1497. 1:25 scale scratch build from Colin Mudie plans Mediterranean Cog - 1343. 1:40 scale scratch build from Xavier Pastor plans Nonsuch - 1650. 1:32 scale Aeropiccola kit Caustic - gunboat, 1776 . 1:36 scale scratch build Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 14, 2017 Share #22 Posted January 14, 2017 The MicroMark is a licensed copy of the Proxxon. So.... they should (operative word... should) be the same. davyboy and Canute 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANYAN Posted January 14, 2017 Share #23 Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) JP, I purchased the MM feather boards for use with my Jim Byrnes say. The bars were not the right fit for the mitre slots so I simply replaced the bars (can't think of the correct term at the moment) from some spares I had. You could easily make them from hardwood, add a little wax for slide, install a bolt from underneath in a countersunk hole(s), at the appropriate point(s) so that it clears the top of the featherboard, and then add a washer and wing nut (the botlt etc from the MM featherboard can be utilised for this) - Voila As the feather boards have a slot pre-cut, this makes them easy to adapt to other mitre slot bars. If, like me you have a spare, unused or another bar from something you can sacrifice, the job is already done and you will have something that precisely fits your mitre slots.. cheers Pat Edited January 14, 2017 by BANYAN Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch) Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350) Built: Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlocked123 Posted January 18, 2017 Share #24 Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) Hi All, Yesterday I made a MAJOR improvement to my Dremel 580. I installed the dust cover and vacuum port which includes a "lock-down" for the rear of the motor assembly (see pic.) below. It made a huge difference in the performance of the saw. After install, as a test, I was able to rip a 3/32nd" board out of a 3/4"x24"x4" piece of walnut and it measured out +/- 0.005". I started out slightly thicker and after a pass or two on my Byrnes thickness planer it was perfect. I'm pretty confident that I can get down 1/32" with a little practice. It's not a Byrnes Saw, but with Bill Wilson's add-ons, I'm all in at less than $150. When I do finally step-up to a Byrnes Saw, I will keep the Dremel for no other reason that one can adjust the angle of the blade. Best, John http://www.ebay.com/itm/DREMEL-580-TABLE-SAW-BACK-DUST-PLATE-W-BLADE-LOCK-/262810838186?hash=item3d30bf24aa:m:m18DMfN-8PCCfRd1-lx4vNg Edited January 18, 2017 by Landlocked123 Canute 1 Quote Member: Connecticut Marine Model Society Nautical Research Guild Model Ship World "So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby "If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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