Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century

[G.L.]

Patrick, she looks beautiful. And your garden also.

 

 

[Baker]

Thanks,

But, it should rain a little bit more. It's very dry in the garden, which is not good for the grass and plants 

[luponero]

Congratulations Patrick, both for the model and for the garden, it should rain tomorrow at my house, so I can also transplant some cabbages in the vegetable garden.

 

luponero

[Halfdan]

Amazing build Patrick. The amount of detail is stunning! 

 

I hope I can ever achieve this level of craftsmanship! 

 

(Finally there will be some rain in the following days, my garden urgently needs water too!)   

[Baker]

While surfing for info on the hatches of the cannonports I found these 2 interesting sites (1 of which is a PDF).

 

http://www.theonrust.com/building-the-onrust1.html

https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/144580044.pdf

 

The PDF is very interesting about the channels, chains and deadeyes and is mainly about a Spanish wreck sunk in the mid-16th century off the coast of Florida

Of course now comes the question about the style to follow.
The channels with  chains

The channels with iron "bars" like the Vasa.

For now I continue to work on the hatches of the cannon ports. One  is "ready" as a prototype (How to build will follow later)

To be continued,

Thanks for following, likes and the nice comments

[mtaylor]

The solid bars like "Vasa" would have been used.  The other types that look like chains came much later.

[Baker]

I was actually hoping for comments like this on the channels/chains, thanks Mark.

 

Chains were certainly also in use in the 16th century. They have been found on at least 2 wrecks of Spanish ships (St Johns and San Juan) Both mid-16th century.

My Pelican sailed in the period between these Spanish ships and the Vasa. Presumably both methods can be used.

The Vasa iron bars look the easiest way to build.
The chains with will have to be "home made" 

 

Ps,

At the bottom of the text is written. "from wich they hold and secure twelve schrouds, wich are some sixty strand ropes".

Then each shroud would be made of 5 ropes  (60 divided by 12 ) . Correct??

 

 

 

 

[Baker]

 Hello,

 

Addet all the hatches of the cannon ports 

Building 

 

painted and addet metal pins, with these pins they are glued to the model with CA glue.

 

detailing

 

painted 

 

ropework, step 1

 

step 2,  "fishing" for the wire

 

Step 3, A knot. this way the top part of the rope can be tensioned later.

 

like this

 

Both sides are ready

 

And another error camouflaged 
I forgot the stern chasers  These were apparently very important in attack and defense at this time
2 dummy hatches are the camauflage  🙈🙉🙊

 

Thanks for following 

[G.L.]

Now she is ready for battle stations.

[Louie da fly]

16 hours ago, Backer said:

And another error camouflaged 
I forgot the stern chasers  These were apparently very important in attack and defense at this time
2 dummy hatches are the camauflage  🙈🙉🙊

Good save, Patrick!

 

[Baker]

On 6/19/2020 at 9:13 AM, G.L. said:

Now she is ready for battle stations.

Indeed, let opponent come
preferably along port and starboard, because maneuvering is not yet possible 

On 6/19/2020 at 1:10 PM, Louie da fly said:

Good save, Patrick!

 

Thanks 

 

Making the triangular deadeyes (Much work, little progress)

To the person who once invented the triangular deadeyes , rounds are much easier to make (I think this advice comes centuries late...)
Make these to scale,   with the grain of the wood in the longitudinal direction is not easy 
Much time has passed to find a way how to build them.

 

Examples are the Vasa and Mary Rose. The triangular deadeyes from this era look quite thin.

 

 

And determine the size.
A surplus of my Heller Soleyl Royal has about the right thickness height and length. The deadeyes (plastic) of Billing's Vasa are clearly too thick.

 

Building a wooden prototype and a mold

First saw wooden beams

 

Sand the wood to size so that it just goes through the mold.

File grooves

cutting this is fairly easy because it is in the same direction as the grain.

 

Sanding to thickness.

8 done 40 more to go.  Then drill the holes. That will also be a challenge.

 

Thanks for following, comments and likes

[Louie da fly]

I've found that drilling the holes before shaping (or at least before cutting the deadeyes apart) reduces the chance of splitting.

[Baker]

Yes, 

But,
I have to drill holes of 1mm and I don't have the right tools to drill holes of this diameter to enough depth
Therefore I will have to drill them one by one by hand.
If a few fail,  bad luck for Backer (there is plenty of wood availeble to make more)

[Louie da fly]

I know what you mean. Without a drill press it's not possible to get the holes perpendicular so that they line up with the outline of the deadeyes, and even with one it's probably pretty difficult without lining everything up perfectly. But even a few deadeyes at a time could be an advantage.  

 

I've hit the same problem - until I get my drill press set up I can't do that kind of thing. 

[G.L.]

Well done, Patrick! All the dead eyes have perfectly the same size.

[rkwz]

What kind of wood are you using for the deadeyes if I may ask, Patrick? Those triangular deadeyes look fantastic!

[Baker]

Thanks for comments and advice.

And the used wood is cherry

 

Something I learned here. Listen to good advice. So first i do a test whether the wood does not split during drilling.

First make an aluminum mold. The plates are glued with CA. (1 a hole was drilled incorrectly)

 

The test (careful drilling of course)

 

Hurray,  they don't split.

