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Dremel saw refit


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About 25 years ago, I bought a Dremel table saw, model 580-2.  It largely saw in my basement gathering dust.  I now own a Byrnes saw, but having the Dremel operating in addition could be very helpful.  The saw runs great, but has 3 huge drawbacks.  The fence is pure crap - hard to adjust, lots of wobble, totally unacceptable.  Likewise, the miter gauge is cheap and inaccurate.  Lastly, the blade plate has a huge opening, limiting the width of cuts that can be easily made.  I found  a source on Ebay to buy an upgraded fence and miter gauge.  I also purchased a sled that's dedicated to the saw.  Serious upgrades for about $70 total!  What I don't have is a close clearance blade plate (zero clearance insert), because they are sold out! 

 

My question is, does anyone have access to a close clearance blade plate, or plans to make one ?  It would complete my refurbishing of what is still a pretty good saw.  Here's a link to a website that shows the upgrades I purchased:

 

http://www.theaerosmith.com/catalog_3.html

 

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Dave,

    For the Byrne's Saw, the zero clearance insert is easy.  Jim sells blank aluminum inserts that you install with the saw blade down.  You slowly raise the blade and, viola!!!, zero clearance insert.  The beauty is that you can make one for each blade size.  I am sure you could do it with the Dremel as well if you can find or make the correct size blanks.  I have also seen people use the appropriate thickness airplane model grade plywood. 

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Yeah, I figured before reading your post that the saw was better than 20 years old because they stopped making them some time ago. I've been looking for one myself, but can't find one any where. A friend of mine had one and loved it, ut again, he made mods to it to make it acceptable to what he was doing with it.

 

 

mike

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Yeah, I figured before reading your post that the saw was better than 20 years old because they stopped making them some time ago. I've been looking for one myself, but can't find one any where. A friend of mine had one and loved it, ut again, he made mods to it to make it acceptable to what he was doing with it.

 

 

mike

Keep checking ebay.  They show up from time to time, sometimes are real low prices.

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Glad I came across this thread for I just picked up one of these saws at a garage sale for $10 a few weeks ago.  It was missing blades, the miter, and had about 25 years of dust on it but after cleaning it up, replacing a few missing nuts and a new power cord, it runs nice.   I ended up using it a SKill 4" 44 tooth and a 4" riptide blade.  Still pretty rough cutting for what I like to do. Also need a miter.  I'll keep an eye out on ebay.  

 

Scott

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Dave,

 

I made all the same upgrades to my Dremel 580. But I also got the no slip belt and geared pulley wheels from Bill. Get a set if he has any left. I've yet to have the saw bog down with these in place even sawing though 3/4" Cherry (though I am cognizant of the saw's limitations). One more thing I did was to add a strip of thin aluminum to fence from before the rear of the blade forward. It serves two purposes. Since the fence upgrade is made of stock slightly rounded on the corners, I've had problems with very thin stock trying to slip between the fence and the table. The aluminum strip is flush with the table. Also since it stops before the rear edge of the blade, it tends to minimize chances of kick back.

 

Best,

John

Edited by Landlocked123
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I made a close clearance throat plate for my Dremel from a piece of the correct gauge aluminum and raised the blade through it. Works great. Made a fence from some maple, A little fiddly but once set up it works good. I make custom miter gauges of wood for what ever angle I need. With small wood I usually do cutoff work with a NWSL chopper.  Bill  PS i have throat plates made of plywood for my 10 in Rigid table saw.

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Try making a plate from model plywood from Midwest Products.  The 1/8" plywood is surprisingly strong.

I have used 1/8 plywood for several 'zero clearance' applications (9 inch Delta bandsaw, scroll saw, sander and now my Byrnes table saw).

For the table saw inserts I cut the shape with the grain in the long direction. The Byrnes miter gauge fits on my Ryobi sander by spacing the plywood as shown below. The plywood is held to the table with double back tape. 

All have worked like a charm.

post-246-0-70163900-1472944325.jpg  post-246-0-88159000-1472943951.jpg

Edited by Modeler12
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It is called the Accurizer II and I have the same thing for my Dremel.  It also came with a cross-piece for the back of the saw to stabilize the motor.  I think it is still available for the MicroMark saw.  Using this, the zero clearance plates and the toothed belt you have a very accurate machine powerful enough to rip 1/2" stock without any problem.  If only the fence was taller...

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The Accurizer is still available:  http://www.micromark.com/accuriser-ii,7504.html

 

As for a higher fence, I don't know if this will help... but MicroMark does sell a "taller fence" that fits over the existing fence.  It will fit a fence that's about 3/4" wide and 5/8" high.

 

Have a look here:  http://www.micromark.com/Featherboard-and-High-Fence-Attachment-Set-or-80463-MicroLux-Tilting-Arbor-Table-Saw,7586.html

 

I have one that I cut down such that it only goes to the leading edge of the blade to reduce kickback.  Here's pics of how I use mine:

 

post-76-0-35125400-1473061536_thumb.jpg

 

post-76-0-96541100-1473061548_thumb.jpg

 

post-76-0-96778400-1473061589_thumb.jpg

Edited by mtaylor
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  • 4 months later...

JP, I purchased the MM feather boards for use with my Jim Byrnes say.  The bars were not the right fit for the mitre slots so I simply replaced the bars (can't think of the correct term at the moment) from some spares I had.  You could easily make them from hardwood, add a little wax for slide, install a bolt from underneath in a countersunk hole(s), at the appropriate point(s) so that it clears the top of the featherboard, and then add a washer and wing nut (the botlt etc from the MM featherboard can be utilised for this) - Voila :)  As the feather boards have a slot pre-cut, this makes them easy to adapt to other mitre slot bars.  If, like me you have a spare, unused or another bar from something you can sacrifice, the job is already done and you will have something that precisely fits your mitre slots..

 

cheers

 

Pat 

Edited by BANYAN
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Hi All,

 

Yesterday I made a MAJOR improvement to my Dremel 580. I installed the dust cover and vacuum port which includes a "lock-down" for the rear of the motor assembly (see pic.) below. It made a huge difference in the performance of the saw. After install, as a test, I was able to rip a 3/32nd" board out of a 3/4"x24"x4" piece of walnut and it measured out +/- 0.005". I started out slightly thicker and after a pass or two on my Byrnes thickness planer it was perfect. I'm pretty confident that I can get down 1/32" with a little practice. It's not a Byrnes Saw, but with Bill Wilson's add-ons, I'm all in at less than $150. When I do finally step-up to a Byrnes Saw, I will keep the Dremel for no other reason that one can adjust the angle of the blade.

 

Best,

John

 

post-18302-0-19346300-1484699789.jpeg

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DREMEL-580-TABLE-SAW-BACK-DUST-PLATE-W-BLADE-LOCK-/262810838186?hash=item3d30bf24aa:m:m18DMfN-8PCCfRd1-lx4vNg

Edited by Landlocked123
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