 

I set a watermark on my smartphone photos (Backer2020).
Why that thing also put Samsung on it is a mystery to me.

 

[Louie da fly]

Nice technique, Patrick.

[md1400cs]

Patrick,

 

Very nice work with deadeyes - look just perfect.

 

PS: re: Samsung it's on your screen as free advertising for them 😂

I believe, I'm sure you know -- that if you go into your settings, you can remove that Samsung watermark. Where in Settings is the question? 

I've been a Mac only fanatic for everything for Decades so maybe someone could post where to go into your phone settings to rid the "add"

 

Cheers,

 

 

[Halfdan]

Amazing job on the deadeyes Patrick! 

Your detailing is so thorough that people who are not into model ship building probably won't even notice it or value the amount of work put into it. 

 

Keep it up! 

 

 

 

 

[md1400cs]

29 minutes ago, Halfdan said:

Amazing job on the deadeyes Patrick! 

Your detailing is so thorough that people who are not into model ship building probably won't even notice it or value the amount of work put into it. 

 

Keep it up! 

 

 

 

 

Halfdan -- Very well said!

[Baker]

Thank you, thank you, thank you 👍

 

So no more photos with watermark. I have no idea how to do it without the Samsung logo and otherwise, this build will be a Samsung commercial.
And, i upload from the smartphone to the PC using dropbox. 
For some reason this was no longer possible. After hours of searching, it turned out that dropbox suddenly no longer had access to the photos on the smartphone.
Why?? another IT mystery for me.
But problem solved. 

Meanwhile, the deadeyes for the foremast and the mainmast are ready.  Made them in batches of 10. I had 6 "splitters" but repared them with CA glue.

 

Collored with thinned Tamiya paint and polished with scotchbrite  (48 ready and 2 scrap)

 

 

Thanks for comments, likes and following

[md1400cs]

Patrick,

Suggestion - I regret not adding these fiddly details to my last build - suggest that you, using a small drill bit edge (with a rotary tool) add these grooves - gently sliding drill bit on correct angle. It makes the spooled lanyards looked better scaled when seen from the sides once attached to deadeyes. IMO.

On my list - for sure for my current project. Your deadeyes look "big enough" that is should be fairly easy - though knowing your penchant for super detailing this project - it's probably already on your "to do" list.

 

Cheers,

[Baker]

Michael,

Thank you for the suggestion
 

I actually planned to do this.
But, this does not seem to have been in use  in the 16th century.
It is without this detail for the time being. But I can still add this.

 

My biggest problem will be, how to attach the deadeyes to the channels.

Judging by various drawings from differend ships these are not attached at all.

The masts will probably have to be placed first and then the chain, deadeye and schroud
 Complicated method ....

 

[Baker]

Continue with the deadeyes.

Started a topic in masting, rigging and sails first.

And, continued with the "ironwork" around the deadeyes and started the chains

 

Ironwork deadeyes, work in progress. 

this is not really the activity I enjoy doing most. Learned soldering at school a long time ago (Didn't like it then and still don't like it now 😂)

 

The chains.
Each chain consists of 3 links. For the time being 1 link will be added to each deadeye.
The length of each chain will be different. So most of the links will have a different length.

The deadeyes are in a groove in the side channel of the channel, they are not attached to the channel itself.

I will probably have to make the masts (lower part) first. Or temporarily fix the deadeyes with a wooden strip that will be removed later (dont now yet)

 

According to the dimensions of 1 archaeological find, the metal around the deadeye is slightly thinner in diameter than that of the chains. 

(The wire of my chain is 0.1mm too thick.)

 

 

 

Quality control on strength (looks good 👍)

 

Thanks for following

 

 

[Baker]

Because I'm a bit of a dead end with my deadeyes and chains. I'm going to build the masts first.
This is a completely different order from what I had in mind. So I first have to study and think about what and how.
And if I have to think, I build military models. For me, this goes on automatic pilot and meanwhile the ideas come up to build my masts.

 

Builds can be found in the shore leave category     https://modelshipworld.com/forum/73-non-shipcategorised-builds/

 

The only examples I find for the time being is the San Juan model and the Vasa.
There were one-piece masts and made masts. Somewhere I found that around 1600 in England there was no longer a suitable tree to make a one-piece mast.
Fortunately my model dates from before 1600 👍

Building the lower part of the fore and main masts.

Work in progress, so far so good. i  think.

 

Thanks for following

[Louie da fly]

Nice work, Patrick. Both on the deadeyes and chains, and the masts.

[G.L.]

Yes Patrick, indeed very nice work on the dead eyes and masts.

[Baker]

Thanks.
First the fore and the main mast will be made because they are similar.

Also discovered that this ship had no "crowsnests". But mast tops.
will be simple... : "looks like a large barrel" they write .... haha, dont think so

 

https://maryrose.org/blog/in-the-museum/museum-blogger/the-mary-rose-crow-s-nest/

 

[Louie da fly]

No, a fighting top doesn't look like a large barrel - a crow's nest does. 

 

Crow's nests were commonly used in whalers - the lookouts were stuck up there looking for whales in frigid conditions for hours and hours, so they needed some protection from the elements.

 

But search google for an image of a true crow's nest, and you won't find anything (I know - some months ago I was trying to sort out what a crow's nest really was and got no help from google at all.)